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New reloaded problems

So I'm new to the reloading scene but have read lots of threads and watched many videos but I'm still having some issues.
I'll hopefully get the critical stuff out first.
I just acquired the Hornady classic reloading kit along with the HCBS case prep center, hornady auto charge powder dispenser (I currently have mixed feelings with regards to this as it overthrows most of my charges or gives me a green light to dump the charge even when it's .1 over my target) HCBS trimmer, HCBS swagger and the hornady 2 die kit (full size)
This is all to reload my 5000 .223 brass that I've shot at either the range or prairie doggin in ND. The brass was originally "American eagle" 55 grain .223 that I really liked as I could easily hit a head shot at 500-600 yards with my diamondback AR.
So here lies my problem...
After reading the hornady 9th edition I've cleaned all the brass to a nice polish. Punched out the primer, resized (or at least I thought I did according to the die manual) used Winchester "WSR" primers, hornady 68gn BTHP with a varget load of 24.2gn.
I trimmed the cases to the 1.75 deburred, chamfered, loaded primers, charge and then bullet. My C.O.L. Is exactly 2.25.
I feel like I really took my time on this but when I loaded 5-6 rounds in a mag and tried to chamber a round it wouldn't chamber all the way. Was about 1/4" or so from chambering and wouldn't eject the round.
I also bought the Hornady bullet comparator as well as the Hornady headspace comparator but I really cannot find a site that truly helps walk me through the correct way of using it.
I also am aware they're are gonna be arguments over Better powder, primer, etc. I was just going off of what was in the book so I could keep most of the mistakes off the table at first and work up from there.
The only conclusion I can come up with is maybe I didn't resize properly and the shoulder is wrong?
Please be gentle people!
Id really love to get this right the second time. Any advice and where I can get the info on using these headspace and bullet comparators correctly would be greatly appreciated and a better way of getting the charges more accurate as I'm gonna take this Hornady powder dispenser back tomorrow.
Thanks for the help!
 
Do you still have some empty cases that you have resized and didn't load yet. Try and see if they chamber and eject by hand. I just started reloading for an AR that I just built ( been reloading since I was 16, over 40 yrs ago ) and first rule of thumb, make sure the cases you resized chamber before you load them.
If they chamber, let us know.
Tarey
 
The Hornady headspace comparator, measure one of the new unfired shells that you have been firing and measure one of the ones you have loaded, they should measure the same or within a thousanths or 2.
Tarey
 
1. You probably did not really size the cases enough the first time.
Never move to the next operation until you check your sized cases in the rifle chamber.
For a newbie to skip this gets you to where you are right now. So go back and try some fired brass and some sized cases and figure out how to size them so they fit your rifle. So they already fit? Go to 2.

2. You can bulge the shoulder of your loaded rounds when if you crimp too heavily. Crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp die or just skip crimping with the Hornady dies until you have time to learn crimping the right way.

3. The Hornady case gage cannot really measure head space. It can measure the length of your resizes cases and use it to compare one case to another.

For the 5.56 I think you need the .330 bushing installed in the tool chuck.
Check about 6 or 8 of your cases that you have not loaded that you know beyond a doubt were fired in your rifle.
Pick out and record the longest dimension for those cases.

To set your die set it about 1/4 turn above the shell holder.
Begin sizing cases and measuring the shoulder length. Turn down the die until it pushes your shoulder back .001 and check the fit in your rifle.
If they fit turn the die a tiny bit more until they are sized .002 shorter than the longest fired rounds.
Load a few rounds and test them. They should feed fine.
 
1. You probably did not really size the cases enough the first time.
Never move to the next operation until you check your sized cases in the rifle chamber.
For a newbie to skip this gets you to where you are right now. So go back and try some fired brass and some sized cases and figure out how to size them so they fit your rifle. So they already fit? Go to 2.

2. You can bulge the shoulder of your loaded rounds when if you crimp too heavily. Crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp die or just skip crimping with the Hornady dies until you have time to learn crimping the right way.

3. The Hornady case gage cannot really measure head space. It can measure the length of your resizes cases and use it to compare one case to another.

