• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

20 Practical Pre Fit or???

Prose

Silver $$ Contributor
My dad finally shot out his factory 700 Sendero .223 after more than 10,000 rounds fired.

I've convinced him that a 20 practical is in order. No additional cost for brass and dies, now we just need to find a barrel.

26" Sendero Contour 11". What is the absolute most economical way of replacing with minimal machining? CM or SS I don't care.
 
Got a Criterion prefit this year used from a member from this site shoot's .250 at 100yds and shot PD's out to 325 yds excellent barrel
 
I also will recommend a Criterion prefit from Northland Shooter Supply. I have bought three prefit barrels from Northland, one is a 20 Vartarg Remage that went on an XP action. I have shot it for five years and love it. The other two are a 20 Practical which I bought sometime last year, very good barrel and a Shilen prefit in 221 Fireball that I will be shooting dogs with in two weeks. Northland is good people and the barrels are excellent IME.

Rick
 
My dad finally shot out his factory 700 Sendero .223 after more than 10,000 rounds fired.

I've convinced him that a 20 practical is in order. No additional cost for brass and dies, now we just need to find a barrel.

26" Sendero Contour 11". What is the absolute most economical way of replacing with minimal machining? CM or SS I don't care.
+1 for CBI they are nice
 
You might consider a PacNor barrel too as they have pre-fit barrels that can go on your remington action.
I own both Criterion and PacNor barrels and they both shoot very well. Just giving ya some more idea's.;):)
 
Something to keep in mind, unless you plan on doing multiple home re-barrel jobs, by the time you purchase all the necessary tools to do a Remage aka Remington/Savage conversion you'll probably have more into it than if you'd just paid a gunsmith to chamber and fit a new barrel for you. AND, if you do the work yourself and for any reason you can't seem to get it to shoot or things didn't turn out quite right, you don't have anyone to take it back to but yourself. I'm certainly not saying it's rocket science to do a home Remage barrel job but "stuff" happens.

IMO, if you plan to do multiple home re-barrel jobs then it could make sense to buy the tools necessary to do the job but if you are only planning to do it one time, by the time you buy a Rem 700 action wrench, barrel vise, set of go/no go gauges, and barrel nut wrench, it'll probably cost you more doing it yourself.
 
I think X-caliber does those. My friends and I have had fantastic good accuracy from our savage and ar-15 barrels made in Montana.
 
Something to keep in mind, unless you plan on doing multiple home re-barrel jobs, by the time you purchase all the necessary tools to do a Remage aka Remington/Savage conversion you'll probably have more into it than if you'd just paid a gunsmith to chamber and fit a new barrel for you. AND, if you do the work yourself and for any reason you can't seem to get it to shoot or things didn't turn out quite right, you don't have anyone to take it back to but yourself. I'm certainly not saying it's rocket science to do a home Remage barrel job but "stuff" happens.

IMO, if you plan to do multiple home re-barrel jobs then it could make sense to buy the tools necessary to do the job but if you are only planning to do it one time, by the time you buy a Rem 700 action wrench, barrel vise, set of go/no go gauges, and barrel nut wrench, it'll probably cost you more doing it yourself.

The vise I use to change barrels was made with a few pieces of scrap 2X6 and a couple threaded rods. The whole thing cost my like $5. Maybe $80 for the wrench and go gauge, you can use tape to make it into a no-go. Way cheaper than what I've ever paid to have someone chamber and install a shouldered barrel for me. So with a single exception in recent years (F-class rig) I do all my own now with prefits, on both Savage and Remage.

Worst case you only save a little on the first one....it's pretty likely after you do the experience once you'll be going that way again!
 
Is there a difference between a savage barrel nut and a remage barrel nut or do they all take the same wrench?
 
