Rem model 7 .223 predator vertical groups

Buddy of my has a rem model 7 223 predator. The rifle shot 3"groups prefect vertical groups. The scope seems fine all the bases and rings look good. I'am thinking about bedding it for him. About free floating the barrel???? Wish he would just change the flexible stock that it came with. But he wants to keep it. Like to hear what some of you guys would do.

Ed

 

I have two Rem Model 7's 223 Remingtons - one stainless - one blued. Here's my 20+ years experience with them:

The factory stocks were junk on mine. First thing I did was remove the pressure points on the barrel at the end of the stock and free floated the barrel the entire length. This improved group sixe somewhat from about 1.5 to about 1.0".

Next I pillar bedded the factory stock - it help a bit but I still wasn't satisfied - I want a 1/2 moa group rifle which is a lot to ask for in factory rifle with a thin barrel even with tailored reloads.

Since I was searching for a supremely accurate stalking rifle for ground hog and predator hunting I took the plunge. Working with my rifle smith he rebarrel the stainless rifle w/ Douglass match grade barrel, one contour heavier than the factory rifle. Next I replaced the stock with a Bell and Carlson Metalists stock. Bingo - a tack driver. This is now my go to stalking rifle - last summer was the absolute best year - 98% kill rate. Love this rifle - a joy to carry and supremely accurate. Have a Leoupold 4 x 14 VX3 mounted on it. Great balance also with the No. 2 contour barrel.

This worked so well that I had the blued one rebarreled and replaced the stock. Bingo - another tack driver - use in the winter for predators.

Obviously my solutions were not the cheapest. I do think his rifle would benefit from pillar bedding and free floating the barrel which are not expensive fixes. If he reloads this would be very helpful since he can refine the accuracy with reloads tailor this his rifle.

 

Yea I think the barrel should be free floated for sure.

 

Bed the action and the rear only of the recoil lug. Be sure you have good clearance in barrel channel. Open it up if needed. Work a load, all the M7s I have been around shot on or near .5 groups with this treatment No, it does not need pillars.

 

If he is still using the factory synthetic stock then he needs to replace stock. Otherwise, just wasting his time trying to improve rigidity of throw-away factory stock, which has inadequate structure/rigidity. It will make contact with barrel if using bipod or if resting on bag toward front of forearm. The least expensive option is to get a wood laminated stock with a V-block from Boyds or Stocky's or an entry level Kevlar stock from Bell & Carlson.

My brother in-law is dealing with same issue. I convinced him not to send back his Vortex scope until he was certain it wasn't his stock. I shot the rifle a year ago and showed/told him it was the stock... he doesn't seem to want to listen or spend $275 on decent stock. Easier to blame the scope I guess???

 

I have two of that exact same rifle...I think...mine are 1-in-9 twist and all camo. I believe it's called hydro-dipped?? The Tupperware stocks have to go. You can massage and rub on them all you like, and you might see some improvement, but at the end of the day you will wish you had and you ultimately will abandon that factory stock. Those stocks are the result of what happens when a manufacturer stops trying to make rifles and starts only worrying about making money.
The best stock I have put on a Model 7 is the new one H.S. Precision just released last year. Remington uses it on their mountain rifle. It has a pressure point and while I have always had good luck floating the barrel the folks where I got the stock suggested I at least try it and I am glad I did. I think it was Red Hawk Rifles or Red Eagle...I don't know Red "some kind of bird of prey" Rifles.
The next thing I would check, because one of mine was stringing bullets too, is the chamber to bore concentricity. Bore scope inspection revealed rifling all the way to the case mouth area of the chamber intact on one side. Or, approximately half way around the throat the rifling was "throated" or ramped, but the other half was untouched. Now I don't know how that is done??? If someone told me to cut a throat around half of the bore I am clueless how to set up a barrel so that happens. I think they are chambering barrels with a CNC boring bar. Remington replaced the barrel no charge and I am not the original owner.
Next thing, and this is a given, is the trigger. That factory junk is about the same story as the stock....no sense wasting a single second on it, just get a new one. I personally like the Timney Calvin Elite and have had vey good luck with those.

 

OMGoodness,the hours of dead serious shop time I've spent on factory,"flexible flyer" stocks.....oy vey!

Yes,you can get them stiff,how stiff do you want it? But unless you're sitting in a very well equipped machine shop,AND pro grade cabinet shop.... with nothing better to do,you're losing money. Either a HS Precision or B&C and get on with the show. Agree on a nice trigger too.

A quicky bedding and hog out the barrel channel. Might as well mill enough clearance in there for fiberglass drywall "tape" and at least a 1/16" of epoxy. Take a dremel and small detail dental "bit" and really chew up the plastic in the forearm. That's for mechanical grip. Just before wasting inordinate amts of more time,wave a propane torch over the whole area to be glued. Then lay it all in there,you have about a 15 minute window. There,you've been warned and a spot of advice,haha. Good luck,and have fun.

 

Dump the stock. Those tupperware stocks are just shipping containers for a barreled action. If you're cheap, buy a Boyd's laminated.