I'm ticked!

[joshb]

At myself. I've been telling myself that I should buy some Lapua 223 brass for my new 7 twist Brux barrel on an old 595 action. I put it off and have been using some military recycled sorted LC brass until I get around to it. That bit me in the a$$ today. I had a case head separation on 4th firing of this batch. It took out my extractor. Lost the pin, found the extractor and spring that fell out into my hand. Searched. Gone. Lesson learned. I'm putting this up so the next guy can learn from it. Josh Ps- Any one have a good parts guy?
BTWay I only bumped them 2 thou each time as per finicky reloading procedures. I think they went through a SAW on the first firing.

 

[Ggmac]

Sorry to hear but glad your ok .

 

[joshb]

Hi Gary: Thanks for the concern. I caught a little hot powder spray in the face, but with my scars and wrinkles it's not going to hurt my marriage.

 

[dickn52]

Linked shells on first firing? I never touch them knowingly.

 

[dkhunt14]

I wonder if they weren't shot in a big chamber and really stretched the first firing. Matt

 

[joshb]

I wonder if they weren't shot in a big chamber and really stretched the first firing. Matt

That's what I'm thinking. I figured I could "baby" them and make them last. No joy. I'm gonna put the whole lot in a drawer, marked "Last Ditch" and for get'em. I have tons of PMC for plinking. I'm getting a couple 100 Lapua, today.

 

[CharlieNC]

I shoot Lapua and LC brass, and have never had any problems with the LC. Actually shot my best score with LC.

 

[Rsadams]

Never showed a ring around the brass before separation?

I have a friend that just bought a new colt m4 we went and sighted it and he gave me his once fired brass at the end of the day, and after checking his brass with a headspace comparater its way longer than my sig chamber or most LC I pick up at the range. Most I pick up is close to the same..
With my gun I can get away with .003 to .004 it's an auto of course. But I would have to set the shoulder back .007 with his brass on the first reloads to get to the same point as mine.

 

[Shynloco]

That's what I'm thinking. I figured I could "baby" them and make them last. No joy. I'm gonna put the whole lot in a drawer, marked "Last Ditch" and for get'em. I have tons of PMC for plinking. I'm getting a couple 100 Lapua, today.[/QUOTE

Josh,
Good to hear YOU didn't suffer from a piece of failed brass. And many of us have been down that road and learned the lesson early on that when using anybody else brass, look for and expect failures such as head separations and loose primer pockets. I did some extensive testing (a few summers ago) and bought up several hundred LC .308 ("Once fired") Match brass to compare to Lapua .308 brass. Some I had to run through a Small Based die to fit my custom and tight .308BR chamber. And something I learned from years past was to develop a habit of closely examining the base and webb areas of fired brass for that infamous ring (tell tale sign in impending failure) that begins to form once it has had it's useful days. And I rarely have found that "ring" but look for it nonetheless on each subsequent reloading. I've even found it occasionally with Lapua brass when 'pushing the envelope." But its still cheaper to toss brass than having to repair your equipment or your face. So keep the faith Josh and don't feel like the Lone Ranger. We've all said would of, should and could of...and "maybe one more reload"and thankfully, lived another day and got away with something that could have bit us. My best as always,

Alex

 

[Rsadams]

Josh,
Good to hear YOU didn't suffer from a piece of failed brass. And many of us have been down that road and learned the lesson early on that when using anybody else brass, look for and expect failures such as head separations and loose primer pockets. I did some extensive testing (a few summers ago) and bought up several hundred LC .308 ("Once fired") Match brass to compare to Lapua .308 brass. Some I had to run through a Small Based die to fit my custom and tight .308BR chamber. And something I learned from years past was to develop a habit of closely examining the base and webb areas of fired brass for that infamous ring (tell tale sign in impending failure) that begins to form once it has had it's useful days. And I rarely have found that "ring" but look for it nonetheless on each subsequent reloading. I've even found it occasionally with Lapua brass when 'pushing the envelope." But its still cheaper to toss brass than having to repair your equipment or your face. So keep the faith Josh and don't feel like the Lone Ranger. We've all said would of, should and could of...and "maybe one more reload"and thankfully, lived another day and got away with something that could have bit us. My best as always,

Alex

My motto exactly.. Brass is cheaper than a rifle or hospital visit. If in doubt just throw it in the recycling bin.

 

[USMCDOC]

Sounded like a pc of saw brass

 

[Brians356]

Scrap brass brings a fair price, take all you have to a scrap metal buyer. Why trip over them?
-

 

[Richard Jones]

LC 98 brass, maybe thrice loaded, nothing too hot. Sized for a factory Savage barrel, then fired in a Douglas. I won't do that again.......brass showed no sign of separation prior to this firing...... pretty sure this was a chamber issue, not specifically brass, as they all did it on that one firing and brass was all same headstamp, but sourced from different lots.

Glad you are OK. Rifle parts be cheaper and more easily replaced than human parts, for sure......

 

[dickn52]

But can anyone explain why they all appear to separate at the same place on the brass?

 

[GrocMax]

Had the same thing happen to me, suspect SAW fired, stretching it. The line can be really hard to spot externally until you see a definite crack, and is usually irregular, not a concentric line.


New LC is pretty cheap.

My guess is the front portion of the case sticks to the chamber wall, and the rear doesn't, in a sloppy, long, and large chamber.

 

[ireload2]

The location is probably a function of the taper in the thickness of the case wall.
A thick case wall with more taper will separate toward the front end because the rear of the case is so strong and is harder to expand. A thin case wall will pull the head off right at the junction of the solid head and the case body such as you get with WW or RP brass in the .303 British fired in Lee-Enfields.

But can anyone explain why they all appear to separate at the same place on the brass?

 

[perry42]

From sizing range brass I've come across 223 LC, FC, and Israeli brass that have been shot in LARGE chambers. Using Dillon case lube and a small base die it is easy to tell when the case was fired from a large/loose chamber just by feel. I only keep brass from the brands mentioned above and it has served me very well. The LC is reserved for match/accuracy loads and the other two for fun shooting. After 5 reloads I use a small dental pic (one with the tip bent 45%) to check cases for early signs of separation. Too many times I've found range 308 brass to have signs of brass separation and now only use Lapua 308 brass and this will change as I start using Lapua Palma brass to replace older cases.

perry42

 

[joshb]

Update: Just "won" a Gunbroker auction! 4 boxes of Lapua gold label (my semantics for brown box) $52.50/ box! That'll hold me. Josh