Had the same thing happen in a Savage 30-06. I replaced the firing pin spring and had no more trouble. Wolff Gunsprings makes stronger springs.
Primers not going off?
- Thread starter savageshooter86
- Start date
If the bolt closes with no resistance, the brass is too short.
That would tell me that the round is flopping around in the chamber. The key word is SHORTER!!
If you increase the OAL by pulling the bullet out a bit, that would hold the case head against the bolt face and give the firing pin a better chance to POP the primer.
If the round is SHORTER and not being held in place by the bullet being stuffed INTO the lands, it just gets pushed forward by the firing pin and you get a weak strike. As it is now, the bullets are set to a JUMP to the lands.
Brass too short, being pushed forward by the firing pin.
Could be that the shoulders on the brass got pushed back too far OR, the primers didn't get seated down all the way. One step at a time till you find the problem. Don't blame the firing pin or spring or primer till you can PROVE it. And pulling a few bullets to lengthen the OAL won't cost you anything.
I measured each sized case. Exactly 1k shoulder bump from fired case spec. I also use 21st century priming tool and seat primer until it touches and then give slight squeeze more. Don't have issue with my other rifle. But that's a Borden brmxd vs savage target action.
So not sure how brass is too short?
If the bolt closes with no resistance, the brass is too short.
That would tell me that the round is flopping around in the chamber. The key word is SHORTER!!
If you increase the OAL by pulling the bullet out a bit, that would hold the case head against the bolt face and give the firing pin a better chance to POP the primer.
If the round is SHORTER and not being held in place by the bullet being stuffed INTO the lands, it just gets pushed forward by the firing pin and you get a weak strike. As it is now, the bullets are set to a JUMP to the lands.
Brass too short, being pushed forward by the firing pin.
Could be that the shoulders on the brass got pushed back too far OR, the primers didn't get seated down all the way. One step at a time till you find the problem. Don't blame the firing pin or spring or primer till you can PROVE it. And pulling a few bullets to lengthen the OAL won't cost you anything.
Yes, the key word is SHORTER. The cases that actually fired in this chamber were SHORTER than the unfired ones. If the case was "flopping around" in the chamber, it would lengthen when fired.
Pulling the bullet farther out on a factory round, so the base of the case is firmly against the boltface is DANGEROUS advice. Using the bullet to headspace by jamming it in the lands can cause excessive pressure with blown primers or worse. Unless he has worked up a reload specifically in the lands, IT SHOULD NOT BE DONE!
edit: oops, it wasn't a factory round. Everything else still stands
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
That statement shows you're not too sure of what you're saying/thinking.
So, you rolled your own and for some reason the shoulder got pushed back a little too far and the case now flops around in the chamber (not snug like it should be
). Could be that the brass got a little work hardened and didn't move when resized like it did prior to this problem? Been there, done that, didn't blame it on the firing pin or anything else but the brass being too short and being pushed forward in the chamber! Once the brass got fire formed, no more problem!!Sounds like you've already got your mind made up and it has nothing to do with the size of the brass so good luck finding the problem.
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I would bet it is the firing pin spring. CCI BR Primers have a thicker cup then most. It takes more force to set them off. If your firing pin spring gets weak you are not getting the accuracy potential out of your rifle. I have seen springs compress and he 1/2 inch to 1 inch shorter in a year or two. I have seen 1000 yard BR guns go away and shoot vertical with weak springs. Gun could not be tuned. Replace spring and they come right back to shooting. This is especially true on a BAT action with the 18 pound springs. That is why he changed the fire control and made a heavier fatter firing pin. The springs do get weaker and need replaced from time to time. I replace my Bat action springs every 2 years to maintain top accuracy.That statement shows you're not too sure of what you're saying/thinking.
So, you rolled your own and for some reason the shoulder got pushed back a little too far and the case now flops around in the chamber (not snug like it should be
Sounds like you've already got your mind made up it has nothing to do with the size of the brass so good luck finding the problem.
CCI BR Primers also need seated to the bottom of the pocket. Matt
Matt thanks. If this rifle shoots better with new spring I will be lost. As it shoots excellent now. I have put in order for replacement spring. This one has over 2200 rds on it
That statement shows you're not too sure of what you're saying/thinking.
So, you rolled your own and for some reason the shoulder got pushed back a little too far and the case now flops around in the chamber (not snug like it should be
Sounds like you've already got your mind made up it has nothing to do with the size of the brass so good luck finding the problem.
What part of the case is shorter after firing don't you understand? I do have my mind made up, I never want to be beside you when you are firing your reloads.
