Wood stock finish question

[mshelton]

I've got a nice walnut stock from Joel Russo that I'm getting around to finishing and I'm unsure about what finish to use.

I've done some really nice tru-oil finishes on shotguns in the past, sand in the first slurry then 2 super thin coats a day for 40 days, turned out great but it's a little too soft of a finish for something I'm going to have riding a bag and rest all the time. I just see it getting screwed up. Thought about an automotive clear coat which would seem ideal but I kinda want to do it myself. Worried too about having too thin of finish that'll pick up the powdered graphite or HBN that's left over on the bags.

Anyone have any recommendations?

 

[GNERGY]

I sent Joel Russo a piece of Ironwood that he made into his A 5 stock for my 338 Ultra mag. I bedded and finished it myself using automotive clear. I bought a cheap apray gun for 39.00 and some 2 part auto clear. I will look for my pics and post them. I was going to post a link to my thread on LRH but they lost me on there some how, I need to get back with Len and get it straightened out.
Tarey


This is the gun I bought and the clear I used.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

You can do the clear coat your self. You can't mess it up, you just sand it and buff it out. Get a clear coat with high solids. Some 2 parts that are quick drying don't dry very hard and are sticky in the bags, then you have to use stock tape. Lay 3 coats on, sand if off to the wood, lay 3 more coats on, sand it back down to wood, now lay 3 more coats on and you should have a nice coat, if the grain sucks the clear in again, sand and repeat until the grain is sealed. PM me if you need help.

 

[mshelton]

Did you guys need any type of special compressor for conditioned air or would just a run of the mill pancake one work?

 

[GNERGY]

Just one of those little compressors, I think the gun comes with a regulator and runs like 35 to 45psi. Just google the name on that paper in the paint gun pic, that is where I got the stuff from.
Tarey

 

[CatShooter]

I have used tru-oil in the past, but never again - it is subject to fungus growth. I have several fine rifle stocks that have to be stripped with paint remover and refinished again.

I now use poly-urethane spray in cans - either semigloss or gloss for deluxe grain woods - it is bullet proof.

 

[Bugs]

pm sent

 

[mshelton]

Thanks for the info all, going to give the spray poly a shot, probably do some test pieces first to get an idea about it.

 

[JRS]

After paying that much money for a stock, shoot it with a automotive clear. DON'T use a polyurethane. It yellows over time. You can always prep the stock, and take it to a body shop to have it clear coated. Most would be happy to do so while they are shooting the clear coat on a vehicle. The cost will be minimal, and you'll be much happier with the finished product.
If Cigarcop happens to chime in, he can tell you what a properly clear coated wood stock looks like. He's seen one that I sprayed 8)

 

[CatShooter]

After paying that much money for a stock, shoot it with a automotive clear. DON'T use a polyurethane. It yellows over time. You can always prep the stock, and take it to a body shop to have it clear coated. Most would be happy to do so while they are shooting the clear coat on a vehicle. The cost will be minimal, and you'll be much happier with the finished product.
If Cigarcop happens to chime in, he can tell you what a properly clear coated wood stock looks like. He's seen one that I sprayed 8)

I have stocks that I did in poly in 1978-1980, and they have not yellowed - maybe you used an inferior brand of poly.

 

[jghoghunter]

If a good quality of poly is used it will not yellow. My dad and I have done many stocks and wood projects. We have 3 commercial grade cabinet shops and a gun stock business in the family to back this up. Good poly will not yellow.

I will also say that I usually will spray my bench rifle stocks with auto clear coat because I'm like a crow I like it to shine and its tough as nails. If you mess it up just buff it out and your back in business, you cannot do that with any poly.

Just my .02.

 

[JRS]

Polyurethane yellows. Period. It is a readily available product, primarily due to the low price. Polycrilic has taken it's place in the woodworking industry.

 

[mshelton]

Well, if one goes the auto clear route, what's used to fill the pores?

I'm not apposed to taking it to an auto place to get done but I'm just worried that pores and some imperfections are going to show more.

 

[CatShooter]

Polyurethane yellows. Period. It is a readily available product, primarily due to the low price. Polycrilic has taken it's place in the woodworking industry.

I'll be sure to tell that to my stocks. They didn't get the memo.

 

[pdhntr]

Well, if one goes the auto clear route, what's used to fill the pores?

Auto clear builds very quickly. It can be applied thick enough so as the wood absorbs the clear there is enough (built up) to wet sand and rub out without applying another coat.

When I was using auto clear I would apply a seal coat that was thinned a little more than usual, and let it dry before applying the final coats.

I'm not apposed to taking it to an auto place to get done but I'm just worried that pores and some imperfections are going to show more.

If enough clear is applied you can wet sand and rub out the finish.

I use Minwax spray spar urethane now. It can be rubbed out and gives an excellent finish. I haven't sprayed auto clear in years, probably never will again.

Jim

 

[JRS]

Well, if one goes the auto clear route, what's used to fill the pores?

I'm not apposed to taking it to an auto place to get done but I'm just worried that pores and some imperfections are going to show more.

No worries. I shoot 3 coats on my stocks, wet sanded after the first and second coat. You can't see, nor feel, any imperfections or pores on my stocks. All sprayed with PPG clear coat.

 

[tinkerer]

I've had good luck with Formby's Glossy Tung Oil. Sand to at least 220, whisker, sand again, and blow clean. Wipe down with Tung Oil, let dry at least 24 hours. Repeat until all pores at filled and smooth to sand to 600.

I have been using Min Wax Spray gloss Polyurethane. Spray a light coat, wait about 30 minutes, spray another light coat, wait 30 minutes, spray third coat. Wait 3 days, wet sand with 600. Wipe clean. Re-do. I usually put about 6 coats.

When you like it, I usually coat with Johnsons Paste wax for final dry touch.

Never had one yellow or crack. Only wood it does not like is cocobolo due to its oily nature.

Larry
Tinkerer

 

[Grizz2150]

I have used tru-oil in the past, but never again - it is subject to fungus growth. I have several fine rifle stocks that have to be stripped with paint remover and refinished again.

I now use poly-urethane spray in cans - either semigloss or gloss for deluxe grain woods - it is bullet proof.

Yes sir that's what I like gloss poly. You can hunt in the rain and snow of Alaska, The humid rainforest of the Congo, The mountains of the Himalayas at 30 below zero, thats why Roy Weatherby put an epoxy finish on his rifles.

 

[SGK]

Resurrecting a zombie - over 9 years thought dead