For the 5.56 I think you need the .330 bushing installed in the tool chuck.
Check about 6 or 8 of your cases that you have not loaded that you know beyond a doubt were fired in your rifle.
Pick out and record the longest dimension for those cases.

To set your die set it about 1/4 turn above the shell holder.
Begin sizing cases and measuring the shoulder length. Turn down the die until it pushes your shoulder back .001 and check the fit in your rifle.
If they fit turn the die a tiny bit more until they are sized .002 shorter than the longest fired rounds.
Load a few rounds and test them. They should feed fine.

Not uncommon for gas guns to need 0.003-0.004 bump back on shoulder sizing. As mentioned above, go in 0.001" increments and see what chambers.

-Mac
 
Did you get a small base sizer die? Just set sizer die to touch shell holder?
How did you get to your 2.25" OAL? Measure your brass/bullet vs your chamber?
Did you seat the bullet and do your "crimp" in the same step?

I sized up and loaded 1100 rounds for my AR recently using once fired brass:

I sized my brass with RCBS small base sizer dies. While setting the sizing die, I used 5 "odd ball" or different headstamp brass to cycle thru the action. The first one had sharpie marks on it and I set the die until it fit my chamber. I sized 4 more then cycled all 5 of them. All five in the magazine then cycled the action until all 5 were on the floor.

I primed all with a Lee hand-prime. Get one of the old round ones and you will never need another.

I then set up my Dillon to load one round....set powder measure, bullet seating, and used a Lee Factory Crimp die (collet style). I checked bullet seating depth with my AR before setting the crimp die. (I also made several "dummy" rounds. No primer or powder. I had a couple different bullets to load up and having a dummy to use to reset dies makes preparing to load go a lot faster.) After crimp die was set, I loaded one round through the three stages of the press I had set up. I double checked seating depth, crimp, and cycled it thru my AR. Then, I loaded 20 in a row, loaded my magazine to confirm they all fit fine, and cycled them all thru the action and onto a carpet on the floor. I confirmed they all loaded in the magazine and worked from magazine thru chamber and to the floor. Only after passing my quality tests did I allow myself to load the rest.

I didn't learn these steps in a day or a week....It has taken me many years and I have spent LOTS and LOTS of time fixing my own mistakes or replacing components that were not worth attempting to save. Loaded 20 hunting rounds last fall and since I was duplicating a known load and had the dies already set up, I skipped a few steps. Went from dirty brass to fully loaded without once checking fit in my action. About half fit well enough for hunting. The other half were tight chambering so were used for sighting in and distance verification.

Something in your process is not quite right and that is why your reload will not fit the chamber. You need to go thru the steps and see which process needs improved. I hope you don't have to pull all of the bullets and start over.

Good luck. Hope this helps.
 
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Wow. Thank you gentlemen.
I'll try and reply with some of the questions you had and fill in a couple more questionable areas.
Yes. I still have most all of my brass still yet to be reloaded. I've only cleaned and polished all my brass to this point and have only loaded a hundred this far.

I do NOT crimp any of the shells as almost everyone agrees there is no need.

I'm trying to wrap my head around this .001 setback with regards to headspace.
How do I set my die to achieve this. One issue I'm running into is half the time people (including the leaflet inside the die case) say to back the die off 1/8-1/4 turn. The other half say let the die touch the shell holder just before it came over then give it another 1/8-1/4 turn. Some say don't use the full size dies. Some say only do the neck.
I would love feedback on these issues as well but trying to get the .001 figured out first is paramount IMO.
One video says to add the neck diameter and the case diameter, devide in half and this should give me the diameter of the middle of the shoulder? Is this a good idea or at the least a good base?
I guess I'm just lost on the idea of where to measure to get the shoulder where it needs to be to acquire the appropriate headspace.
Thanks again gentlemen!
I'm greatly appreciative of all your input.
 
Wow. Thank you gentlemen.
I'll try and reply with some of the questions you had and fill in a couple more questionable areas.
Yes. I still have most all of my brass still yet to be reloaded. I've only cleaned and polished all my brass to this point and have only loaded a hundred this far.

