Bullet Pullers

[joshb]

If it floats, flies or wears a skirt, it's cheaper to rent.

 

[dickn52]

I have the RCBS and had to pull about 150 .308 rounds once. I sold my rifle and refused to sell 'reloads' to anyone. So I took them apart and sold the components. Primed brass and bullets. I may have scratched 2 or 3 bullets beyond use.

 

[BoydAllen]

I have an RCBS collet type puller but I believe that the Hornady collet puller is a better design if you have a lot of bullets to pull. On the inertial puller you might try this. I have a plastic headed mallet that has a head that is about 2" in diameter. Its head weighs about what the head of an inertial puller does with a loaded round in place. With one in each hand I snap them together in front of me, using a flick of the wrist to maximize head speeds. This works very well and saves me from having to find something to pound on. The trick is to start the swings with the handles grasped with just ones thumbs and index fingers and then close the hands on the handles near the end. What you don't want to do is to lock up your wrists and swing like you are trying to drive a nail. That slows your head speed down and imparts more shock to your joints.

 

[LarryDScott]

I just purchase the grip and pull. It works fine
on lightly seated bullets, but I wouldn't want to
use it for a large quantity of old stuff that would
require a lot of hand tiring hard grip. LDS

 

[Brians356]

I have a plastic headed mallet that has a head that is about 2" in diameter. Its head weighs about what the head of an inertial puller does with a loaded round in place. With one in each hand I snap them together in front of me, using a flick of the wrist to maximize head speeds. This works very well and saves me from having to find something to pound on.

Reminds me of an "opposed-piston" diesel engine:


-

 

[dickn52]

Reminds me of an "opposed-piston" diesel engine:

View attachment 1016499
-

Wankle????

 

[M-61]

Uh ... not so much.
-

Not even a 'little' bit the same. WANKEL is a rotary eccentric piston engine. They both do produce power but in a different fashion.

 

[dickn52]

Ya think?

Obviously you gear heads know a lot more about this stuff than me. And I know it.

 

[M-61]

Ya think?

PS

I missed your "piston" earlier. Actually, a Wankel is a rotary pistonless design.

The rotary piston engine was common in WW I aircraft, the familiar examples being the Sopwith Camel and Fokker Dr.1 Triplane.
-

Yes, I think the "piston" may be correctly called an eccentric rotor with 3 power strokes per revolution. (stroke is the wrong word....maybe impulse is better?) Never worked on them and find them sort of odd.
Your animation brings to mind WWI & WWII submarines which I think had that design engine in some boats. Maybe there is a site member who knows of this?

 

[Homerange]

Wankle????

TS3 engine that was used in UK Commer trucks.........not much else that I'm aware of.

The rotary piston engine was common in WW I aircraft, the familiar examples being the Sopwith Camel and Fokker Dr.1 Triplane.
-

Known as a Radial engine of which can be single or multi row, usually a max of 9 cyl per bank/row.

 

[hogpatrol]

 

[M-61]

TS3 engine that was used in UK Commer trucks.........not much else that I'm aware of.

Known as a Radial engine of which can be single or multi row, usually a max of 9 cyl per bank/row.

Rotary aircraft engines (WWI era) have their cylinders arranged radially BUT the entire engine rotates around a stationary crankshaft. Certainly interesting to see in operation to say the least! This would be a rotary engine (as mentioned above Camel's etc.) not a radial engine.

 

[onelastshot]

Back on topic, I had a couple dozen 270 rounds that were not marked; in short I had no idea what the bullet weight or the charge was. Broke them down and after identifying the bullet and weight, I reloaded them with a mild charge that I can use for sighting in. In stead of wasting more than a box of shells I now have cartridges that I can put to use. The bullet puller has paid for itself several times over.

 

[dickn52]

Back on topic, I had a couple dozen 270 rounds that were not marked; in short I had no idea what the bullet weight or the charge was. Broke them down and after identifying the bullet and weight, I reloaded them with a mild charge that I can use for sighting in. In stead of wasting more than a box of shells I now have cartridges that I can put to use. The bullet puller has paid for itself several times over.

My exact happening sort of. I pulled my reloads, weighed the bullets, dumped the powder in the lawn for fertilizer and sold the never fired .308 Lapua primed brass. Got all my money back as I recall.

 

[jimmymac]

THIS THREAD HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Ya think? 4 pages dedicated to the use of a kinetic bullet puller was about 3 1/2 too many.

 

[DRNewcomb]

.....Your animation brings to mind WWI & WWII submarines which I think had that design engine in some boats. Maybe there is a site member who knows of this?

