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F Class TR Technique?

I have an older Palma Rifle that I would like to try out in F Class. My background is Highpower XTC and a couple mid range meets.

Rather than asking what type this or that to use, I would like to ask about the technique in general. Since cheaper bipods only have basic elevation adjustments, how does the shooter fine tune the elevation. I have looked at some rests for the butt of the rifle and see that some are angled and some are flat. It seems that the flat ones would would allow better, more consistent recoil, but the angles ones would help (?) with elevation adjustments.

So again, how does the shooter fine tune the elevation, especially between shots?

Thanks
Richard
 
I shoot TR with a converted Palma rifle. I like the taper on the stock for elevation adjustments. Seems a lot easier than the alternatives. In practice, it only takes a very slight bump forward or aft to nail your elevation.
 
I prefer a flat keel, and I squeeze the rear bag for fine adjustments. These days, a lot of people use the Joypod, but they all seem to take a lot longer to make their adjustments, which can be frustrating in a team situation if you are under the pump and time is running out
 
I prefer a flat keel, and I squeeze the rear bag for fine adjustments. These days, a lot of people use the Joypod, but they all seem to take a lot longer to make their adjustments, which can be frustrating in a team situation if you are under the pump and time is running out
I use a Joypod. I personally take a few extra seconds to line-up again, because I reach forward with my left arm to re-align and center the reticle into the general area I'm aiming at; however, once I do that, the joystick on the Joypod allows me to re align my shots very quickly. Also, if I need to make a wind adjustment, the joystick is extremely fast.

Btw, I use a flat rear bag, because all my adjustments are made with the joystick on the bipod, so I'm just looking for the rear back to consistently track the stock at the same elevation.
 
I shoot F/TR with only enough grip to be legal; i.e. the butt touches my shoulder, or at least the part of my shirt between the butt and my shoulder. I don't have any cheek weld at all. The slight taper on my stock allows elevation tuning by moving the gun fore and aft, sliding on the Teflon-tape coated ski feet on my bi-pod. I set the cross hairs just below the intended POI and do the last tiny bit of elevation fine-tuning by pressing down on the rear part of the stock where I removed the adjustable cheep piece.

This may not be the best technique, but it works to put me first or second in most local matches. Of course when you're well into your 70's with blood pressure off the chart and a pulse rate measured in Khz you try to avoid touching the rifle at all for fear of damaging the scope internals. ;)
 
If you are using a 'cheaper' bipod, such as a Harris (or clone thereof), preferably with the notches, you use the bipod up front for your 'coarse' adjustment, then slide the angled toe of the stock for your 'fine' adjustment, and then finally squeeze the bag (ears if you have them) for the 'extra-fine' adjustment. Thats the way it was done for years.

The toe of a Palma or XTC stock tends to have a sharper angle than is (currently) preferred for F/TR. Some people like completely flat toes on their stock, but that necessitates that *all* the coarse/fine adjustment be done with the bipod. For models with a mariner's wheel, thats not too bad. With a Joy-Pod... it can be a PITA. I'm 6'4" and still have to get out of position to adjust the off side leg. If your home range is nice and level, no worries. If you travel, or shoot in matches where you change yard lines and/or firing points between stages... getting situated with a Joy-Pod gets real old, real fast. Once they are set, though... very nice. A slight taper to the toe makes them a lot less obnoxious to get set up.

A number of top shooters these days are using stocks with a *slight* amount of taper - 3-5 degrees - to allow a little fine-tuning at the back end of the gun, a mariner wheel bipod up front for the coarse adjustment, and thats about it. Maybe just a fuzz of pressure on the grip to fine-tune the aiming point, and consistent shoulder/cheek pressure and there you have it.
 
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I don't like a truly flat bottom on the buttstock. I like to be able to adjust my elevation by moving the rifle. I think all of my stocks have about 3/8 of an inch of drop from the grip to the heel. I use a joypod these days (but my backup is a Duplin), and quite to the contrary of being slow more than one person has commented that I shoot fast, and I live in the spotting scope until I decide to roll in and break a shot.

My joyod technique is to use it for what I'll call medium-fine adjustments up and down and move the rifle for fine adjustments. I find that there is too much flex in the joypod adjustment to use it 100% of the time. I just finished a match this weekend and for the life of me I can't tell you if I use the joypod 100% for windage holds or not. I think again it's a medium fine adjustment But in any case I usually break a shot with in a couple of seconds after I come out of the scope. I find the joypod much faster for me as a team shooter if the coach calls a hold that is way off from what I anticipated becauase I don't have to move the rifle to get on call. If the coach calls on the last call i promise you he can't change his mind, the call is still in the air when the bullet leaves.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. This is exactly what I was looking for and I've taken a couple more steps towards making it happen. I'm excited! I'm on a budget so things may progress slowly but putting all together is also fun, so I'll enjoy this part of it too.

To Mozilla, I am currently 71 years young and still trying to keep up with many who are younger, but I haven't given up yet. If nothing else I'm keeping the gray matter working!

Thanks again to everyone,
Richard
 
I use a joypod these days (but my backup is a Duplin), and quite to the contrary of being slow more than one person has commented that I shoot fast, and I live in the spotting scope until I decide to roll in and break a shot.

Wade,

Read what I said. SETTING UP the Joy-Pod on un-even firing points where it becomes a process of roughly aligning the gun, get up, adjust one or both legs, get back down behind the gun and check the alignment / range of motion, get up and adjust one or both legs again, get down behind the gun to check, get back up to adjust one leg one more notch... crap, the $&@#!ing ratchet slipped and the whole side dropped down, time to start over... that part sucks. Once the whole thing is set up and aligned with the target and the rear bag settled in so the range of adjustment stays centered on the target... then yes, its very nice, and very fast to use. I've found myself getting rushed during a Fullbore style match where the prep time isn't enough, and you can't just take another 5 minutes of your block time to finish getting situated - your shooting partner is chomping at the bit to get started (and rightfully so). Like I said, it's a very nice bipod... but it may not suite everyone's shooting style.

Monte
 

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