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Timing trigger rem 700

Rockchuck

Rockchuck

Silver $$ Contributor
I've been playing with a rem 700 action and extra cocking piece. I'am trying to eliminate the cock on close. To find a happy medium I have eliminated about 98% of cock on close and I have .230 of firing pin fall. Just wanted to know what you think about what I have. Do you think I will run into problems?

Ed
 
I think you'll be fine. The normal number for nominal is .240.

I adjust all my rem's to eliminate cock on close but I generally upgrade to a PTG bolt. The PTG bolts are well designed in this area and when cock on close is eliminated, generally I end up with .240" of fall. Before I adjust, I often have .275 or .280 of fall and the actions are horrible to cycle.

I turn all my firing pins to .060" which requires less energy to dent the primer and I think contributes to better ignition.

--Jerry
 
I believe Bighorn is now making different cocking pieces for the use with various triggers. But ofcourse these are for Bighorn actions.
 
Ed, ultimately the target will be your answer. Not single groups but aggs. Weak ignition will still shoot small some days. In my experience a stock rem 700 ignition wont shoot its best at that amount of fall. .240" is a good minimum number for a good ignition. A 700 will need other work to get there.
 
Last edited:
Dusty Stevens said:
Who makes an oversize cocking piece to go the other way?
Click to expand...

It's not the cocking piece by itself. You can adjust the cocking piece but every thousandth you take off of cock on close takes the same amount off of pin fall. There are lots of dimensions in the bolts that have to work together.

Trying to restore firing pin fall isn't that easy either.

--Jerry
 
I've been thinking about this lately. Could a guy cut down in diameter the end of the firing pin were the cocking piece goes, and thread it? Then silver solder a threaded piece into the cocking piece, thus having an adjustable firing pin assembly?
 
Yes, lots of work. threaded firing pins have to have a way of locking them to keep them from moving. But all you adjust is cock on close. The firing pin protrusion is set by geometry. Since cock on close only needs to be adjusted once, it is easier to machine the cocking piece. If you want to experiment with triggers etc, it might be worth it. Don't use high temp silver solder. --Jerry
 
OK, without looking at my bolt, are we talking about how high the bolt plug is from the bolt body when cocked? I would assume that to adjust this you are modifying the ramp height?
 
carlsbad said:
Yes, lots of work. threaded firing pins have to have a way of locking them to keep them from moving. But all you adjust is cock on close. The firing pin protrusion is set by geometry. Since cock on close only needs to be adjusted once, it is easier to machine the cocking piece. If you want to experiment with triggers etc, it might be worth it. Don't use high temp silver solder. --Jerry
Click to expand...

Threading the firing pin and cocking piece would not adjust cock on close, it would adjust firing pin fall within the limits of the rest of the ignition design.

Op, theres no easy way to achieve no cock on close AND have enough pin fall unless the action was designed that way originally. Fixing them requires a complete redesign of that part of the action. Once a guy realizes whats involved, usually the next step is trying to convince yourself you really dont need all that pin fall ;) Bottom line is the cocking cam helix is wrong and has to be re-cut to fix the problem. There is no way around the limits of the cocking cam helix design.
 
alex,
I stand corrected. thanks. I didn't think this completely through before responding.

Still, a threaded firing pin is a difficult solution. I like the PTG bolt solution as that is a nice upgrade in itself.

And as you say, and neither of us wants to write the treatise on, once you start modifying the bolt to move these parameters around lots of other parameters become influenced.

--Jerry
 
Alex Wheeler said:
Threading the firing pin and cocking piece would not adjust cock on close, it would adjust firing pin fall within the limits of the rest of the ignition design.

Op, theres no easy way to achieve no cock on close AND have enough pin fall unless the action was designed that way originally. Fixing them requires a complete redesign of that part of the action. Once a guy realizes whats involved, usually the next step is trying to convince yourself you really dont need all that pin fall ;) Bottom line is the cocking cam helix is wrong and has to be re-cut to fix the problem. There is no way around the limits of the cocking cam helix design.
Click to expand...


So is it really possible then to eliminate all cock on close and still have proper firing pin fall.
And just for curiosity's sake what would something like that cost to have a Smith do not trying to pin you down or anything just curious.
Sorry for the rookie questions don't know much about Remington's just got my first one.
 
Yes, I have done many of them. Generally its not worth the cost on a 700, unless you just want the sweetest 700 you can get. Mostly I do it to custom actions that where not designed to be timed like Kelbly's. Due to the work involved, its not cheap. Unless your smith is recutting the cocking cam helix to do it right, I'd learn to live with the cock on close.
 
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