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Own a Sinclair competition front rest?

Great idea, they should have one of those included with every rest they sell.
Or make primary rise column and windage block a tighter slip fit. I guess thats not a priority on high production line, lol. An easy fix is adding a thumb screw in the opposing unused 3/8 hole to put slight pressure on column to take up some sloppiness. I've since made all new parts with a much better fit that is soooo much better....
 
Or make primary rise column and windage block a tighter slip fit. An easy fix is adding a thumb screw in the opposing unused 3/8 hole to put slight pressure on column to take up some sloppiness.
A couple of years ago there was a forum member who made and sold a nice bolt with a long slotted shoulder that went into the unused hole. I bought one and have it installed on my Sinclair rest.
 
IMG_5566.JPG To help with fit questions, here's the CAD drawing used to make the CNC laser program. My knob dimensions to the left. It's a nominal .02" bigger than my knob.
 
I have to ask....do you really have to boar hog down on those "handled" bolts to the point where you need THAT much leverage to move them a second time????? I have a Sinclair rest, not the one pictured...but the knobs look like that. So far {I guess I better say "knock on wood"???}, I have not had to wring up on either bolt to cause the need for a wrench. Wouldn't a simple "bigger knob" do it??? or do you really need that much more to stop it from dancing off the bench???? I gotta be missing something here. Cant just be a benchrest thing or you guys would be selling/buying a wrench that had one hundreth of a thousandths of inch pound clicks made into it......you know, to get the torque the same each time and not disturb the groups.
 
I guess if you have arthritis in your fingers, but Knock Wood I can still squeeze your hand pretty good when we shake hands.
The big thing is remembering to lock everything down. And also make sure the Mariner Wheel is tight.

Joe Salt
 
I have a pretty good grip being a mechanic for 14 years. No matter how tight I would get movement and occasionally the whole thing would slip on me. I actually had a request from tom to make him a wrench a couple years ago. And quite a few other have want one when they seen his. Sinclair probably should have used a fine thread on this knob....
 
I have a pretty good grip being a mechanic for 14 years. No matter how tight I would get movement and occasionally the whole thing would slip on me. I actually had a request from tom to make him a wrench a couple years ago. And quite a few other have want one when they seen his. Sinclair probably should have used a fine thread on this knob....

This happened to me earlier this year during a 1000 yard BR match. I was 2 shots into my 10 shot string of Heavy Gun and the entire column collapsed on me! It took me a few minutes to get back onto the target and get everything stable to finish the string. :mad: Edited to add, I just ordered one of these!
 
Nobody is suggesting really boiling them in, using a cheater pipe, impact wrench, particular torque value, etc. This little tool just helps snug them enough to keep the elevation posts from slipping (both primary & threaded post). Even if you are Lou Ferrigno, this will help you get them tight enough - just with less effort.
 
A friend just yesterday showed me a home brewed help for this problem, but this item was just added to my cart. Great idea and thanks Alex for pointing it out. Too many times I have had that either of the elevation knobs come loose and I had not noticed until too late.

Steve
 

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