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Barrel Nut torque, Ruger Precision Rifle

Jeff A

Formerly known as BikeEffects
Silver $$ Contributor
I just received my new Criterion barrel for my RPR. It's chambered in 6.5x47 Lapua. So I called called Ruger Customer Service to get the official word on the recommended torque. The young lady who took the question came up with "70 in lbs". I quibbled and she put me on hold and when she returned she informed me that Ruger does not give out that information. I have heard some numbers batted around but does anyone know what the actual recommendation is?
 
Reccommended torque for AR weapons varies from 75 to 90 ft lbs. The PRS barrel torque should be close to 70ft lbs and the action checked with go/nogo
gauges.

Rpbump
 
Although the Ruger uses a barrel nut, it differs greatly in that the barrel screws into the receiver as opposed to using a barrel extension.i have a set of gauges. Where did you get your numbers?
 
I have run 30-50 ft/lbs on Savage and Remington along with Ar's, I have never had one come unscrewed .You could always see how much it takes to unscrew the one you have on.
John
 
The OP says he was told INCH POUNDS. 70 inch pounds is roughly 5.8 FOOT Pounds. Something is wrong here. Is that why he "quibbled?"
 
"You could always see how much it takes to unscrew the one you have on."

Not a good indicator of installation torque due to thread deformation, corrosion, lubrication that may have wicked into the joint or lubrication that was used during installation no longer being present or locking agents such as Loctitie.

Check a machinery or engineering handbook for recommended torque for comparable sized and material fasteners if you are not comfortable using AR, Savage or Remage torque ranges.

If I were a betting man I would guess somewhere in the 55-60 Ft/Lb range would do just fine.
 
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I would try 50ftlbs not 70inlbs instead of the 70ftlbs mentioned. I forgot that the PRS barrel is screwed in vs an AR barrel.

perry42
 
I torqued my RPR nut to 60ft.lbs. when putting on a replacement barrel (LRI). I can't recall where I got the spec from but it shoots great and has about 1300+ rounds through it. I checked the nut about 150 rds back and it did not move with 60 ft.lbs applied. I did put a little anti-seize on the barrel and barrel nut threads upon installation. The torque info may have come from either Chad Dixon or folks on Snider's Hide forum.
 
I torqued my RPR nut to 60ft.lbs. when putting on a replacement barrel (LRI). I can't recall where I got the spec from but it shoots great and has about 1300+ rounds through it. I checked the nut about 150 rds back and it did not move with 60 ft.lbs applied. I did put a little anti-seize on the barrel and barrel nut threads upon installation. The torque info may have come from either Chad Dixon or folks on Snider's Hide forum.
 
Trying to remove my Ruger barrel for a swap. Do you turn the barrel nut so that it moves off the receiver then screw the receiver off, then barrel nut. I'm struggling here broke my armorers wrench.
Or do you just turn the nut as if you were therading the receiver and nut off together.
So looking from but to muzzle do I go clockwise or counter clockwise first? To break the nut off from the receiver.
 
Trying to remove my Ruger barrel for a swap. Do you turn the barrel nut so that it moves off the receiver then screw the receiver off, then barrel nut. I'm struggling here broke my armorers wrench.
Or do you just turn the nut as if you were therading the receiver and nut off together.
So looking from but to muzzle do I go clockwise or counter clockwise first? To break the nut off from the receiver.


Got it. Little more torque and holding the action static and it loosened up. Clockwise on nut counterclockwise on action.
 

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