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Carbide neck bushings

I have bought all my carbide bushings from Bud Mundy.
(For 6PPC, 30BR & 6Dasher).

Sometimes he had them in stock, sometimes I had to wait,
but he always came through for me.

Bud's bushing are carbide, not hardened or coated steel bushings.

email and see if he can help you bcmundy@earthlink.net
 
I buy all my carbide bushings from Bud Mundy or Benchrite when I see them at a match.
I do this so I can verify the actual bushing size with my calipers. Have not found 1 that matches what is engraved. Carbide bushings are my only choice.

JD
 
I am a machinist by trade. I understand the Rockwell C hardness scale very well. I am wondering the purpose of using carbide. Does the manufacturer of the carbide units hold better tolerances? Has anyone worn a steel one out? Is it for smoothness with no need for lube? Thanks in advance.
 
I am a machinist by trade. I understand the Rockwell C hardness scale very well. I am wondering the purpose of using carbide. Does the manufacturer of the carbide units hold better tolerances? Has anyone worn a steel one out? Is it for smoothness with no need for lube? Thanks in advance.

I used to use Carbide and TiN bushings... cuz more is better, right?

But I have switched to steel, and it was NOT to save money. And steel bushings do NOT wear out.
 
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I am a machinist by trade. I understand the Rockwell C hardness scale very well. I am wondering the purpose of using carbide. Does the manufacturer of the carbide units hold better tolerances? Has anyone worn a steel one out? Is it for smoothness with no need for lube? Thanks in advance.
The reasons for using carbide bushings are 1/ no lube required 2/ they are precision ground (generally offered in 0.0005" increments) and therefore you get the size indicated on the etching 3/the sizes are etched on .....precluding any deformities caused by stamping 4/ will not rust in normal use. Once you use carbide bushings it's hard to use any other. IMHO, TiN coated bushings are the worst. I'll use Wilson bushings if the size is not available in carbide.
On a side note, you cannot accurately measure bushings with a caliper.
 
I buy all my carbide bushings from Bud Mundy or Benchrite when I see them at a match.
I do this so I can verify the actual bushing size with my calipers. Have not found 1 that matches what is engraved. Carbide bushings are my only choice.

JD

You are kidding aren't you!
 
The reasons for using carbide bushings are 1/ no lube required 2/ they are precision ground (generally offered in 0.0005" increments) and therefore you get the size indicated on the etching 3/the sizes are etched on .....precluding any deformities caused by stamping 4/ will not rust in normal use. Once you use carbide bushings it's hard to use any other. IMHO, TiN coated bushings are the worst. I'll use Wilson bushings if the size is not available in carbide.
On a side note, you cannot accurately measure bushings with a caliper.
I'll agree with you 100% Lamar.
 
A small bore gauge from Starret, a dial bore gauge (Sunnen preferred) or if you are experienced quality telescoping gauges are practical to measure. You could also mic the OD and use a ball mic to check wall thickness to ensure concentricity, double the wall thickness and you can extrapolate the bore..... Or are you fellas using a CMM to get it right.


Personally I am thinking anything stamped on the OD could influence the bore if it was done after it the critical dimensions are finished less so if stamped on the end but still possible. So etching is a good thing but if the identification is done prior to honing....?As far as concentricity is concerned I guess I don't have the confidence in the design and machining of the die to believe that if it were to be .0005 out of concentricity that it would affect the final product. I have OCD but I am failing to see the reward here with the exception of lube free.

If this is the only benefit I if you have the coin it's all good. Thanks for replying everyone.
 

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