Neck turning - "wobbly" drill driver

Discussion in 'Reloading Forum (All Calibers)' started by piie, Jul 31, 2019.

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  1. piie

    piie

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    Hi

    Hopefully this is not the most stupid question ever asked...

    I use a little hand-held screwdriver (Bosch IXO) and the bottom part of the Lee handheld trimmer to secure and turn the casings.

    This little screwdriver has a visible "wobble" when its turning, and although it seems like this is not transferred to the neck area once it is on the mandrel in the cutter, I was wondering if this is something that I should try to prevent by using either my hands or by using a better quality driver?
     
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  2. Raythemanroe

    Raythemanroe Bullet Whisperer Silver $$ Contributor

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    Buy a mini lathe or nice drill press


    Ray
     
  3. boltfluter

    boltfluter Gold $$ Contributor

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    If the cases are turned concentric just let it wobble. Mine has a slight wobble but cases measure very good for consistency of wall thickness. Wobble on !! :D:D

    Paul
     
  4. spclark

    spclark Gold $$ Contributor

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    Do you have some way to measure whether this wobble is causing inconsistent neck thickness when you’re turning necks?

    Two schools of thought on this: hold both ends (driver and turner, with the case between them) in your hands, or both ends securely mounted so they serve as a stable platform for their respective tasks, with the case between them.

    I favor the former (1/2” chuck Milwaukee corded drill w/older style Sinclair case chuck in it, 21st Century cutter) for my needs, drill resting on right thigh w/cutter held in left hand. I note some wobble also with some cases, not so much with others. Doesn’t seem to affect neck thickness consistency as long as I’ve sized necks properly so they’re a snug fit on the mandrel being used; it’s a lot worse if there’s slop!

    My sense of it is any wobble is happening at both ends - they’re free to move - but the necks are riding on the turning mandrel with the cutter edge held firmly for the desired depth-of-cut.

    Maybe with a rigid, mechanical mount for everything my results’d be even better? Don’t know... don’t feel a need to acquire what’d be needed.

    I turn necks once, after cases are fired twice then sized. Tried skim-cutting a batch several years ago after third or fourth firing, couldn’t see a lick of change in consistency of accuracy down-range.

    Were I questioning my methods as you appear to be doing I’d first try a different tool for rotating cases, or the device securing them in the tool I’m using to spin ‘em. See what happens with changing only one thing at a time.
     
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  5. joshb

    joshb Gold $$ Contributor

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    Yup. Loose hold and let it wobble. Gripping it hard and fighting it will cause you trouble. Me? It bothered the heck out of me and I bought another drill. It doesn’t go to the shop for woodworking. It’s just for neck turning.
     
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  6. Dusty Stevens

    Dusty Stevens COVFEFE- Thread Derail Crew Gold $$ Contributor

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    If you stop it from wobbling youll get serious inconsistency in neck thickness. It has to float. Take a look at the 21st century turning setup
     
  7. Ccrider

    Ccrider Gold $$ Contributor

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    This. And get the Hitachi lithium drill they reccomend.
     
  8. P1ZombieKiller

    P1ZombieKiller Gold $$ Contributor

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    I have tried a few cordless drill. I have not tried the Hatchi…. I have found the DeWalt brushless cordless drill to be the best. it seems to spin "TRUE"er than some of the others. I also make several "ATTEMPTS" to chuck the case holder into the jaws so that it pins true with little to no wobble. My chuck jaws have little slits in them. I experiment with the case holder being held by the flat parts, then the corners inside the slits.

    That also doesn't mean that some cases wobble more than others. IMO if the case wobbles, and the cutter is hand held, it should wobble too. As others have said the wobble isn't an issue..... as long as the cutter floats with it.

    My set up is a little different than most as once I get the case holder perfectly fit, it never comes out till the drill wears out. I have 1 drill set up for my small primer case holder, and 1 drills set up for my large primer holder.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. nmkid

    nmkid Gold $$ Contributor

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    I've been using a Hitachi corded drill for a few years. I have it strapped down to the edge of the bench and I hand hold the cutter. I never hold the cutter hard, it just does it's own thing, (little wobble). Never had any problems. The drill has a speed adjustment wheel, I lock it down with a hose clamp and the speed is always constant. I use a foot pedal to turn the drill on/off lets me concentrate just on the cutter.
     
