Remington 700 trigger ?

[hoz53]

Well don't know if anyone will answer this but here it is. How do the pins holding an old style R700 trigger together come out. It looks to me like they have to be punched out. Also r they just held in by friction or something else? Thanks Hoz

 

[ab_bentley]

Well don't know if anyone will answer this but here it is. How do the pins holding an old style R700 trigger together come out. It looks to me like they have to be punched out. Also r they just held in by friction or something else? Thanks Hoz

Punched out, they're tapered or they're supposed to be.

 

[Dans40X]

There are 2each prick punch marks on the underside of the action to hold the pins in place until the action is installed into a stock....which will keep the pins captive.
The aft pin needs to be proud by 1/8" to ensure the bolt stop lever works properly.

Punch the 1/8" diameter pins out from RH side to LH side for a RH action....opposite for a LH action.
Installation is opposite of removal-installed from LH side to RH side.

Tapered pins-they are not.

 

[Riesel]

Held in by "friction", they're tight.

 

[hoz53]

Punched out, they're tapered or they're supposed to be.

Thank You -- I guess they are rounded to make it harder to get them started. I will get them out.

There are 2each prick punch marks on the underside of the action to hold the pins in place until the action is installed into a stock....which will keep the pins captive.
The aft pin needs to be proud by 1/8" to ensure the bolt stop lever works properly.

Punch the 1/8" diameter pins out from RH side to LH side for a RH action....opposite for a LH action.
Installation is opposite of removal-installed from LH side to RH side.

Tapered pins-they are not.

thanks Dan--I should have been more specific- I am talking about the pins in the trigger housing that hold the trigger ect in there as I want to take a trigger apart.

 

[hoz53]

Held in by "friction", they're tight.

They are tight for sure. I wonder if they are peened over to make it hard to get the housing apart. I have one of these rem factory triggers that doesn't work and it's got a lot if hardened gunk I see inside it so I don't have much to lose taking it apart. Thanks

 

[butchlambert]

Ow jeez, take the trigger apart??

 

[hoz53]

Thank You -- I guess they are rounded to make it harder to get them started. I will get them out.

thanks Dan--I should have been more specific- I am talking about the pins in the trigger housing that hold the trigger ect in there as I want to take a trigger apart.

Ow jeez, take the trigger apart??

yeah it's broke anyway so what the heck and there's a better trigger in the rifle already.

 

[RWO]

I believe they are actually rivets. Grind off the heads one one side and you should be able to drive them out with good steel punch of the right size.

RWO

 

[hoz53]

I believe they are actually rivets. Grind off the heads one one side and you should be able to drive them out with good steel punch of the right size.

RWO

RWO. I think they are to. I will work on it. Thanks

 

[Dans40X]

Remove the 3each adjustment screws from the housing.
The longest "piloted" screw is the fwd/top overtravel screw.
The "un-piloted" screw is the aft/sear engagement screw.
Remove the connector piece from the trigger lever.
Remove the sear/safety bar spring.
Remove the pull weight spring from the fwd/bottom screw hole.
Remove the "mutant E clip" from the safety lever pivot pin.
Remove the safety lever spring & detent ball.
Push the safety pivot pin out of the housing.
Remove the safety lever.

Punch the 1/8" diameter trigger lever pivot pin out of the housing.

The trigger group is now disassembled as far as it needs to be for any work/cleaning.

Drop the gunked up housing into solvent & let soak for a couple hours.
Rinse housing w/ acetone & inspect for foreign residue.
Repeat if necessary.

Re-assemble.

 

[RW]

Remove the 3each adjustment screws from the housing.
The longest "piloted" screw is the fwd/top overtravel screw.
The "un-piloted" screw is the aft/sear engagement screw.
Remove the connector piece from the trigger lever.
Remove the sear/safety bar spring.
Remove the pull weight spring from the fwd/bottom screw hole.
Remove the "mutant E clip" from the safety lever pivot pin.
Remove the safety lever spring & detent ball.
Push the safety pivot pin out of the housing.
Remove the safety lever.

Punch the 1/8" diameter trigger lever pivot pin out of the housing.

The trigger group is now disassembled as far as it needs to be for any work/cleaning.

Drop the gunked up housing into solvent & let soak for a couple hours.
Rinse housing w/ acetone & inspect for foreign residue.
Repeat if necessary.

Re-assemble.

My compliments to Dans 40x I have posted similar things in the past and you would have thought that I was asking how to carve out the heart of Christ and if I was thinking of tinkering with a Rem 700 trigger or adjusting one i should only let the chosen people do this!! All i wanted to do was stone one and see what I could do to improve one, RW

 

[hoz53]

Remove the 3each adjustment screws from the housing.
The longest "piloted" screw is the fwd/top overtravel screw.
The "un-piloted" screw is the aft/sear engagement screw.
Remove the connector piece from the trigger lever.
Remove the sear/safety bar spring.
Remove the pull weight spring from the fwd/bottom screw hole.
Remove the "mutant E clip" from the safety lever pivot pin.
Remove the safety lever spring & detent ball.
Push the safety pivot pin out of the housing.
Remove the safety lever.

Punch the 1/8" diameter trigger lever pivot pin out of the housing.

The trigger group is now disassembled as far as it needs to be for any work/cleaning.

Drop the gunked up housing into solvent & let soak for a couple hours.
Rinse housing w/ acetone & inspect for foreign residue.
Repeat if necessary.

Re-assemble.

Thanks for the NoBS reply Dan. I will try it. I've sent you a PM

 

[Dans40X]

A Standard pre 2006 Walker design trigger group when adjusted by whomever-
CAN NOT repeat CAN NOT have any backlash between the trigger lever & the connector piece or you have a dangerous situation in your hands asking for an accidental discharge.

People KILL people firearms do not!!!

Keep the precision instrument clean & oil/grease free.
A drop of thin(Rem oil) between the bolt release lever & the trigger group side plate to eliminate any trapped moisture is all the lubrication that is required.

For every action there is an equal & opposite reaction.
A sear engagement adjustment will increase or decrease pull weight & vise versus.

 

[hoz53]

A Standard pre 2006 Walker design trigger group when adjusted by whomever-
CAN NOT repeat CAN NOT have any backlash between the trigger lever & the connector piece or you have a dangerous situation in your hands asking for an accidental discharge.

People KILL people firearms do not!!!

Keep the precision instrument clean & oil/grease free.
A drop of thin(Rem oil) between the bolt release lever & the trigger group side plate to eliminate any trapped moisture is all the lubrication that is required.

For every action there is an equal & opposite reaction.
A sear engagement adjustment will increase or decrease pull weight & vise versus.

Thanks Dan