I need a 1.055x20 die
- Thread starter bsekf
- Start date
madmixerman
Gold $$ Contributor
I found an old post where a guy said he rented one from 4D reamer rentals.
Interesting that the thread galled removing the jam nut. That nut is installed or removed by hand once it is broken loose. However if the forward most rail mount screw (for the scope) was the wrong one that will chew a barrel thread up really ugly.
Doesn't matter. Depending on how badly the barrel threads are you may be able to clean them up with a thread file. Keep in mind that the action is way more expensive than the average barrel so you really want to be sure the threads on the barrel are OK when you are done. Take a jam nut (new one) and run it off and on to be sure. Eyeballing it is not enough.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LE8A5W/?tag=accuratescom-20
Doesn't matter. Depending on how badly the barrel threads are you may be able to clean them up with a thread file. Keep in mind that the action is way more expensive than the average barrel so you really want to be sure the threads on the barrel are OK when you are done. Take a jam nut (new one) and run it off and on to be sure. Eyeballing it is not enough.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LE8A5W/?tag=accuratescom-20
Most matte finished savage rifles are shot peened / blasted after assembly which leaves a lot of small steel beads in the nooks and crannies , if it's not blown or washed out it will really make a mess of the barrel , which is the softest of the 3 , barrel , barrel nut and receiver .
I agree, however, the op said the jam nut did the damage. There is no need to remove the jam nut. (meaning to turn it back any amount after it is broken free) You break it loose and unscrew the barrel. Then 90% of the threads on the barrel are visible for you to clean them up and then unscrew the jam nut. That's why I can't understand fully why a jam nut would be turned any further than to break it loose and cause the damage. I have bought a number of Savage actions (new). The threads in the action always seem to be loaded with debris. But the jam nut, once the barrel is unscrewed then comes off. As I said all those threads are right there available to be cleaned.
I have seen several barrels the threads got messed up and ever one was from the front base screw being too long . Larry
Some replace either factory smooth nuts or factory nuts thinking an aftermarket will be better or maybe he was going to sell the barrel ? Your guess is as good as mine .
I think I mentioned that in post #5 Larry. I agree with you 100%....my experience is that screw is the culprit.
I actually have a barrel that someone had turned TWO full revolutions with that screw embedded in the threads. Peeled the threads right off. I should have asked what type of barrel vise or action wrench they were using as it is an impressive feat. That too long screw becomes a perfect set screw!
The backscrew can hit on the bolt head also . Seen that many of times also .
Many don't think when installing bases .
I tighten the screws finger tight one screw at a time nd see if the bases move if they move the screw is too long . Larry
Switchbarrel
Gold $$ Contributor
Found this in another post:
I contacted the guys at 4D Reamer Rentals and they were nice enough to rent me a 1.055x20 thread die. I say "nice enough" because apparently people have tendency to treat the rental tools tough enough that they no longer advertise renting that tool out. I was able to run the die down the threads and clean them up just enough to get rid of the galling. OD of the threads is still at 1.042" (what else would it be I guess). I test fit the barrel to the action and the fit was surprisingly tight, just as tight as the Shilen barrel which has on OD of 1.052"
carlsbad
Lions don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep.
The reason they don't rent that tool is because a die can't really cut full depth threads that big unless it is very, very heavy and still, it isn't the right way to do it. The only use for that die is cleaning up threads like you did and speeding up the final step of single pointing. People who rent the die and try to thread a barrel blank end up with a botched job, possibly a damaged die, they lose their deposit and aren't happy. Rental company probably still makes a profit but it is good to see they don't want to set people up for failure.
Glad it worked for you. Your threads aren't as good as they once were, but they're probably just fine. There could be some high spots that will smooth out with use. I'd fire a few shots and recheck my head space with the no-go gauge. If it changes, that isn't necessarily bad. If your no-go gauge goes, then spin the barrel out and look at the threads. They'll probably still look fine and feel smooth, they have just seated better. Readjust the headspace and check it again 10 shots later and at the end of the day.
Use a good nickel or copper antiseize to lubricate the threads.
-Jerry, Mechanical Professional Engineer with a lot of high strength fastener experience.
Glad it worked for you. Your threads aren't as good as they once were, but they're probably just fine. There could be some high spots that will smooth out with use. I'd fire a few shots and recheck my head space with the no-go gauge. If it changes, that isn't necessarily bad. If your no-go gauge goes, then spin the barrel out and look at the threads. They'll probably still look fine and feel smooth, they have just seated better. Readjust the headspace and check it again 10 shots later and at the end of the day.
Use a good nickel or copper antiseize to lubricate the threads.
-Jerry, Mechanical Professional Engineer with a lot of high strength fastener experience.
This was a smooth nut, so I used the Pipe wrench method. Nut is to be discarded. I am sure it was the beading material, barrel threads look good, just galled some. It will stare into an action or new nut but only about 3 turns and then gets hard. I need to chase/clean up the threads with a die.
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
carlsbad
Lions don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep.
"looked good" and "galled some" don't belong in the same sentence. Maybe you had some light thread damage of the thread crown.
Here is what galling looks like:
http://www.ets-esbjerg.com/log/Userfiles/Galleries/RotaryDamages/Rotary-14.jpg
galling happens when contact pressures exceed 10,000 psi on stainless steel. the threads cold weld together and often you have to sacrifice one part to save the other. More likely in austenetic stainless. cleaning up a galled thread will likely leave voids and irregularities.
Sounds like you're good to go. As suggested above, double check your scope rail screw lengths. Damage by scope ring screw would be noticed while taking off the lock nut.
--Jerry
Here is what galling looks like:
http://www.ets-esbjerg.com/log/Userfiles/Galleries/RotaryDamages/Rotary-14.jpg
galling happens when contact pressures exceed 10,000 psi on stainless steel. the threads cold weld together and often you have to sacrifice one part to save the other. More likely in austenetic stainless. cleaning up a galled thread will likely leave voids and irregularities.
Sounds like you're good to go. As suggested above, double check your scope rail screw lengths. Damage by scope ring screw would be noticed while taking off the lock nut.
--Jerry
Here is one tool to remove smooth Savage jam nuts:
http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/
http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/
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Contact a gunsmith, or even a machinist, and have have him chase the threads on his lathe.
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