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One Extra Thing Beyond Basics to Improve Accuracy

I have a friend who got into reloading about two years ago. Frankly, even though I have been reloading for over 30 years, I believe his techniques are beyond what I use. He asked me what was the one thing I would recommend beyond the basics to improve accuracy. I told him that what I chose years ago when faced with that "dilemma" was to get a higher quality bullet seating die. I have Forster seating dies for every caliber I shoot to fulfill that purpose.

Assuming the basics are what is at the beginning of a reloading manual, fl size every time and de-prime (trim if needed), prime, charge, seat bullet, etc. and assuming basics include to be consistent in all measurements (powder charge, seating depth, etc.), what other single technique and/or device would you recommend to an individual with the same question? Thanks in advance. Maybe he and I can learn something here.
 
I have a Forster Ultra Micrometer Seating die. However, I consider it more of a convenience item, than an item to improve accuracy. The real secret behind seating is finding a way to measure where your bullet ogive sits relative to the lands, and doing load testing to see how much jump or jam your bullet/barrel likes.

If I was to give out another secret it would be using the Forster Bushing Bump neck sizer die, and setting it up as per Forster instructions to resize 2/3rds of the neck instead of all the neck. This leaves the last 1/3 of the neck unsized to ensure your cartridge sits concentric with your bore. I believe this technique is most helpful to those who do not have a custom tight neck chamber. The method is described in this Forster Bushing Bump Die document.
 
RonAKA, your post is interesting to me in that what I posted and what you did were a toss up to me as my offer of the "one thing". I think people often misunderstand that the correct measurement for length of the round should be to the ogive and not to the tip.
 
Buy the very best front rest and rear bag set up you can afford.
It will accurize every rifle that you own. They will all immediately start shooting better groups with no extra effort, time or cost at the loading bench.
The components you save will pay for the rest. Time at the range will be more enjoyable and productive.
 
RonAKA, your post is interesting to me in that what I posted and what you did were a toss up to me as my offer of the "one thing". I think people often misunderstand that the correct measurement for length of the round should be to the ogive and not to the tip.
Exception: When it needs to be measured oal for magazine feeding. Thats many times the case and in that case to the lands only matters when achieving accuracy, not feeding.
 
Being able to measure, record, qualify any and all aspects of loading, in as fine of a resolution deemed necessary. Measurement equipment I feel is far more important than just trusting expensive dies/presses/bullets... trust but verify.

Learning where, how, and what affect each measurable variable has is paramount to precision reloading.
 
Not so much what as where...doing your workups loading at the range. This allows you to get the job done much more efficiently and precisely. My friends who do not do it this way seem to take forever to arrive at a final solution and even when they have, they haven't. That and something unrelated to loading, using something(s) that allow you to look at what the wind is doing between you and the target.
 
To expand on what Fast14riod said, I'll add this: As he said, the most important single thing to improve precision is to know how your loads shoot. And by that I mean, really know and understand what's going on. I know some reloaders who have all the gear, all the skill, and use the best components. Yet they don't know how their "good stuff" actually performs because they measure their groups with a coin or a carpenters tape and scribble some stuff in a rumpled old notebook.

I recommend something similar to what I do. I make a load sheet for each batch of ammo using M.S. Word. The data includes just about every specification for the bullet, case, primer, seating depth, case volume, etc. I also add a comment section and when I return with the results I add the collected data along with more comments and usually a graph or two. Then I print the page and keep it much like many people keep a hand written notebook. I try to log each and every thing I might wonder about if I wanted to duplicate the recipe in the future. I number these recipes with a sequence number unique to each gun I shoot. The subsequent load sheet amounts to copying a similar sheet, renaming the file, changing the date and a couple of other pieces of data. That's a lot easier and/or more informative than a hand written range log.

I print 10 targets on letter sized card stock with an offset POI. I chronograph every round. After a range session I scan the pages into the On Target scoring software where I mark and measure each bullet hole along with comments about that particular group; i.e. recipe number and whatever I'm testing that day like charge weight or seating depth.

I pay the most attention to the Mean Radius of 5 shot groups at 100 yards in order to develop competition ammo for 600 yard F-Class matches. Calculating Mean Radius is not easy if you do it by hand, but On Target provides it automatically. Of course, I also study group size (converted to MOA), MV, and SD.

The On Target software lets me keep a file for each range session as an Excel worksheet where I can add MV data, powder type, etc. Then I can sort by MOA, or Mean Radius, or Group Height, or whatever and study the day's data in order to try and make sense of what happened. That way I can see, for example, which charge weight produced the lowest Mean Radius for every round fired from that barrel. Or, if I want, I can see how SD relates to Muzzle Velocity during the past month. Most times I ask Excel to produce a graph which is particularly useful when doing load work ups.

