Who uses lens filters on their spotting or rifle scope?

[maxpower]

Does anyone out there use lens filters on either their rifle scope or spotting scopes?
I was wondering if a UV/haze filter might make it easier to find bullet holes in bright conditions. I realise they cant get rid of mirage, but can they help in other ways?
How about polarizing lenses? I read they will move the image around as they are rotated, do they all do this? If so, will they be of any use on a spotting scope?

 

[Outrider27]

I run a UV filter on all my camera lenses and spotting scopes - they're a lot cheaper than the objective lens in the event of a problem. While my main reason for using UV filters is mechanical protection, I have not found them to degrade performance at the range under any conditions I have ever encountered.

 

[Jose_Luis_G]

I'm not a scope shooter but a peep-sight one, say Olimpic Match and 300 meter Match.
In all modalities we widely use the polarized filters. It is true that if you adjust the polarized filter wrong, you may find changes in the point of impact.
That often happens during the competition when sun comes and later fades, but the only reason is that the polarizing angle is not properly adjusted. When you do it right, the point of impact does not change.

 

[maxpower]

I run a UV filter on all my camera lenses and spotting scopes - they're a lot cheaper than the objective lens in the event of a problem. While my main reason for using UV filters is mechanical protection, I have not found them to degrade performance at the range under any conditions I have ever encountered.

So, have you found any times when an IR/UV filter actually improves performance?

 

[maxpower]

I'm not a scope shooter but a peep-sight one, say Olimpic Match and 300 meter Match.
In all modalities we widely use the polarized filters. It is true that if you adjust the polarized filter wrong, you may find changes in the point of impact.
That often happens during the competition when sun comes and later fades, but the only reason is that the polarizing angle is not properly adjusted. When you do it right, the point of impact does not change.

So are you saying that when the filter is installed, as the sun moves, or cloud comes over, the point of impact moves? Or just that as you screw the filter in, the point of impact moves depending on which way the polarizing is facing?

 

[RockyMtnMan]

So, have you found any times when an IR/UV filter actually improves performance?

Yes...on cheap glass. Not gonna do much for you if you have a top shelf spotter.

Might actually hurt performance on glass like Swarovski, Zeiss, Leica, Kowa, Meopta HD, etc. Because unless you spend a bunch of money on a top quality filter, the lens filter glass will probably be of a much lesser quality. I'm not actually sure if there are even any filters that can equal the quality of today's top shelf ED glass

 

[JRS]

If you think you need a UV filter, for whatever reason, stay away from the cheap junk. Cheap will result in a negative impact with contrast and sharpness. Use B&W filters.

 

[dkhunt14]

I'm not a scope shooter but a peep-sight one, say Olimpic Match and 300 meter Match.
In all modalities we widely use the polarized filters. It is true that if you adjust the polarized filter wrong, you may find changes in the point of impact.
That often happens during the competition when sun comes and later fades, but the only reason is that the polarizing angle is not properly adjusted. When you do it right, the point of impact does not change.

The difference between the sun in and out can be 6 to 8 inches at 1000 yards. That is without a filter. The light changes, just change point of impact. Matt

 

[Jose_Luis_G]

So are you saying that when the filter is installed, as the sun moves, or cloud comes over, the point of impact moves? Or just that as you screw the filter in, the point of impact moves depending on which way the polarizing is facing?

Yes, you are right. For every position of the sun there is a unique place (orientation) for the polarizer.
As son as the sun changes position, you must re-adjust the orientation of the polarizer.
The other reason, related to the clouds, is that when there are clouds, you need to take the polarizer away, because the sight becomes too dark with it.
Bear in mind that I speak about naked eye peep sight, in which there is no magnification at all.

 

[JRS]

Does anyone out there use lens filters on either their rifle scope or spotting scopes?
I was wondering if a UV/haze filter might make it easier to find bullet holes in bright conditions. I realise they cant get rid of mirage, but can they help in other ways?
How about polarizing lenses? I read they will move the image around as they are rotated, do they all do this? If so, will they be of any use on a spotting scope?

If you understand how a circular polarizing filter works, and the effects it creates, you'll realize why you don't want one on a scope.

 

[Fred Bohl]

You might find the attached helpful.

 

[JRS]

You might find the attached helpful.

Thank you, Mr. Bohl.

 

[dreever]

I run a UV filter on all my camera lenses and spotting scopes - they're a lot cheaper than the objective lens in the event of a problem. While my main reason for using UV filters is mechanical protection, I have not found them to degrade performance at the range under any conditions I have ever encountered.

I'll second that. A scratched filter is a throw away item.

Danny

 

[Keith Glasscock]

The difference between the sun in and out can be 6 to 8 inches at 1000 yards. That is without a filter. The light changes, just change point of impact. Matt

Matt,

I've heard the rules of thumb about this and don't doubt it exists. I'm just confused as to the direction of needed correction.

If the target goes from shadow to bright light and the shooter doesn't adjust, where is the bullet going to hit (assume using a scope for 1000 yard bench rest or f class)?

Thanks

 

[dkhunt14]

Matt,

I've heard the rules of thumb about this and don't doubt it exists. I'm just confused as to the direction of needed correction.

If the target goes from shadow to bright light and the shooter doesn't adjust, where is the bullet going to hit (assume using a scope for 1000 yard bench rest or f class)?

Thanks

When the sun gets brighter the shots go up. Most times the difference between sun and slight cloud cover is right around 4 inches. Matt

 

[CharlieNC]

If you understand how a circular polarizing filter works, and the effects it creates, you'll realize why you don't want one on a scope.

So I suppose the same can be said for wearing polarized sunglasses????

 

[Keith Glasscock]

When the sun gets brighter the shots go up. Most times the difference between sun and slight cloud cover is right around 4 inches. Matt

So a shooter should dial down when it gets brighter? I'll try that at the next match. It might improve my score a little...

If it's 4" at 1K, is it around 2.5" @ 600?

 

[Jose_Luis_G]

So I suppose the same can be said for wearing polarized sunglasses????

Polarized sunglasses cannot be adjusted, so the angle of the polarizer is for sure fixed in the same orientation.
Using this kind of glasses does not make any sense to me, since you need a different orientation depending on the angle the light comes from.
If the polarizer cannot be adjusted it does not help at all to use them.

 

[maxpower]

Polarized sunglasses cannot be adjusted, so the angle of the polarizer is for sure fixed in the same orientation.
Using this kind of glasses does not make any sense to me, since you need a different orientation depending on the angle the light comes from.
If the polarizer cannot be adjusted it does not help at all to use them.

So, it seems to me that a polarizing lens on a spotting scope may be of some benefit, but in a rifle scope, it may move the POI around? I will likely try a IR-UV-haze filter on my rifle scope and a polarized lens on my spotter to see how it goes.

 

[JRS]

So, it seems to me that a polarizing lens on a spotting scope may be of some benefit, but in a rifle scope, it may move the POI around? I will likely try a IR-UV-haze filter on my rifle scope and a polarized lens on my spotter to see how it goes.

Make sure the thread pitch and diameter is correct on both. If not, you can quickly destroy the threads on your scope. B&W or Heliopan. Stay away from the plastic lenses and aluminum rings.