Some thoughts on the accuracy issues that you have experienced. I apologize in advance if they are somewhat random in sequence.
1. Check the three (3) capscrews on the side of the action that clamp the barrel in place. Is there any red locking compound over the top of the capscrews? If so, this indicates that the barrel has not been exchanged from the original factory position.
2. If the locking compound is not present, the barrel may have either been exchanged for another barrel or moved from the original position. There is a specific tightening sequence to replace the barrel and as previously mentioned, this is an area that is torque sensitive. A low torque setting for these screws has been used by many with excellent results.
3. Check the tightness of the nut on the end of the bolt assembly. If this is loose, the firing pin does not strike consistently or with the full spring force. You might want to take the bolt apart and make sure that the firing pin is not broken/damaged and that the bolt was properly assembled. Note, no lube is necessary on the bolt internals.
4. Check the location of the trigger. If, when closing the bolt, the firing pin indicator moves, then the trigger is not in the proper location. Accuracy may suffer.
5. Also mentioned, cleaning and technique is more important than ever - especially if you are switching between different brands of ammunition. The different waxes used to lube are not all equal - and accuracy may suffer if you don't start with a clean barrel.
6. Can you provide some additional information for additional analysis? Photos are best, but at least:
- stock material
- bedded with our without pillars
- is the original bedding cross still in the stock or was it removed
- was headspace checked
- does the barrel have any "choke" at the muzzle
- barrel material & manufacturer
- condition of the crown
- what is your method of cleaning
- do you use a bore guide
- do you use brushes and if so, what material
7. Can you post some photos of the groups you experienced at 100 yards? Not to be critical, however smallbore at 100 yards is NOT an easy task even while using flags. As recommended, start out at 50y/m and work up to 100 yards after you get some suitable results.
8. Are you using a tuner (either muzzle / mid-barrel / both)?
9. What torque sequence are you using for the action bolts? Not only torque amount, but also sequence of tightening?
10. Can you do a blue check of the bottom of the action to the bedding? In addition, does the action exhibit any type of rocking when installed or during tightening of the action bolts?
11. What was your testing sequence for ammo at 100 yards?
12. What was the conditions during testing, including wind, light and mirage?
13. Does the barrel fully free float? This may sound dumb, but on rare occasions even the target stocks can be inletted improperly - I had this situation on my 1813....
14. Did you thoroughly check the stock for cracks? Does not matter if metal or wood - it can happen to either. Now, this would not apply to the new Precise stock as if that has a crack, you have MUCH bigger issues to deal with!
15. Check that the action screws are not bottoming out in the action. Take a black marker and darken the top of each bolt, install and torque to spec. Back them out and see if there are any marks on the top of the bolt indicating that contact is being made (not good).
16. I would recommend throwing this out on Delphi Forums Smallbore Accuracy and on TargetTalk - many of the prone and 3-p shooters are very familiar with this action and will be able to also provide additional thoughts.
I hope this gives some additional insight on tracking down the issue.
Best Regards,
ken
