Stock painting a how to

Discussion in 'Main Message Board' started by Bc'z, Nov 30, 2019.

  1. Bc'z

    Bc'z Gold $$ Contributor

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    Posting this for the DIY folks.
    I'll be doing a step by step process for you folks that want to finish your own stocks.
    Hopefully @Forum Boss will make this a STICKY for easy future reference.
    Please refrain from posting comments as I have a lot of typing to do.

    For this demonstration I'll be doing a Borden fiberglass BR stock.
    Stock is raw out of the mold. 20191130_100424.jpg
    I start by blocking the surface with 80grit sand paper on a HARD block this will expose the low spots that need filling.
    These are the dark un sanded areas, you can also see the seam from the mould process. 20191130_100442.jpg after blocking surface thoroughly you'll need to come back and sand any remaining low spots or mould seams for filler to adhere. 20191130_131903.jpg when spreading fillers I find it better to get a good amount of filler on and not try to spread it smooth that's what the block and sandpaper is for.
    I'll use 36grit for my heavy carving/shaping be sure to leave filler a little proud.
    Next I switch to 80grit and finish blocking the 1st coat of filler. 20191130_112351.jpg Here I'm moulding the butt with filler, this stock will have a painted butt, no plate. 20191130_112212.jpg this shot shows 1st coat of filler sanded in 80grit ready for second coat of filler.
     
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  2. Bc'z

    Bc'z Gold $$ Contributor

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    Here's shots of stock after second coat of filler with some fine tuning left around trigger guard opening, bolt handle, and tang. 20191130_141050.jpg you can see my sanding block on the floor, the corner of forend still needs a touch more filler. When spreading fillers lead with 1 edge of spreader where you don't need as much and drag the other edge where you need more, pulling at an angle so to speak.
    Start your blocking with 80grit as it's the last grit we finished with, also second coat of filler can be pulled tighter but leave yourself some working room. It's also beneficial to spread farther than the spot your filling so when you finished everything will be at surface. 20191130_141058.jpg 20191130_124732.jpg ok now that the easy stuff is completed, it's time for trigger guard opening and bolt handle opening.
    20191130_162529.jpg l used 3M green automotive masking tape to cover trigger guard to fill the opening and spread over the top. Tape is your friend when spreading up to lines and around bedding. 20191130_163717.jpg
    Here you can see where I put on a healthy coat of filler. I pulled trigger guard out of filler just as it was setting up and removed tape. Now just block to surface.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2019
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  3. Bc'z

    Bc'z Gold $$ Contributor

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    Bolt handed openings are a royal pain, but this is the easiest way I can come up with. 20191130_152539.jpg I backed up the opening with heavy tape and filled opening completely, then using a round rasp I start carving after opening up a bit, I set the action and mark from inside and switch over to my sanding stick and rolled up sand paper. 20191130_161637.jpg as you can see there is a few different colors of filler these are tricky! 20191130_160714.jpg clearance is key, plus gap to handle should be even. 20191130_161433.jpg experience tells me to stop here and prime with high build 2k urethane primer, I can fine tune before final prime. 20191130_152217.jpg I cut the channel for the cocking piece a lil bit larger than necessary to allow for primer and paint.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2019
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  4. Bc'z

    Bc'z Gold $$ Contributor

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    After all filling is done I blow stock and clean with waterborne cleaner, never use solvents on fiberglass or plastics. Low humidity can cause a spark from static generated from friction.
    Now I mask the bedding butt your tape to the high side of stock and use razor blades and exacto knife to cut openings. 20191130_182922.jpg 20191130_182915.jpg 20191130_182931.jpg 20191130_183802.jpg you can see a few pinholes behind bolt handle opening, no worries I'll catch these with finish putty and a single edge razor blade "BEFORE" blocking so it all sands easily to a even surface for final prime.
    Its good to let your primer set for 24 hours or more depending on conditions.
    I'll be adding to this thread on Monday that's when I'll block and fine tune for final prime.

    Edit: Not counting forum time, 3 cocktails and figuring out who I'm hunting with tomorrow it took 8 hours start to finish today.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2019
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  5. rwj

    rwj Gold $$ Contributor

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    Thanks for the informative post! Now I have a better understanding of the work, and related cost, for beautiful paint work...
     
  6. NorCalMikie

    NorCalMikie Gold $$ Contributor

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  7. muleman69

    muleman69 USMC -1st marine Div. RVN Gold $$ Contributor

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    Great informative post, please keep them coming
     
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  8. SPJ

    SPJ Whoops !! Gold $$ Contributor

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    So easy a caveman could do it :D


    Nice goin buddy...
     