I do NOT crimp any of the shells as almost everyone agrees there is no need.

I'm trying to wrap my head around this .001 setback with regards to headspace.
How do I set my die to achieve this. One issue I'm running into is half the time people (including the leaflet inside the die case) say to back the die off 1/8-1/4 turn. The other half say let the die touch the shell holder just before it came over then give it another 1/8-1/4 turn. Some say don't use the full size dies. Some say only do the neck.
I would love feedback on these issues as well but trying to get the .001 figured out first is paramount IMO.
One video says to add the neck diameter and the case diameter, devide in half and this should give me the diameter of the middle of the shoulder? Is this a good idea or at the least a good base?
I guess I'm just lost on the idea of where to measure to get the shoulder where it needs to be to acquire the appropriate headspace.
Thanks again gentlemen!
I'm greatly appreciative of all your input.

I use the rcbs precision mic; but there are other tools to check headspace. LE Wilson makes a nice unit too.
 
I was under the impression the only true accurate way to get the measurement from my rifle was to take the barrel off?
And with that being said a lot of the forums I've read say this is really not a necessity?
Have anyone here had they're chambers measured? Is it really necessary? Will it truly affect my loads if I don't?
 
So I got the 2.25 by measuring the round itself. Again. Im only using (at this time) the info in the Hornady 9th edition. I understand there are probably better combinations that work however since this is my first time I figured I'd go with the book first. It says the COL should be 2.25 with the configuration I was/am using. I am using the Hornady full size die set (2 dies).
So tell me if I am understanding this correctly.
I should grab a handfull of unloaded brass. (All the brass I have had all been shot previously from my rifle and all but maybe 2-3 boxes are the American eagle 55 grain $8.99 per box shells.)
Measure 5 of them?
How should I be measuring? I have both the headspace comparator and the bullet comparator.
I assume i should be using the headspace comparator to measure the 5 cases?
Pick the longest shell.
Then I kinda get lost after this.
I'm also getting lost on the "dummy shell".
I understand why I'd need one but how do I get one set up?
I'm still trying to wrap my head around how to set the die up to get to the .001 setback.
Sorry fellas. Don't mean to keep buggin ya but I'd rather get it right than wrong.
100 rounds are nothing to me to toss.
I would rather have comfort knowing these aren't gonna blow up in my or my sons face the first time on the range!
 
I was under the impression the only true accurate way to get the measurement from my rifle was to take the barrel off?
And with that being said a lot of the forums I've read say this is really not a necessity?
Have anyone here had they're chambers measured? Is it really necessary? Will it truly affect my loads if I don't?

You cannot measure head space with the barrel off to my knowledge. You need the bolt lugs locked into the receiver. The measurement is something like the bolt face to the chamber shoulder. It would be a lot easier to get the die adjustment correct if it was a bolt action. I guess you know you cannot crimp a bullet if it doesn't have crimping grooves. Most dies are not crimping dies. Years ago I shot a 7mm mag with Hornady 154 Gr Round nose bullets. They had a crimping groove, but I never crimped. I think the military crimps because of the rough handling condition ammo might see in vehicles and combat. They don't want the bullets bumped deeper into the case. Never had an AR. Sounds like what others said. Measure the shoulder at the neck junction and base and see if it bulges a few thou. beyond acceptable. Semi auto's usually have a larger chamber than bolt action ammo to make sure it feeds and ejects. Do you need a small base die? The dies you bought should not be small base FL. Why do you think you need 0.001" setback. If a fired case easily rechambers you may not need setback.

If a fired case chambers easily the only conclusion I can think of is that you are doing something improperly to the case when sizing by wrong die adjustment or you need small base dies.

Sounds like three possibilities.
1. Shoulder not bumped back enough. Sounds like you may be bumping enough or not need any bump?
2. Shoulder pushed back to much causing a bulge near the neck shoulder junction.
3. The base near the head is expanding because you have a large chamber. Need small base dies, not standard dies.
 
