Which front bag should I try?

[KentuckyFisherman]

About a year ago I switched from a Bald Eagle windage top with a 3" Protektor leather front bag to a Shadetree front rest with a fairly thin bag with Cordura surfaces. The sides on this new bag are shorter than the Protektor I'm used to and I can't get as much side grip as I like, even using shims.

I love the rest, but the new front bag isn't giving me as secure a hold as I like. I contacted Butch and he said their rests don't come with bags, so the seller obviously added this bag. The rifle I'll be shooting most in this rig is a Savage Benchrest 6BR factory gun.

I'm considering trying out the bags shown below, one an owl ear and the other square cut. The ears on the square-cut model are 1/8 inch taller. Can someone tell me when and why you would pick one of these over the other? Which should give me more side tension and a firmer hold than I'm able to get now?



Thanks in advance, and if I've left out any critical info, I'm happy to add.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

That bottom bag is not going to give you any side clamping action. Call protektor and see if theyll make what you want

 

[JMayo]

I have the top one on a Randolph. I tighten up the side screws seemingly too tight at the start. The sand splits up within the first 2 fouling rounds. I turn the screws a little bit more and rifle settles very good.

 

[argh]

Can i ask why you want the front bag to grip the stock? Most people are trying to get the rifle to recoil and slide with as little resistance as possible. Your stock should be resisted from sideways movement, but not gripped IMO.
BTW i use a Protektor 3" cordura bag (to suit caldwell) on my Shadtree top. If i tightened the screws up hard, it would grip the stock, but i run snug with silicon spray lube
Adrian

 

[KentuckyFisherman]

That bottom bag is not going to give you any side clamping action. Call protektor and see if theyll make what you want

Thanks, Dusty. I understand that the bottom of the front bag doesn't exert any force, but the two "ears" do, at least on every rest I've used. You can control to some extent how those ears mold to the stock by the amount of sand used and the adjustable side plates that squeeze the ears. Is that not correct?

 

[KentuckyFisherman]

Can i ask why you want the front bag to grip the stock? Most people are trying to get the rifle to recoil and slide with as little resistance as possible. Your stock should be resisted from sideways movement, but not gripped IMO.
BTW i use a Protektor 3" cordura bag (to suit caldwell) on my Shadtree top. If i tightened the screws up hard, it would grip the stock, but i run snug with silicon spray lube
Adrian

Adrian, you're absolutely right that you don't want the ears on that front bag to squeeze too much. I probably shouldn't have used the word grip.

 

[JMayo]

Bench rest 6mm bra = rifle slides/recoils fine and returns to poa better with the bag forced into shape with a firm snugging up. It finds its fit quickly.

The 2nd bags ears would follow the slope of the rest adjustments like a Edgewood I bet. But I still prefer the flat squared up bottom type.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Thanks, Dusty. I understand that the bottom of the front bag doesn't exert any force, but the two "ears" do, at least on every rest I've used. You can control to some extent how those ears mold to the stock by the amount of sand used and the adjustable side plates that squeeze the ears. Is that not correct?

The top bag will do what you describe. That bottom bag will not conform and secure your stock like you describe. Its more for a big rounded beavertail stock like a 40x or sendero to cradle