Many (if not all) US WWII subs used Fairbanks-Morse diesel engines, which had two crankshafts and two opposed pistons per cylinder. The "valves" were in the cylinder walls. The engine was effectively two-stroke and relied on its supercharger to flush the burned gases from the cylinders on each stroke.

 

[Joe R]

I don't pull many either and i did buy a grip and pull. Only bad thing about the grip and pull is it really damages the bullet jacket. Pretty much wasting the bullet. The other side is I've broken a few impact pullers as well. They do keep the bullets in usable condition but if used often enough will break. Haven't tried a press style puller yet. It will be my next consideration. I do like the grip and pull for quick and easy use.

I know one thing for sure, if you can't pull the bullet without damaging it, you have way too much neck tension. It is my experience that any round with more than 30-50 lbs. of seating pressure don't do as well as those with less neck tension. That range of seating pressure allows me to easily disassemble rounds without damaging anything. YMMV.

I do pull quite a few bullets. During load development I usually load 50 of three separate charges really long and then adjust the seating depth, at the range, as I go with a Wilson seating die and a harbor press. Invariably one of those charges turns out better that the other two, so I end up focusing my testing on that charge. Consequently I am left with about 80-90 rounds that need to be disassembled. That's a 10-20 minute job for me using my Hornady collet puller. This process save me time because I only need to make one trip to the range.

Regards,

Joe

 

[284winner]

I know one thing for sure, if you can't pull the bullet without damaging it, you have way too much neck tension. It is my experience that any round with more than 30-50 lbs. of seating pressure don't do as well as those with less neck tension. That range of seating pressure allows me to easily disassemble rounds without damaging anything. YMMV.

I do pull quite a few bullets. During load development I usually load 50 of three separate charges really long and then adjust the seating depth, at the range, as I go with a Wilson seating die and a harbor press. Invariably one of those charges turns out better that the other two, so I end up focusing my testing on that charge. Consequently I am left with about 80-90 rounds that need to be disassembled. That's a 10-20 minute job for me using my Hornady collet puller. This process save me time because I only need to make one trip to the range.

Regards,

Joe

Thanks for the tip. I'll look into that possibility. Does not seem to be causing any other issues besides marring the bullets jacket. It's necessary to have alot of neck tension on some of my AR rounds, otherwise when feeding from the mags, many times the bullets push back into the cartridge.

 

[ireload2]

Since you did not understand the inertia bullet puller at first sight your understanding of loading die function is also suspect. Don't blame RCBS if you have having problems with their dies. It sounds like you need a lot more experience with all things related to handloading.

Just remember that when you pull some mickey mouse .22 caliber or 6mm bullet you need extra high velocity with the hammer to pull those dinky bullets because the weigh very little.
A 500 grain 45 caliber rifle bullet takes nothing to pull- just a light snap of the wrist.

Don't apologize, you were the only person to adequately explain how the process works, I was doing everything ass backwards until you provided a detailed explanation of the process. I've decided after going through this obnoxious process that I'm not going to try to save $4-$5 dollars to get to the result I'm seeking. In short, the compromised brass is going to get thrown out and I'm going to return the RCBS dies and spend the extra $25.00 for the Redding dies. RCBS may be 1st in service, they do whatever it takes to make a customer happy; I'd rather spend the extra $$$, get the Redding Dies and not have to rely on service to work out the problems. Reloading for me is a hobby, a pastime that I want to enjoy. I don't reload to save $$$. I reload because I enjoy the exercise and strive to develop loads that are far superior to what I can buy off the shelf. I'm not going to spend afternoons reloading where it's an exercise in frustration. I want to enjoy what I'm doing. Even if I spend twice the money buying the best reloading equipment because at the end of the day, I'll still be saving money as opposed to buying custom ammunition.

I want to achieve the best possible accuracy I can for each of the half dozen rifles I shoot for mid-sized game animals. I don't want to pay someone else to develop loads I'm fully capable of developing on my own. The key difference id that I don't want to compromise on equipment to achieve the results I desire. At the end of the day, spending an extra 20-25% for purchasing foolproof equipment is criminal when you realize all of the time wasted attempting to correct compromised tools when a little bit of research would have enlightened you to the shortcomings you've exposed yourself to.

I guess what I'm trying to say is cry once, buy once, get the best and save yourself hours of frustration attempting to achieve results that are basic standards that no one should accept less than. I'm not going to achieve sub MOA at 3,200 feet per second with my 6.5-284 unless I get RL17 with 130grn Swift A Frames to work flawlessly together. It's much better than H4350, you just have to take the time to develop the loads. RL 17 is one of the most underrated powders available today, especially with high end and magnum loads.

 

[Brians356]

4 pages dedicated to the use of a kinetic bullet puller was about 3 1/2 too many.

Yet you're still here.
-