What should I use to finish my rifle stock?

[jepp2]

So I have the old finish stripped from my Cooper 21 rifle stock.

I prefer a finish that is more "in" the wood, than "on" the wood. A satin finish that looks hand rubbed, so what product should I use to finish my stock with? Any pictures would be very helpful

Previously I have refinished S&W grips. I have used Tung Oil Finish (2 coats for no finish on top the wood, 3 coats for a richer finish with some finish on the wood.)

I have also used Pure Tung Oil. First 5 coats 50/50 Tung Oil/OMS. Last 5 coats pure Tung Oil.

I have never used Tru-oil. I would like the finish to stand up to light contact with Butches Bore Shine and Bore Tech Cu remover.

 

[joshb]

If I remember correctly, Preacher posted some beautiful pics of his Tru oil finishing. I've been using Watco Danish Oil, with good results. I sand to 1000 grit, then wet sand in the first two coats.

 

[onelastshot]

Put one coat of polyurethane on the stock and then use 0000 steel wool on it. That's your base, then put 5-6 coats of Tru oil on it. Works like a charm.

 

[jepp2]

I sand to 1000 grit, then wet sand in the first two coats.

That looks great! Do you do anything to dull the finish of the last coat?

 

[joshb]

Hi. No. The stock pictured (like most of my pics) has only dried overnight. You can see an area of some unfilled grain that I missed, here and there. I get mine to this stage and let them dry for a "while". Most times, months. I shoot and enjoy them for a while. Then I pull the stock and give it another few coats, while attending to the areas I missed before. I'll use the cold, winter months for that work. They're a long ongoing project.

 

[olddav]

I've used a 50/50 mixture of Tung Oil and mineral spirits sanded into the wood with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper. This method may require up to 20 coats to fill in the grain. Afterwards I apply approx 5 coats of Tru Oil, leaving a high gloss finish. If a high gloss finish is not what your looking for then you could either omit the Tru Oil or use a mild abrasive to dull the finish.
I've refinished three stocks with this method and they do come out quite nice and appear to be very durable.

 

[jepp2]

After searching posts for stock finishing, I decided I would give the Arrow Wood Finish a try. Seemed to be the type finish I was looking for. So now I'm done and here are the before, ready for finishing, and completed stock pics.
Before

Old finish removed

After Arrow Wood Finish

 

[joshb]

Looks nice. Great job.

 

[RW]

How do you do around the checkering since you can't wet sand in that area?

 

[jepp2]

How do you do around the checkering since you can't wet sand in that area?

I just used a corner of a small piece of sandpaper. I didn't tape off the checkering since I started with 320 grit and went to 3000.

 

[Intheshop]

Coming from a pro shop archery standpoint.....

If you're referring to Thunderbird arrow finish,that's a big thumbs up.The stuff has been around for years.Has great flex,and holds it's own in wear resistance (continual pulling arrows from targets),and VG moisture protection.Googlefoo a,"Massey" finsh.Another archery clear that's been tested to the extreme.....if I had to guess,it started in the 1970-80 period.Better sprayed,but most just wipe it on.

Nice work,and thanks for the pics.

 

[jepp2]

If you're referring to Thunderbird arrow finish,that's a big thumbs up.

It wasn't Thunderbird. I was Arrow Wood Finish.

 

[Intheshop]

Jepp,probably the same stuff?

Slight tangent.....touch up guns,aka,"jamb gun" is the poop for spray guns on stocks.Iwata makes a very nice one.They come in,and check me here....from 1.4 mm to,I believe a 2.0 mm needle.But the main reason they work so well is that they're engineered for shooting up to about a 3-4" pattern.Where full sized guns,"start" at about 3-4.

Also,by spraying....you can control the gloss WAY more effectively than any wiping or brushing.To the point,that you can go from a full on "wet" coat.....adj fluid and air #'s,to a pebble (orange peel),matte finish.

Just have to get on top of the safety side of it.Which applies even if you aren't spraying.You need a predictable airflow of about 1-2 mph....along with respirators.We have an old school booth,down draft is much nicer.Best of luck,BW.

 

[RW]

do you use the corner of the sand paper to go in between the grooves of the checkering I was afraid of rounding the checkering. I would think you would have to use a checkering tool to clean up the groves.I can't get the sand paper to be that precise. Ron

 

[jepp2]

do you use the corner of the sand paper to go in between the grooves of the checkering

No. The checkering was still very sharp. I used acetone to strip the stock finish, and it cleaned the checkering very well. So I basically stayed away from it. I only wet sanded the smooth stock surfaces. The second last coat I used a toothbrush to lightly apply the wood finish to the checkering.

 

[RW]

I understand now thank You very much!!, Ron

 

[jepp2]

I understand now thank You very much!!

I consider myself one baby step above beginner on stock refinishing. I have worked on several sets of S&W grips, and I was pleased with the results.

The finish on the Cooper didn't highlight the figure the stock did have. The previous owner let bore cleaner strip the finish on the top of the comb. So it was a candidate for refinishing anyway. And on my prairie dog hunt this year, the rifle rolled out of my rest, and while I caught it before it hit the ground, it made some dents in the stock. So it gave me the chance to raise the dents when I refinished it.