It happens to the best of us.

This is my second stuck case in 54 years of hand loading. Last one was around '68. My Dad got the .30-06 case out the same way. I got a little too stingy with the pad lube when FL sizing an RP .260 case. Another one for the scrap bucket.

 

Nice little puller jig you set up there. Glad that you got it out without causing any damage to the die.

 

This is inexcusable ! My dad used to say if you can't do it right just go sit in the truck, and don't play with the radio !

 

Silly question from a never experienced it yet guy, but is sticking a rod in from the top and rapping on it effective? Would that damage the die or something or is it just not enough force? Does the stuck case kit only get used when the first method is ineffective?

 

In my situation I could not fully remove the expander button rod. Not enough expansion room to pull the button through the neck ID when the neck is contacting the steel die. Even if I was able to unscrew the button while inside the case, it would be in the way of any rod to hammer out the case. Hammering action rarely would work with such a hard stuck case. I did not even know I tore off the rim when using my RCBS A2 press. It takes steady pulling by turning the 1/4-20 screw to remove it. It is the easiest and safest way to pull a stuck case.

The bite marks are from pliers to pull it over the button, the last removal step.

 

I had about 4 stuck cases in my first ten cases one time with LC 5.56 brass, turned out my shell holder was out of spec, too large and was barely grabbing the rim, which would pull off. Yes, it was the correct shell holder, too. That one has been marked and is now dedicated to the decapping press. A socket, washer and bolt is what I use to unstick 'em.

 

Uhgggg I hate it when that happens... Knock on wood I haven't had that problem since switching to imperial sizing wax...

 

I don't have the patience for stuck shells, I leave it to the professionals at Redding and RCBS handle them for me. Fortunately, I haven't had one since I changed over to Imperial wax. Redding recommended it and they were right.

 

I'm still rolling them 10 at a time on the same metal RCBS pad my parents got me for a gift. Have changed the linen absorption cloth dozens of times. Old habits die hard at my house.

I like the socket idea. Will use it if there is a next time. A 9/16 ths. would have worked good with spacer washers to accommodate the screw length I had on hand.

 

I've been reloading almost 50 years now and never had one but I may have just cursed myself for saying that!

You may want to dump the lube pad and instead use Imperial sizing wax and apply to each case sparingly using your finger and thumb lightly coated and periodically refreshed with sizing wax. This assure complete coverage.

I use a Sinclair lube rack to place the cases in after I lube them manually. I can do 20 cases in about two minutes. Frank Shuster (RIP) taught me this method and it works extremely well, at least for me.

 

I am a bit crude when it happens to me. I pull out the decapping stem and stick an old military cleaning rod section in the hole a beat the dang thing out. Because I am unprepared for this sort of thing. lol.. Last time it happened was because I for got to change shell holders.

 

Anybody use the spray on lube - just hit from 4 different directions and kind of from the side to keep out of inside the cases - with a light coat and go at it. Will say if you have excess it will produce small dents but with a little practice I've never had a stuck case and minimal dents. Been using the same can for years

 

That's the only time I ever stuck cases was with One Shot. I switched to Imperial wax and it's been slicker goin in than a prom date ever since.

 

Damn, I might have to try that stuff.......on brass cases.

 

When I placed my order for my starting bunch of reloading equipment many years ago, my dealer looked it over and suggested that we add an RCBS stuck case remover, just in case. Well, it was about 20 years before I had a stuck case, but that choice way back when sure made life easier. Neat substitute you came up with there.

 

I use my home made lube (99% Isopropyl Alcohol and Lanolin Oil) on all of my rifle cases from .30 Carbine thru 50 BMG. So far, no stuck cases and zero hydraulic dents. From listening to others experience with spray lubes, their biggest mistake (stuck case) was from not giving the alcohol a few minutes to evaporate. I give mine, at least 5 minutes, which seems to do the trick.

I went to making my own lube because of the quantity I was using of the Hornady One-Shot. It got expensive. My home made lube costs me less than $.50 an ounce to make and my mix is 12/1 ratio.

 

I've used all brands of the spray on lubes without a problem; it's faster and less messy. However, only on cases fired in my rifles. When using cases fired in other's rifles and also case forming, I've played it safe and used Imperial. No stuck cases so far with either and I load about 3K a year.

 

Twice my shooting buddy stuck a case in a die and asked me to pull it. Having a drill index, I drilled the case head with progressively larger drills until the case wall was reduced to thin enough it just let go and the case spun out with the drill bit. Easy peasy or did I just get lucky?

I use lanolin based lubes. Keeps my fingers soft and supple

 

I also use bootleg case lube, same mix ratio. While I normally wait just a bit (30-60 seconds) to dry but I use Red Heet. And I have used it still wet just after spraying and it worked just as well. The only reason I wait to avoid solvent contact with my hands.

 

I bought two old cookie sheets at the thrift store decades ago. I lay about 25 cases on it, and use the Dillon spray lube. Two pumps, then roll them around for 30 seconds or so. When the pans get sticky, I just chuck them in the dishwasher and run it. I also wear Nitrile gloves when reloading.