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Guard Screw Torque

hoz53

Gold $$ Contributor
I am wondering what people use for guard screw torque on rifles (R700 ect) I have done searches on this and come up with a variety of specs so i wonder what the thinking is here. Thanks
 
I like to tighten them just enough to keep them in place..
Never did use a torque wrench for that......
 
i have a wheeler torque wrench I use. I cant tighten stuff by hand or Ill strip the bolt or screw everytime, I over tighten everytime on accident... I set the wrench on 50 and tighten everything to that as it feels good and snug enough, and aint bad to take out when need be
 
i have a wheeler torque wrench I use. I cant tighten stuff by hand or Ill strip the bolt or screw everytime, I over tighten everytime on accident... I set the wrench on 50 and tighten everything to that as it feels good and snug enough, and aint bad to take out when need be
thanks
 
@hoz53

When you say guard screws, do you mean the action scews that also hold on a floor plate or trigger guard?
Or trigger guard screws that only hold it on to the stock (commonly only the front srew to a trigger guard)?

Myself use:
40 to 45-in/lbs for front action screws
25 to 30-in/lbs for rear action screws <> a wee bit more if its a heavy tang action
20 to 25-in/lbs for all others
 
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@hoz53

When you say guard screws, do you mean the action scews that also hold on a floor plate or trigger guard?
Or trigger guard screws that only hold it on to the stock (commonly only the front srew to a trigger guard)?

Myself use:
40 to 45-in/lbs for front action screws
25 to 30-in/lbs for rear action screws
20 to 25-in/lbs for all others
i was thinking of screws that hold the action in the stock. i should have been more specific. thanks for the info
 
Just curious. Why different torque on the front and rear?
Just my own 2-cents here:
The front of the action is typically more rigid then the rear, plus its closer to combustion, which also means a certain amount of expansion during combustion. For these reason, I torque it first and with more torque then the rear. At the other end, the rear-tang are typically less rigid in structure for one reason, but also if there are any imperfection under or along the action, or if there is any stock shifting that may occur, having less torque on this screw will help/aid against the possible bindings and/or bending of the action in its bolted down position. And gives the front screw, which should be the most secure, dominance in the alignment and hold down.
Donovan
 
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If you can see a change in groups or on the dial indicator with different torques I would be re-bedding.
I 100% agree ....
But the questions having been asked in general. Besides how many have actually checked there bedding? and how often is there fallow up inspections? Myself, even on my "stress-free pillar bedded" stocks, I still torque the front screw first, and with 10 or so in/lbs of dominance... just in case o_O
Donovan
 
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I 100% agree ....
But the questions having been asked in general. Besides how many have actually checked there bedding? and how often is there fallow up inspections? Myself, even on my "stress-free pillar bedded" stocks, I still torque the front screw first, and with 10 or so in/lbs of dominance... just in case o_O
Donovan
thanks donovan
 
I 100% agree ....
But the questions having been asked in general. Besides how many have actually checked there bedding? and how often is there fallow up inspections? Myself, even on my "stress-free pillar bedded" stocks, I still torque the front screw first, and with 10 or so in/lbs of dominance... just in case o_O
Donovan
I mean different torque numbers on a screw. If I saw a dial indicator move because of more torque, thats an issue. I also torque the front screw first. These days I put most in tight enough so they dont fall out, the glue holds the action in.
 

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