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  10. Straightshooter1

    Straightshooter1 Gold $$ Contributor

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    I use a case holder mounted in cordless drill and will get various amounts of "wobble" when turning my necks. The trimmer wobbles in my hand, but the case neck stays firm on the mandrel and gives me a good uniform cut. Forcing it not to wobble would in this kind of set up would create concentricity problems with the neck. So . . . the "wobble" is a good thing in this case.
     
  11. Rope2horns

    Rope2horns Norm Harrold Silver $$ Contributor

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  12. Fotheringill

    Fotheringill

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    piie:

    It is not a stupid question. it has come to mind for everyone who has ever turned a neck.

    Listen above.

    If you have the tools to measure thickness and its concentricity, do so before and after turning. That will either set your mind at ease or not.
     
  13. KentuckyFisherman

    KentuckyFisherman

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    Almost exactly what I would have said about my process. Try to get the caseholder as true as you can in the drill, then let the cutter float as you slowly work it down the neck, cutting as it goes.
     
  14. Uncle Ed

    Uncle Ed

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    The electric Bosch screw driver and similar screw drivers do not have jaws like a drill that center the bit. And the Lee case holder can move and flop around in the bit holder. On top of this it is easy the lock the case down off center in the Lee holder causing even more wobble.

    [​IMG]

    There are many other type case holders that center the case in the holder to reduce the case wobble.

    Below the Sinclair case holder when tightened centers the case in the holder reducing case wobble.

    [​IMG]

    The Sinclair case holder driver when tightened has a raised dome that centers the case on the primer pocket and the case can not be locked down off center.

    [​IMG]

    I tried using the Lee shell holders but switched to the Sinclair case holder because the cases self centers when tightened.

    Bottom line, if you want less wobble with the Lee case holder you have to fiddle around until the case is centered when tightened. Or buy a holder like the Sinclair unit that centers the case in the holder.
     
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  15. 1911nut

    1911nut

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    Yup, I use a Sinclair case holder in a 40 year old Milwaukee electric screwdriver.

    The Sinclair case holder/spinner has 3 screws to center the case holder in the tool, that takes out a lot of wobble. I hold the case trimmer loose in my hand and accept a slight wobble.

    Like Bullseye, accept the wobble.


    My necks vary in the mid 0.0000’s
     
  16. Link

    Link Silver $$ Contributor

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    I just chuck the brass up in the jaws of my battery powered drill and let the cutter float as much as I can. Guys are saying no turn shoots as good as turned so if I can turnout brass as good as factory I figure i'm golden. The only reason I turn is I have a turn chamber. My next one is going to be a no turn. To me this is two different subjects in one. MMMmmm
     
  17. wedgy

    wedgy Gold $$ Contributor

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    Let it wobble, like a drive shaft/u-joint or double cardin joint, as long as the hand side can match it you're good.
    I agree with the primer pocket centering holder also, way better that the ones that grab like a shell holder.
     
  18. Joe R

    Joe R Silver $$ Contributor

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    For around $100 buy a tool that makes the job easy. I made this video just for you :) .

     
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  19. BoydAllen

    BoydAllen

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    I have had a neck mic. that reads to .0001 for over 20 years and turned a fair number of necks. First, let the case and turner wobble. Second, feed to the shoulder too quickly to make a good cut, as fast as you can manage, and then come back to the mouth very slowly, and DON'T go back. Grab the neck with some 0000 steel wool and spin the case for about 3 seconds, with pressure on the neck. While you have it in the holder, use a trimmer that stops on the shoulder, spinning the case longer than it feels like the cutter is cutting by about 5 seconds, chamfer and debur. The reason for not going back when turning is that keeping pressure on the case with the cutter the whole time that it is on the neck gives more consistent results. If you do that, you can get by with a looser fit on the mandrel, with no problems, as long as you let things float. I prefer the PMA or 21st Century power adapters. They both have close fitting posts that insert in the primer pockets. Wobble is reduced....a lot.
     
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  20. Dusty Stevens

    Dusty Stevens COVFEFE- Thread Derail Crew Gold $$ Contributor

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    3AF9E356-8DFC-4D60-B973-091A12744C52.jpeg

    This is how i turn em. The standard of the ppc shooters that turn brass like its our job
     

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