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Redding body dies

I have two Redding body dies for my 243ai. I was going to sell one and was asked if it was a small base die and I said I dint think but I would check. The dies are marked differently and I wanted to know what is the difference. One is marked 243imp 40* body 2t the other is 243imp 40* v2. Can anybody tell me the difference? The length is different inside and outside also. One I got by itself the other one came with the competition match bushing neck die set.
 
I have two Redding body dies for my 243ai. I was going to sell one and was asked if it was a small base die and I said I dint think but I would check. The dies are marked differently and I wanted to know what is the difference. One is marked 243imp 40* body 2t the other is 243imp 40* v2. Can anybody tell me the difference? The length is different inside and outside also. One I got by itself the other one came with the competition match bushing neck die set.
Redding small base body dies are sold by themselves if I am not mistaken.And will have an SB marked on them.
 
The likelihood that a production Redding 243 AI die would be "small base" is very small. If it was a custom die like Whidden or others that's a different story. And as "barefooter56" pointed out Redding would almost certainly stamp a custom shop die to so indicate it is non-standard.

If you happen to have a set of pin gages, you could probe the dies with, say, a .471" gage and see how deep it goes into each die, really easy to determine to +- .001" with a 6" dial indicator.
-
 
I'm pretty sure the number/letter combo is for lot numbers of that run of dies for heat treat, quality control and tracability.

ie: if they make 100 dies for a given cartridge and one is returned with a problem, they will have an idea of what needs to be fixed and how many other bad dies might be out there.
 
I'm pretty sure the number/letter combo is for lot numbers of that run of dies for heat treat, quality control and tracability.

ie: if they make 100 dies for a given cartridge and one is returned with a problem, they will have an idea of what needs to be fixed and how many other bad dies might be out there.


The last numbers are date and lot
 
The date codes make sense but there is a difference in the outside lenght. I guess I need to fire a few then size them in each and then measure them.
 
The date codes make sense but there is a difference in the outside lenght. I guess I need to fire a few then size them in each and then measure them.

Having just read an interesting post here on sizing, you may consider letting your brass "cook, dwell" at the top stroke for 4-5 seconds, withdraw a bit, rotate the case, repeat to get as accurate a reading as possible. This would help negate spring back as a variable and maybe give a more accurate idea of what you have.
I wish I had a set of gage pins but too expensive for me, an average guy. We had a Vidmar with drawers full of them in one shop and boy, does it spoil you.
 
Having just read an interesting post here on sizing, you may consider letting your brass "cook, dwell" at the top stroke for 4-5 seconds, withdraw a bit, rotate the case, repeat to get as accurate a reading as possible. This would help negate spring back as a variable and maybe give a more accurate idea of what you have.
I wish I had a set of gage pins but too expensive for me, an average guy. We had a Vidmar with drawers full of them in one shop and boy, does it spoil you.
Yes sir I agree with you on the dwell time and rotating. I have been doing that for a few years now. And yea I hear you on the gage pins. Maybe one day!!
 

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