Discussion in 'Main Message Board' started by josebd, Feb 14, 2020 at 7:52 PM.
Which barrel insert for Brownells barrel vise,savage varmint contour and sporter barrel.
A friend made my vise wuth a V bushing, has worked on every thing I have needed. Sporter thru HV. Be sure to put a couple wraps of paper around clamp point to avoid marring.
Do you have a brownells barrel vice that only needs inserts or are you going to spend a lot of money when PBike257 makes a heck of a barrel vise for a reasonable amount. Built to outlast me and I have used it on dozens of savages.
"PBike257 makes a heck of a barrel vise for a reasonable amount. Built to outlast me and I have used it on dozens of savages."
++ on PBike257's items. Forum member and great to deal with.
Send a pm to @Uthink Uknow and get a pbike257 barrel vise. Youll hate those bushings
If you buy a barrel vise that uses inserts, it's up to you to know the dimensions of the barrel shank you need to buy inserts for. I'm just guessing here, but based on Bartlein's barrel contour webpage, it sound like the barrels you listed have a 1.200" straight contour dimension at the breech. If correct, that would mean you would need the #9 1.200" inserts, but I'd check with the barrel manufacturer to be certain before buying any inserts.
FWIW - I own this vise and it's awesome. I purchased both the 1.200 and 1.250 aluminum inserts for various barrel contours I use regularly. I even made a set of inserts out of two sections of heavy PVC pipe for some 1.350" shank barrels (Brownells doesn't sell an insert that large), and they work just fine. Regardless of the inserts (aluminum or PVC), I also use a thin sheet of leather in addition to the inserts to prevent marring the barrel surface.
If I had to do it over again, I'd probably go with the Viper Bench Rest Barrel Vise:
This vise has the 4-bolt head, which is a feature I like very much with the Brownell's Vise, but it doesn't require aluminum inserts.
Good value & you can wail on it with a breaker bar.
I'm going with pbike257 vise
Question. I have been told that a piece of leather will do a good job. I have a vice and some leather I recently purchased but have not tried it yet. Will this work?
Its all according to how tight the barrel is. Most times i wouldnt think leather would work. What does work is either drywall tape or old targets on official target paper not the cheapo targets
I read these "barrel vice threads" with interest whenever they come up. I've never removed a factory barrel, and have watched only one.
My recurring question is -- Wouldn't the careful application of heat, (heat gun) be a benefit in almost every removal no mater which vice you use?? I'm thinking maybe 4 or 5 hundred degrees. jd
A proper rear entry wrench and barrel vise will do it. With a rear entry wrench, you get right up to the barrel tenon stub and all pressure is on the barrel/action junction. You needn’t take the action out of the stock to do this. There is no or practically no stress put on the length of the action. It may take a little horse to break the grip of a factory Remington barrel but you can get it without heat. And now when installing a new or re-installing the old barrel use anti-seize lube on the threads.
Another solution you can use if you are scrapping the factory barrel, and many smiths do this, is to run a parting cut partially into the barrel close to the face of the action/barrel joint to relieve pressure on the barrel/action face. You trash the barrel but you were going to anyway. I change barrels in the competition glue in stocks all the time even more than once a day and never need heat for that but then the threads are lubed and not frozen in place. Factory rifles and barrels are a different breed and the action can be removed from the stock without incident.
I have found that some gunsmiths seem to like tightening a barrel with a long handle wrench struck with a rubber mallet, maybe even more than once. This likely generates in the neighborhood of 150 ft-lb of torque, which I find is grossly excessive and can make a barrel very difficult to remove. In my experience, a 4 bolt head vice, a good piece of leather to protect the barrel, and warming/heating the action and barrel tenon with a hairdryer or heat gun is sometimes the only way to get one loose the first time you take it off. I always tighten barrels using 55-60 ft-lb of torque and apply copper anti-seize to the threads. I have never had a barrel loosen up, nor have I had to use the heating or had any difficulty removing a barrel I installed. So the degree of difficulty in removing the barrel and to what lengths you have to go largely depend on how tightly it was installed.
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