Had the same problem. I solved it by not pushing so hard when seating. No-one mentions it but if you push to hard the primer anvil probably starts to crush and penetrate the primer charge. Not seated till the anvil legs touch the primer pocket bottom they will probably still go off. If you damage the primer compound it may not go off. I don't know if the primer charge will crack or if it's just penetrated. I do know for sure that less push completely solved the problem. Every primer will not have the exact same feel since the pockets are swaged into the case head, not machined. Pocket uniforming makes the pockets the same depth and squares the corners. It does nothing the make the o.d. uniform. I used to push very hard on the tool handle. The problem started when I rebuilt a Lee priming tool with parts from another tool. I measured how far the push rod protruded and adjusted based on pin height and feel. The pin has to protrude approximately the distance from
S-86, Hope I haven't ruined your post, I will heartily apologize if it turns out you didn't size your brass properly.
Had the same problem. I solved it by not pushing so hard when seating. No-one mentions it but if you push too hard the primer anvil probably starts to crush and penetrate the primer charge. If not seated until the anvil legs touch the primer pocket bottom they will probably still go off. If you damage the primer compound it may not go off. I don't know if the primer charge will crack or if it's just penetrated. I do know for 100% sure that less push completely solved the problem. Every primer will not have the exact same feel since the pockets are swaged into the case head, not machined. A tiny variation in pocket and cup o.d., depends how the numbers stack up. Pocket uniforming makes the pockets the same depth and squares the corners. It does nothing the make the o.d. uniform.
I fired a 6mm Rem for 40 years with the same firing pin spring. The old springs and some sold today are music wire. They loose tension quickly. Modern Chrome Silicon alloy springs maintain tension forever.
Start of the problem:
The problem started when I rebuilt a Lee priming tool with parts from another tool to replace worn aluminum parts. The replacement pin was longer. Some of the primers seated with a reasonable feel when the handle touched the tool body. If some felt tight I forced the handle against the tool body.
Problem Solved:
The tool was adjusted so the primer was 0.002” below the head then I gave it a few thou more based on feel. 6BR Lapua cases uniformed pockets. The pin now protrudes about 0.48” above the shell holder. 0.002” seating depth seems to be a repeated myth. I don’t think any primer manufacturer gives this dimension.
The Lee priming tool isn’t made to be adjustable but you can rotate the threaded shell holder for less pin protrusion. I engraved reference marks on the shell holder and body to maintain the setting.
I fired a 6mm Rem for 40 years with the same firing pin spring. The old springs and some sold today are music wire. They loose tension quickly. Modern Chrome Silicon alloy springs maintain tension forever.
Start of the problem:
The problem started when I rebuilt a Lee priming tool with parts from another tool to replace worn aluminum parts. The replacement pin was longer. Some of the primers seated with a reasonable feel when the handle touched the tool body. If some felt tight I forced the handle against the tool body.
Problem Solved:
The tool was adjusted so the primer was 0.002” below the head then I gave it a few thou more based on feel. 6BR Lapua cases uniformed pockets. The pin now protrudes about 0.48” above the shell holder. 0.002” seating depth seems to be a repeated myth. I don’t think any primer manufacturer gives this dimension.
The Lee priming tool isn’t made to be adjustable but you can rotate the threaded shell holder for less pin protrusion. I engraved reference marks on the shell holder and body to maintain the setting.
You want the primer below flush with the head of the case - that is where the .002" measurement came from. You need to have the primer fully seated in the bottom of the pocket with the anvil pushed into the cup for proper ignition. If the primer is not below flush then either it is not fully seated or the pocket is not deep enough.
This was more of a problem back when primers had rounded cups rather than the flat cups we have today.
This was more of a problem back when primers had rounded cups rather than the flat cups we have today.
I doubt I'm crushing the primer. I feel it touch pocket bottom and barely go further. It's a feel thing. I'm not death squeezing like I had to do years ago with the Lee primer tool.
All I know is what I did completely solved the problem.
How do you clean your brass?
What if you use brass with a large primer?
When the head to datum measurement gets shorter from the firing pin strike, the case is absorbing the energy from the firing pin .
If the forward movement of the case is stopped by the extractor, the primer will fire.
My Savage 223 does not require a shoulder on the case to fire a primer.
http://s338.photobucket.com/user/joe1944usa/media/Firearms and Reloading/HeadClearance.jpg.html
Stainless media
Looking for water, Ben? It's a good question.
How do you dry your brass?
No water. Brass is dried and these were loaded days after cleaning brass.
In oven at 205 for 20 to 30 minutes. No water is left. Doesn't harm brass
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