I copy that day's data and merge it with a master Excel spread sheet for each gun. I can easily tell you, for example, how the average MOA or Mean Radius of 80gr Berger VLD bullets using Varget compares to 90gr Berger VLDs using Vihtavuori N-140. In a few seconds I can tell you which powder produces the highest MV. Or how neck tension relates to SDs. In other words, I can study any parameter having to do with precision and get a good idea of what works and what doesn't and how one load compares with another.

If you don't know exactly how your best loads perform and, more importantly, how they compare with your other loads, then you can't fine tune and develop a winning recipe. When it comes to shooting matches, those guys who did a little casual testing and found a recipe which shoots "pretty good" are not usually the ones taking home the trophies.
 
I have a friend who got into reloading about two years ago. Frankly, even though I have been reloading for over 30 years, I believe his techniques are beyond what I use. He asked me what was the one thing I would recommend beyond the basics to improve accuracy. I told him that what I chose years ago when faced with that "dilemma" was to get a higher quality bullet seating die. I have Forster seating dies for every caliber I shoot to fulfill that purpose.

Assuming the basics are what is at the beginning of a reloading manual, fl size every time and de-prime (trim if needed), prime, charge, seat bullet, etc. and assuming basics include to be consistent in all measurements (powder charge, seating depth, etc.), what other single technique and/or device would you recommend to an individual with the same question? Thanks in advance. Maybe he and I can learn something here.

You didn't say what the rifle is used for. What size groups are you looking for? If a particular bullet doesn't give the results you want in a reasonable amount of time you have to be willing to try something else.
 
You didn't say what the rifle is used for. What size groups are you looking for? If a particular bullet doesn't give the results you want in a reasonable amount of time you have to be willing to try something else.

My bad. Hunting only with lots of practice. Big game and varmints and predators. He's just trying to enjoy his hobby more. Not a long range buff; but, on prairie dogs will shoot to 600 with varmints under that and big game generally 400 and in.
 
I know this is not in the repertoire of "components / loading regimen", however, it will either make or break accuracy, is in a barrel. Having a G-O-O-D barrel sure makes life easier! I have had many "competitively accurate" barrels, some "finicky" barrels that take some doing to get them competitive, some just plain bad barrels and a couple of "hummers". With a really good barrel, it will shoot very well with almost anything it is fed. Others you have to work for. I get pretty dang detail oriented in my loading techniques. Even then, some barrels will give you fits. I say all this to say that there are times where loading technique, using the proper or even best dies etc..etc.. can not make a bad barrel shoot. There are more than a few times where you can not "get more accurate" no matter how you try. If you end up in a situation like that, screw off the barrel and get another one! I have a "straight" .284 that fits that bill right now! No matter what I have tried, it shoots terrible>>> period! Good components can't help a bad barrel. I am not saying you have a bad barrel, but when things "taint workin", that is a good place to look..
 
BigSky

Lots of great advice listed but for me the # 1 area (not device) that greatly improved my precision reloading was finding a couple mentors that helped me understand all the little details needed to shoot small consistently. Couple other things:
- Read a bunch on the subject
- Load at the range like Boyd mentioned
- Test all variables
- Take/keep detailed notes
- Remain open to try new techniques/components

Good shooting

Rich
 
BigSky
Lots of great advice listed but for me the # 1 area (not device) that greatly improved my precision reloading was finding a couple mentors that helped me understand all the little details needed to shoot small consistently.
Rich

Me too. For this guy, I was that mentor. I think he could be my mentor now. At least he still feels he can come to me for advice. Maybe he's just throwing me a bone.
 
I know this is not in the repertoire of "components / loading regimen", however, it will either make or break accuracy, is in a barrel. Having a G-O-O-D barrel sure makes life easier! I have had many "competitively accurate" barrels, some "finicky" barrels that take some doing to get them competitive, some just plain bad barrels and a couple of "hummers". With a really good barrel, it will shoot very well with almost anything it is fed. Others you have to work for. I get pretty dang detail oriented in my loading techniques. Even then, some barrels will give you fits. I say all this to say that there are times where loading technique, using the proper or even best dies etc..etc.. can not make a bad barrel shoot. There are more than a few times where you can not "get more accurate" no matter how you try. If you end up in a situation like that, screw off the barrel and get another one! I have a "straight" .284 that fits that bill right now! No matter what I have tried, it shoots terrible>>> period! Good components can't help a bad barrel. I am not saying you have a bad barrel, but when things "taint workin", that is a good place to look..
Yup, I agree, sometimes the best answer to ones load development is a barrel vise.
 
tons of great advice. It all comes down to quality tools, consistant, repeatable technique, and GOOD RECORDS
 

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