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You are correct, you will use the long headspace bushing and it should be marked with a A330 for use on 223. Put that on your calipers and zero them. Then measure a handful of cases you know for a fact that were fired out of your rifle. You should get measurements that are somewhat close to one another, maybe a thousandth or two off of one another depending on the particular batch of brass and how springy it is. I cant remember the range that it should be but lets say 1.560 just for example. You will want to adjust your die down so that it moves that number lower thus bumping the shoulders back a bit. For a semi I would go for .003-.004 so that the mechanics of the weapon arent working too hard with brass thats a tight fit. So you would want your fired brass to be 1.557-1.556 from the example dimension. You might want to unscrew your die out a bit to ensure you dont crush them or stick it too bad or something unfortunate though if you arent sizing enough already that might not be a concern at where you have it set now. Then you will screw it in, maybe 1/4 turn at a time until you notice that your sized brass is coming out lower than the 1.560 fired dimension. Its thousandths of an inch here so little adjustments to avoid going too far. It may take a long time and many up an downs for you to get it set properly for your first time moving in small increments but it will be well worth it. A lock ring will also be nice on the die rather than so that you can lock your adjustments in between each attempt without it wiggling on you.

The headspace gauge isnt an actual measure for your headspace, it is a comparator. It allows you to say "with my current tools etc I am getting this measurement and after I size it the dimensions changed to this." Use someone elses tools and you might come up with different numbers. So its not a true measurement, its relative you what you have and are using. Someone lses numbers may or may not match up to yours but they should be broad stokes fairly close.
 
Spife7980.
Thank you very much. This gives me a whole understanding now!
So. Now I have another question.
I assume I'll start all over with the ones I previously loaded. I have the puller that looks like a hammer from rcms. Will the bullets be reusable?
And do I just toss the brass since they have an unfired primer in them or is it OK to punch out an unfired primer?
I understand it's not 100% accurate measuring the AOL with a dial caliper alone but that's how I've been doing it so far. I thought the bullet comparator would increase the accuracy with this but it only measures from the oclave. Is there a better more reliable method of measuring the AOL?
Another important question I had was since I try to measure everything i thought I would actually weigh the individual bullets once they were loaded as I've never been 100% confident with the Hornady powder dispenser but only a handfull of bullets actually came out weighing exactly the same. Shouldn't they be exact if the trim was exact, the bullets are the same grain and the powder was exact?
Is there a better way to measure powder that's quick yet reliable?
 
I also think it mite be a bulge at the shoulder.
Have you looked at the bullet to see if it is engaging
in the lands.
 
It's ok to resize the brass with the live primer in it, I just hold a towel in front of where the spent primer would come out. I have deprimed tons of live primers and never had one go off.
Make sure your resizing die touches the top of the shell holder when the ram is all the way up when you resize your cases and then try chambering a couple to make sure they fit.
Yes, the bullets are reusable.
The OAL for an AR, they must fit in the magazine.
Do you have a scale to weigh a charge every so often after you have the powder measure set, just to double check the accuracy. No necessary to weigh loaded cases.
Tarey
 
I just acquired the Hornady classic reloading kit along with the HCBS case prep center, hornady auto charge powder dispenser (I currently have mixed feelings with regards to this as it overthrows most of my charges or gives me a green light to dump the charge even when it's .1 over my target)

I use a similar powder scale from RCBS and it tends to overthrow charges of large grained powder, like Varget. You can use tweezers or a tiny spoon to remove a few kernels from the powder pan to make corrections. If your scale came with check weights, you can use them periodically to verify the accuracy of your powder dispenser.
 
Sure the bullets are reusable. The only thing I would do is push a piece of tissue down to the bottom of the hammer where the bullet will land. Also you can check your powder weight at this time if you have doubts. I haven't used that type in a long time but for some reason I recall the tissue.
Your COAL is limited to what will fit and feed from the magazine. After that the measurement, you'd like one from the base to the ogive. If it fits in the mag you are no where near the rifling. So the real measurement is base to ogive to achieve similarity between loaded rounds. ( If you take a few bullets and measure their length you will see why)
When F/L resizing, let the ram sit at the top of the stroke for couple of seconds. (brass is springy).
I never had a mishap with that type bullet puller, however, safety glasses would be a good idea.
Lots of good info above from others.
 

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