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20 moa rail

I have a bat tactical action with the 20 moa rail milled into the reciever and I can not get my shots to come down far enough at 100 yards or even 200 yards. I'm about 5 inches high at 100 and I'm wondering what to do. I have a nightforce shv that should have enough elevation to get there but it wont.

Thanks in advance for your help
Shaun White
 
Try some offset rings to get it back closer to zero. 5moa isnt much but if you go the full 20 you may get back into the optical center if youre only wanting to shoot 100-200
 
That optic has a LOT of elevation adjustment. Did you start out by adjusting the scope so that the reticle was optically zeroed?? If you bought the scope used, most second-owner optics have reticles that are not optically centered. You could have started out with the reticle near the limit of it's adjustment range.

Jack
 
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20 MOA shouldn't bottom out a scope. What do you have on the rail? Rings? Adapters?

Where in its range is the windage adjustment? Is it near the middle or one side?

Have to dialed the scope all the way from one end to the other and verified the travel?

Do you have access to a boresighter? It can be used for before and after comparisons when changing equipment.

If you can't figure it out, I live up in the Everett area.
 
20 MOA shouldn't bottom out a scope. What do you have on the rail? Rings? Adapters?

Where in its range is the windage adjustment? Is it near the middle or one side?

Have to dialed the scope all the way from one end to the other and verified the travel?

Do you have access to a boresighter? It can be used for before and after comparisons when changing equipment.

If you can't figure it out, I live up in the Everett area.
I agree with this. I have seen many 12x42 BR scopes with 20 minute rails and they all zero. They only have 40 minutes in them. Matt
 
Truth is. This can and does happen. A friend of mine put a weaver T36 on top of a Savage with an EGW 20 MOA base and could not zero in at 100 or even 200 for that matter. He was about 7 moa high at 100 yards (scope maxed out). I'm not sure if there was a defect in the base or receiver but regardless. There wasn't enough internal adjustment to correct the problem. The easiest thing to do in this instance would be the Signature series rings with inserts.
 
Truth is. This can and does happen. A friend of mine put a weaver T36 on top of a Savage with an EGW 20 MOA base and could not zero in at 100 or even 200 for that matter. He was about 7 moa high at 100 yards (scope maxed out). I'm not sure if there was a defect in the base or receiver but regardless. There wasn't enough internal adjustment to correct the problem. The easiest thing to do in this instance would be the Signature series rings with inserts.
The Weaver has 60 minutes. I would think it should zero with a 20 minute base. If the scope is mounted and you need a lot of minutes of windage this uses up your elevation available. Matt
 
No matter where it was when he bought it hes 5" high now.

WHAT?

All due respect, but a reticle that is not mechanically centered can have an effect on the amount of elevation adjustment available.

For the sake of discussion.....lets say that the SHV is a used optic, and lets say that the first owner had a misaligned base or receiver drilled uneven or whatever, and lets say that the first owner had to use most of the scope's windage to adjust for that misalignment. Now, the OP gets the SHV, and, because the scope was run too far right (or left),the erector tube is placed too close to the inside wall of the external tube/chassis....this alone could result in greatly limiting any positive or negative elevation adjustment.

I agree with Matt that a 20 MOA base means very little to a 100 yd zero on scopes that have 40 to 50 MOA elevation internal adjustment. But that is if the erector is mechanically centered and has the room to move freely.

None of us can know exactly what is going on with white121's rifle. All anyone responding to this OP can hope to achieve is to give him some possible solutions to try.

Jack
 
Lets say you have a scope on your rifle- sighted in at 600yd. You take it off and optically center it. Then you put it back on would you have to adjust it to get it back to where it was at 600? If he removes his scope and optically centers it- do you reckon itll not run out of adjustment again at 100? hes got something wrong- maybe its the scope. maybe its the base.
 
Mr white- ive never seen a problem with the integral bat bases being off. Perhaps your barrel has excessive runout and was not timed correctly letting your windage overtake your elevation adjustment. First thing i would do is swap rings- or at least take them off and measure them to make sure nothin finky is goin on with them such as a slope built in on accident or on purpose and you didnt know. The next Step is to get with your gunsmith and properly mount your scope centered then see why your barrel may be limiting your travel if it is.
 
The Weaver has 60 minutes. I would think it should zero with a 20 minute base. If the scope is mounted and you need a lot of minutes of windage this uses up your elevation available. Matt

While I cannot attest to anyone else's problem. I know for a fact that in this instance everything was done right. Now keep in mind, without the 20 moa base. The scope would have been close or near close to the optical center with the rifle zero'ed in at 200 yards. The rings were solid weaver rings with no build in adjustment and the windage was almost centered. It was a WTH moment.

I also had a 20 moa base (different manufacturer) on my Savage SA with a T36 and still had a few moa adjustment left after being zeroed in at 200 yards . I would like to think that maybe the base was not actually a 20 moa on my friends gun?? I don't know...

Dan
 
Thanks for the input people the problem is I bought the scope brand new put it on my rifle and it did not take much at all to sight in dead on at 100 yards. Since then I drew a moose tag for washington state and opted to get a 300 rum. I took the scope off my bat 308 put it on the 300 rum and sighted it in. Then I put the scope back on my 308 and now I can't get low enough for 100 yards but I could before. And by switch the scope on different rifles i.mean I left the scope rings on it and never adjusted them. Both rifles have picatiny rails and the scope was interchangeable without changing rings at all

Shaun white
 
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If it’s only one set of rings staying with the scope then I’d be looking at how well those rings meshed back up with the rail when the scope w/rings went back on the Bat.

I’ve made note of the settings and have done similar scope swaps back and forth between different guns, returned the settings to what they had been before going by those notes, and a very minimal at most readjustment always get ‘em back to “zeroed”.
 
If it’s only one set of rings staying with the scope then I’d be looking at how well those rings meshed back up with the rail when the scope w/rings went back on the Bat.

I’ve made note of the settings and have done similar scope swaps back and forth between different guns, returned the settings to what they had been before going by those notes, and a very minimal at most readjustment always get ‘em back to “zeroed”.
I\m with Freak on this. I believe I would loosen one set of rings and make sure that the bottom of the rings is indeed bottoming out in the rail. Sounds like the back one is probably your culprit.
 
Sounds like something isn't aligned right. Make sure the cross bolts are in the slots right. They might be holding it up some. Matt
 
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