Annealeez came yesterday

Got my new Annealeez in yesterday and was wondering if I could get some information on were to start? I will start with .300wm,280ai,and 6br. Can anybody give me a heat range and time estimates for any of these? Also if there are any tricks and tips I would appreciate them.

 

They don't include instructions?

 

750 degrees, or about 6-8 seconds with flame tip 1/4" from base of case neck. Order 750 deg Tempilaq to set it up properly....and maybe give the instructions a read

Not much tips and tricks. Annealing is pretty simple. On the machine with the the 300 WM, you might have to bend the plate out a bit that holds the case between the wheels as it spins in the flame. Mine was making the case bind between the wheels and plate. Bent it out a hair and it works great. Don't bend too far. Just enough to allow it to spin freely.

 

With propane annealing machine, it can vary widely between one persons settings versus the next person. You'll need to experiment with what works for your setup. Tempilaq might be your best friend starting out.

 

They did but it is always nice to no what folks have found out that works the best(and the problems of course)

 

I will get Tempilaq on order for sure. Thanks for the tip and bending plate. These little tips are just what I was looking for

 

Tempilaq helps. I have started keeping all my failed brass to help me set up my Annealeez. If the blue flame turns orange as it hits the case, you're burning the brass. I'll set the dwell time a bit long and then shorten, using the failed brass as an indicator.

I also downloaded a free metronome app for my iPhone. Once I have the Annealeez set correctly for a particular case, I tune the metronome app to the Annealeez's cycle and make note of the setting. I can then use the metronome app to time the Annealeez next time without using brass--although I will run a piece or two of old brass to double check.

 

I do mine similarly. Reduce room light and heat a "failed brass" with blue flame not quite touching brass neck/shoulder juncture until it starts to glow. Reduce flame time and adjust til only a very slight suggestion of orange. Be sure brand of brass used for this is same as brass being annealed...could not believe the difference in time to anneal different brands. This is a fantastic machine!

 

The "flame setting" is the biggest variable and the main reason why we can't share data amongst ourselves. Different distances of the torch head from the brass, where it's pointed, etc. I tried to "outsmart" the system once by leaving my torch settings where they were and shutting off the gas at the tank. That didn't work because the next time I annealed, it was a different cartridge with turned necks. Now, I just set up each time and go thru the process but I try to do large lots, not 50 at a time.

 

Got mine fired up yesterday,some of the brass didn't want to spin on the bottom wheel. Not sure what that is all about? Looking for a volt meter to rig up now, haven't found one as yet. Real happy with machine ,going to make life much easier for sure.

 

Annealeez has a couple of instructional videos on their website and there are several on YouTube.

 

I run mine (for 308) with the dark blue flame tip just kissing the case either at about the neck/shoulder junction, or just a touch onto the shoulder (be aware that the torch distance from the case will alter how intense your flame is when that blue inner flame is at the case. YMMV.) My speed dial is set at midpoint (indicator line vertical) for Lake City brass.

When readjusting, I largely do what lpreddick suggested and use a scrap piece of brass (that piece can be used multiple times.) I run the speed down until it just glows slightly, then speed it up a bit (ideally, you should not see the brass glow at all.) I always try to watch the brass as it's cycling through, as the flame intensity tends to vary a bit.

One other thing to watch for is using mixed brass. The setting for Lake City (heavy military brass) will cook Winchester commercial brass.

 

I had problems with brass not rotating also. I cut a strip of 250 grit sandpaper and superglue it to the bottom wheel and brass rotates nicely. Short brass burns the sandpaper a little, so replacement is done. I also had short brass melting a tiny bit of bottom wheel and it's not easy to got off. I glued a piece of aluminum foil in wheel cut out and no more problem.

 

Another problem occurred after a few thousand...both wheels turned erratically or not at all. The motor's shaft is connected to the upper wheels shaft with a tubular connector gripping each shaft via a hex screw...they had worked loose.

 

Be aware that when you’re setting the flame distance/intensity and wheel speed by loading one case at a time, that loading up the “case magazine “ will let the cases “pre-heat” before being annealed, due to their position above the torch. These cases may get a bit hotter before they pull out of the flame because of this. It’s always good to use Tempalac on a case or two that hang out, up above, waiting for their turn.

 

A video I did on mods for my Giraud. Works very similarly on the Annealez. Also shows using Tempilaq to get everything set right.



My buddy Joe's mod for the volt meter.



Link to the meter on Amazon..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXMLIL8/?tag=accuratescom-20

 

Wow, thanks to all. This why I like this forum. Good people with great info

 

Really like your buddys video. I hooked a volt meter up to mine using the first two post (black and white) . My problem is the meter is jumping up and down by 1 volt in tenths? Maybe my connections? Not sure?

 

Do you think the wheels should be aluminum with some sort of grit attached to them? what is your thoughts? I have the machines to build what it takes?

 

That would be nice! If you make them, let us know.