When you order your barrel...make sure to ask them if the wrench that fits the savage barrel nut will
fit their barrel and supplied nut. With a remington action PacNor makes what they call a "pac-nut"
that will work. I'm sure the other barrel makers will fix ya up. :)
 
I pre-fit both my Savages and Remingtons, the wrench is the same for both including the Pac-nor's...
 
How about the Criterion/NSS Remage barrel nut, is that the same as a savage?
yes, the nut from NSS uses the same wrench for both. I have both savagae and remage barrels from CBI and also am quite impressed. both rifles were 223 and now are 20p. mine don't always eject smoothly, that's something you might run into
 
yes, the nut from NSS uses the same wrench for both. I have both savagae and remage barrels from CBI and also am quite impressed. both rifles were 223 and now are 20p. mine don't always eject smoothly, that's something you might run into
What do you suppose causes poor ejection? Is it common for the 20P to not eject well?
 
throw it in a box........send it to Pac Nor......let them chamber & fit it......

if I recall..their Remage nut is $50........build the same contour...so the barrel channel fits

ask for -0- freebore....min 26"....min 11 twist...or 10......stamp cal & twist on barrel...

also believe they will true your 700 action upon fitting barrel......go SS SM.....not CM.......

I've had them build me 5-6 20 PTs....Savage prefits......my next one for me......soon to

replace my high mileage PT...thinking 9 twist..just in case Hornady ever decides to build

a 50 gr V max in 20 cal.......wishful thinking huh ?
 
Something to keep in mind, unless you plan on doing multiple home re-barrel jobs, by the time you purchase all the necessary tools to do a Remage aka Remington/Savage conversion you'll probably have more into it than if you'd just paid a gunsmith to chamber and fit a new barrel for you. AND, if you do the work yourself and for any reason you can't seem to get it to shoot or things didn't turn out quite right, you don't have anyone to take it back to but yourself. I'm certainly not saying it's rocket science to do a home Remage barrel job but "stuff" happens.

IMO, if you plan to do multiple home re-barrel jobs then it could make sense to buy the tools necessary to do the job but if you are only planning to do it one time, by the time you buy a Rem 700 action wrench, barrel vise, set of go/no go gauges, and barrel nut wrench, it'll probably cost you more doing it yourself.

Probably something to consider. However, the barrel nut wrench can be had fo $40 or so, maybe less if you can get one used. All the Savage wrenches I've had work fine on my single Remage barrel. Go-No go gauges are unnecessary. I was swapping Savage barrels for 10 years before I ever even saw a gauge. As is related on another thread a barrel vise is good, but you can improvise. A Remington action wrench won't be needed to install the new barrel. Possibly you can borrow one fro removing the old barrel, although it is nice to have one around, it isn't absolutely necessary. Unless you have a friend who knows how to chamber barrels and owns a lathe, you can expect to spend $150-250 to have a barrel chambered and threaded, depending on who does it and then there is also shipping both ways if the smith isn't close. You can do the math and decide which way works for you. I can't remember all the Savage barrels I've swapped and now I have one Remage. As long as I shoot prairie dogs I'll be buying and using prefit barrels.

YMMV,
Rick
 
Barrel vise..(pic)....nut wrench.........action wrench make it all simple........

sized brass for H/S setting......Dremel.......for rusted CM barrels.......or smooth nut

replaced with new nut.......

p_749006352_2.jpg
 
What do you suppose causes poor ejection? Is it common for the 20P to not eject well?
the std. 700 bolt has issues with smaller cases, that's why a fireball bolt has the ejector and extractor just a little off on the bolt, so as you are pulling the bolt back the case is held up more. instead of to the right side. I think the 20p is just small enough to start to give some issues. not always and some people don't have a problem. I don't worry about it as I single shot shoot anyway. I love the cartridge. I have three 20p's and one 20tac. and before you ask, I don't have an opinion on which one is best as I just got the 20tac and haven't shot it enough yet.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,786
Messages
2,203,177
Members
79,110
Latest member
miles813
Back
Top