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22BR---Do I Need One?

Bully

Silver $$ Contributor
The 22BR has caught my eye. This will be a "next winter" project.

Who has one?
Do you like it?
What and how do you load for it (bullets/powders for speed, accuracy or both)?
What purpose does it fill for you?
What distances do you shoot it at and how does it do at those distances?

Thanks a ton. I'm looking forward to the responses.
 
My 22BR has a 1:7 twist. Is shoots 80 Nosler CC bullets under .500 at 350 yards. Running 31gr. RL17. I use it in our Balloon Shoot. It shoots well at 600 yards too.
 
I have one. Built it last year and really enjoy it,

Sako 75, 19 inch barrel, 1 in 10 Brux, Cerakoted graphite black, stacks them on top of each and it feeds flawlessly. I use it for a truck gun and a handy little varmint rifle and love it! I shoot 50 grain blitzkings.IMG_6135.JPG IMG_6136.JPG
 
Once my 22-250AI barrel goes out Im going 22 BR. 14 twist for berger 52gr!

varmint rig, and deer a lot of times, love head shots!
 
A 22BR found it's way into my hands a few years ago, and it is the reason I found my way to this forum. The cartridge was previously unknown to me, and anyone else I talked to in this area.

It is a late seventies vintage 40XBR, tight neck, with a 24X Leupold target scope. I had to learn how to find/modify/form brass for it -- Neck turning and reloading techniques that I'd never done in over forty years of reloading.

It's been a lot of fun, and a needed step in continuing my hobby.

002.JPG
 
Sooooooooooooooo...

I was betwixt and and between the 22BR and a 22x47Lapua and it seems that better barrel life and less powder to do what I want is pointing me to the 22BR.

Again, this is a winter 2018 project most likely but I like to plan ahead and get all my ducks in a row. I will be for sure listening in on this thread as the amount of knowledge on here is always humbling.

@jds holler I have been in touch with you previously for advice on 40x stocks. I have to say, I really like how you put a rifle together. That 22BR is gorgeous.
 
@jds holler I have been in touch with you previously for advice on 40x stocks. I have to say, I really like how you put a rifle together. That 22BR is gorgeous.

Bully, thank you for the compliment on my rifles, but I can't take credit for the way this one looks. It's pretty much the way it came from the custom shop.-- except for maybe that gawdawfull butt pad. It is the Light Varmint Model XBR with 20" barrel.

I would take redrockranger's advice and get the faster twist and Lapua chamber. It would make life easier, as well as bullet selection.

I've finally learned how to create good brass for mine, but it's an involved process. jd
 
Once my 22-250AI barrel goes out Im going 22 BR. 14 twist for berger 52gr!

varmint rig, and deer a lot of times, love head shots!

Have same setup with Shilen 14, first 1000 rounds, jagged hole. 2000 now and 1" groups. It is, arguably, an overbore so is to be expected. But those first months of shooting had me s******* in tall cotton.
 
I would be interested in selling my Cooper. Altought it is a shooter!!! The 53gr. V-max on top of 8208 powder has out done the test target ..2116A77A-B83F-420F-B3B8-6526FA1B9085.jpeg
 
The 22BR has caught my eye. This will be a "next winter" project.

Who has one?
Do you like it?
What and how do you load for it (bullets/powders for speed, accuracy or both)?
What purpose does it fill for you?
What distances do you shoot it at and how does it do at those distances?

Thanks a ton. I'm looking forward to the responses.

*************************************
With the right twist for the right distance, phenomenal. Built 14 twist 25" Shilen on trued Remington 700. As stated elsewhere, first 1000 rounds, a barely even jagged hole.

14 twist up to 55 grain manufacturer recommended but my best was with 52 Bergers. 53's, not quite as accurate for me. Others I know mostly shoot 8 twist up to 800 yards. That is the limit of my experiences in that regard.

You really need to know that overbores such as the .22br has a serious issue with carbon in the first few inches of the bore. If you do not address this frequently, your accuracy will fall off, seemingly inexplicably. At 2000 rounds, when I first discovered this, I removed the carbon and accuracy improved. But not much. That is, in my group's experience, the limit of expected accuracy, with 700 being more common. That is the nature of overbores: narrow neck, high velocity and pressure, etc.

I rethroated it but the rifling was past its prime so am now going to rebarrel with an 8 twist. Got bored with 100 yards anyway, and that's when to consider the 8 twist. Food for thought: if you go ahead with this build, you can expect real accuracy at 100 yards to ~300 yards (14 twist). Keep the carbon out ahead of the chamber and if you want to rethroat it, do so at the first sign of group deterioration.

If you go with an 8 twist, you can expect real accuracy, depending, of course, on bullet selection (100 to 800, best of both worlds, 14/8) . Sierra 80 MKs!, Berger 80 Target (different jacket than Varmint to stand up to velocities that often reach 3600-4000) fps.

My experience only:

Varget, was my favorite-temp tolerant, Extreme powder, a little too slow for .22, just right for my 6br., but still fair results and shoots in so many calibers, that is convenient.- If you go to heavier bullets in, say, an 8 twist, Varget is, IMO, ideal. Light bullet: H322, i.e.; Heavy bullets: Varget.

H322, really excellent in the .22br, .204. Hotter seems to be what the .22br needs. Experimentation should prove this out, but then I am talking about scrutinizing the results. Would discourage much fiddling with primer pockets and flash holes and be sure and get small decapper pins for Lapua cases. They may or may not ship with the die, depending upon policy and you need to ask beforehand.

Benchmark, one of Hodgdon's Extreme powders; similar result as H322, some use IMR (lot variances often) and Vihtavuori N135, expensive but accurate

Flat bottom bullets for under 300 yards. Boattails beyond. Flat bottoms leave less opportunity in production for variance, in that there are fewer angles to be formed.

Primers:
CCI 450s (shooters have their own favorites) gets you into magnum world so be aware it may vary what you need for loads, save a lot of money over Br4s though I shoot Br4s in my 6br, always. Br4s in this caliber are, IMO, unnecessary expense with questionable benefit.

My thoughts: 100 yard becomes less interesting once you have mastered the single hole pursuit. 14 twist. Competition shooters oftentimes shoot even slower twist for highest obtainable accuracy from a flat bottom bullet.

8 twist leaves your options open. Will shoot 100 out to 800, beyond...?
Load development is easy. 80 grain Sierra Matchking in twist really accurate

Brass, Lapua 6br:
Unsure what you know about .22br so:
Lapua 6br brass run through .22br die but preferably after running a mandrel through the neck first to stretch out and smooth before the next step of full length sizing.

There will be a bulge at the NSJ. Some ream the inside of the neck, some turn the bulge off just up to the NSJ, and some leave it, as long as it is below where your bullets seat. If you turn them and have them annealed via, for example AMP annealer, be sure and tell the annealer because the neck is thinner and requires a different code/heat.

Build:
Be aware that Lapua 6br brass has a small primer hole and small primer pocket-small rifle primers; because of these factors, you should get small (or turn your own) decap pins to accommodate Lapua holes;

I don't even know for sure if this is optional; have gunsmith turn down firing pin and bush to prevent gas escapement and primer deformation.

Lots more, please do ask if you wish.

"We're all in this together." (Red Green)

Best of luck. Keep us informed of your choice and progress.


"The closest thing we have in my hometown is a 300 pound Avon lady."
 

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