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  9. Bc'z

    Bc'z Gold $$ Contributor

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    Various blocks and plastic sticks I use. Fillers 20191202_085021.jpg 20191202_085026.jpg I'm posting this in real time so I can try not to leave things out.
    I've marked all pinholes that need filling with a pencil 15753058049821593123777178642714.jpg using a single edge razor blade pull finish putty tightly into pinholes. 15753066231325357069417318077629.jpg
     

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  10. Bc'z

    Bc'z Gold $$ Contributor

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    Now to start blocking, I spray a guide coat after pinholes are filled 15753073075816018376805353932604.jpg using
    150gr paper on the longest stick possible that comfortably fits the area being sanded go to work, keeping sticks flat and don't roll the edges. We want "crisp" lines.
    15753075099465342567735353344726.jpg 15753075573016764951210952130361.jpg here I'm pointing at the fiberglass starting to show. "STOP!" Continuing to sand will just make the glass higher and the primer lower.
    Here's a pic showing I need to sand a lil more, by reading the guide coat it's still low and i haven't reached the fiberglass yet. 15753078722697891830851486415422.jpg now that the flats are blocked with sticks I'll switch to my durablocks aka illusioning blocks. High density foam rubber for working the rolls 15753090008494848812187955348459.jpg
     
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  11. Chris Covell

    Chris Covell Silver $$ Contributor

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    AWESOME!!!
     
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  12. Bc'z

    Bc'z Gold $$ Contributor

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    Now for the details, like that damn bolt handle slot. I'll use the remnants of an arrow shaft I cut down to make a drop tube.
    15753114238628240850853124716952.jpg
    Look behind slot you can see pinholes are filled and blocked to surface
    Here's where a Remington action is better than a custom.
    The rear tang, I always get these divots in the corners of a square tang stock, whereas the Remington will sit over in the rear.
    Painter's preference of course!! 15753118804996248465542308199133.jpg Ok, now I've got it blocked out lines are crisp and sharp I have 1 more detail to sand.
    The radius to the butt.
    Sometimes a block won't work and you have to hand sand 15753121363891316459619982895620.jpg 15753123801902525135571704137997.jpg
     
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  13. rwj

    rwj Gold $$ Contributor

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    How many hours have you expended on this stock so far, and how many more until complete?
     
  14. Bc'z

    Bc'z Gold $$ Contributor

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    Ok, divots are filled, masking over bedding is peeled. I prefer to remask to keep material millage to a minimum.
    Using a single edge razor blade shave the heavy edge before masking for final prime. 15753146791731171388140528752173.jpg
    Before making bedding back up I need to address all the lines that are unsanded, for this I'll use a bit of red scotch brite.
    I'll also coast over primer with 180 grit paper to soften the sanding scratch 15753151456776308652122918209612.jpg almost forgot, trigger guard opening.
    Yup still fits! 1575315885023290313352725898363.jpg now I'll clean with waterborne cleaner mask bedding and final prime. 15753186509946880143783718323121.jpg Now I'm ready for final prime.
    I'll be spraying a custom black with blue glitter on this stock.
    My choice of primer for this project is made by Glasurit, it's an adhesion promoter, a filler, and can also be mixed as a sealer.
    It will stick to any properly prepped surface from plastic to metal.
    Oh yeah, it's also black.....
    And expensive as hell !!!! 15753190938345530651414402340392.jpg
     
  15. Bc'z

    Bc'z Gold $$ Contributor

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    About 4 hours today, 1.5 hours taking pictures and posting as I go.
    I don't want to leave things out and left up to imagination.
    Average stocks take me roughly 20 hours start to finish
     
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  16. Bc'z

    Bc'z Gold $$ Contributor

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    15753223452454133631393247295425.jpg 1575322370468467537581722878808.jpg 15753224137897302676724807665877.jpg I'll let this sit for a couple days and wet sand with 600 grit paper before applying color.
     
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  17. Fast14riot

    Fast14riot Silver $$ Contributor

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    Great write up! Just in time for me to get my BR stock painted.
     
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  18. muleman69

    muleman69 USMC -1st marine Div. RVN Gold $$ Contributor

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    Lot of work, nice job.you are a Master
     
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  19. PhilC

    PhilC

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    Knew I recognized Dolphin glaze by the color. You do nice work! :cool:
     
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  20. ryewhiskeybent

    ryewhiskeybent

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    Following this artistry
     
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