20 Practical build

[AWS]

I have an AR in 20 Practical that I would love to hunt with BUT it is just not me, it feels awkward on a stand . It will get relegated to PD/GS and paper as it shoots lights out.

I do love the little cartridge and have all the loading equipment. So I have a Rem 600 in 6x45 that is gathering dust since I built a 6mm-204. I'm thinking a Criterion Remage barrel 20" in heavy sporter contour for a pelt saving coyote calling rifle(like I need another). This will ride on my MC, a short stubby rifle I tried a Howa Mini in 6.5 Grendel but to much sewing, it was ideal in size though. Weight isn't a problem as it ride on the bike or in a back scabbard off the bike to the stand. It will most likely get a Meopta Artemis 1.5-6x40mm scope (19 oz) on it.

Your thoughts

 

[msalm]

That’ll work great, so would a 20 Grendel on your Howa. I should have mine done this winter sometime. The 20 Prac would be much easier forming and cheaper shooting by far though!

 

[7887mm08]

I used a criterion 20 practical barrel for a savage build. Happy camper! Shoots tiny groups.
24" heavy sporter.

 

[DanS]

I have bought several barrels from these guys. They use Wilson barrels, the same barrels as put on Cooper rifles. Last barrel was a 20 VarTarg light varmint. Shoots great.

https://raggedholebarrels.net/collections/remage-barrels/products/remage-barrel

 

[JSH]

Guys at Ragged Hole are great to work with, I just built a 6TCU with a barrel from them.
Pretty sure they will do Remage.
Prefered Barrels is making a nut system for the Howa Mini. They have a fair number of calibers. I did ask about 17’s and 20’s, they use X caliber barrels for those. Didn’t say if there was a premium over their listed price for those.
Jeff

 

[Rick300]

A question for you 20 Practical guys. I bought a Redding type S bushing die and started reducing the necks on some new Lake City brass. The bushing doesn't size all the way down to the neck shoulder junction. I don't have the barrel yet to check, but how is the brass going to chamber if there is a "step" on the neck?

 

[AZROY]

A question for you 20 Practical guys. I bought a Redding type S bushing die and started reducing the necks on some new Lake City brass. The bushing doesn't size all the way down to the neck shoulder junction. I don't have the barrel yet to check, but how is the brass going to chamber if there is a "step" on the neck?

 

[AZROY]

Probably will not chamber well! I have used same die to create several 1000 20P cases without a "donut" forming. Make sure bushing is barely loose enough to rattle then secure. Only problem I have had is the Redding die does not resize the body enough when shooting in different rifles. Either use small body die (not recommended} or use RCBS 223 die on fired cases before using Redding die. By the way all of my brass was once fired LC. I also use Wilson 223 Rem case gage to set up press and a Lyman small rifle gage to check body size.

 

[LitLBoy]

make sure you get a 1-11 twist for heaver bullets

 

[Rick300]

Probably will not chamber well! I have used same die to create several 1000 20P cases without a "donut" forming. Make sure bushing is barely loose enough to rattle then secure. Only problem I have had is the Redding die does not resize the body enough when shooting in different rifles. Either use small body die (not recommended} or use RCBS 223 die on fired cases before using Redding die. By the way all of my brass was once fired LC. I also use Wilson 223 Rem case gage to set up press and a Lyman small rifle gage to check body size.

Thank you, I will see if can tighten it up a little but I don't think it will go enough

 

[platapus]

A question for you 20 Practical guys. I bought a Redding type S bushing die and started reducing the necks on some new Lake City brass. The bushing doesn't size all the way down to the neck shoulder junction. I don't have the barrel yet to check, but how is the brass going to chamber if there is a "step" on the neck?

I have several wildcats that I load for. IMO, the “donut” is necessary for a crush fit and correct fire forming. Some may disagree but the donut will give a better 1 shot fire form by not allowing gas/pressure to leak by.

I have never worried about it and after one shot, the brass is about a formed as your going to get it instead of multiple firings or the Cream of Wheat method needing multiple firings.

The 20 Practical w/23* shoulder may not be as tough to form as a 40* shoulder.

Even with ar’s, the donut has not caused me issues.

 

[AWS]

I went with a X-Caliber barrel and it is going on a Savage action.

I have no problems in my ar with the little bulge at the base of the neck. I run range brass through a SB die before forming to 20 Practical. From then on just the Bushing die.

 

[Rick300]

Thanks for the replies. I really didn't want to buy another die.

 

[B23]

I use 222 Redding bushing dies for my 20-222 and 22-250 Redding bushing dies for my 20-250. It does leave a very small amount of neck unsized but it doesn't cause any problems and they always chamber fine.

 

[tj66]

Guys at Ragged Hole are great to work with, I just built a 6TCU with a barrel from them.
Pretty sure they will do Remage.
Prefered Barrels is making a nut system for the Howa Mini. They have a fair number of calibers. I did ask about 17’s and 20’s, they use X caliber barrels for those. Didn’t say if there was a premium over their listed price for those.
Jeff

I have several barrels from Ragged Hole. All of them shooters. Just ordered one on Thanksgiving day and it was on my doorstep today. Chambered and ready to mount in under 2 weeks!!

 

[AZROY]

Thank you, I will see if can tighten it up a little but I don't think it will go enough

Forgot to mention I size 223 brass with RCBS 223 die with guts removed then neck down to 20 cal in two steps, .233 then .226

 

[Rick300]

Forgot to mention I size 223 brass with RCBS 223 die with guts removed then neck down to 20 cal in two steps, .233 then .226

Thanks, I am also doing 2 steps, but my LC brass measures .011 so I have a .223 and .224 bushings on order

 

[Fast14riot]

A question for you 20 Practical guys. I bought a Redding type S bushing die and started reducing the necks on some new Lake City brass. The bushing doesn't size all the way down to the neck shoulder junction. I don't have the barrel yet to check, but how is the brass going to chamber if there is a "step" on the neck?

I'm betting the shoulder is a bit further back on that new brass than your chamber anyway. I have used a progressive press to form my 20P brass from 1x LC, first die is a standard .223 die with expander ball removed, then next die was my bushing die. The progressive just made it quicker to form a couple hundred cases. Never had a problem chambering in my BHW barreled AR.

 

[AlNyhus]

A question for you 20 Practical guys. I bought a Redding type S bushing die and started reducing the necks on some new Lake City brass. The bushing doesn't size all the way down to the neck shoulder junction. I don't have the barrel yet to check, but how is the brass going to chamber if there is a "step" on the neck?

Rick, that can be an issue. Sometimes, you can flip the bushing over since there's usually less chamfer on one side.

What I did on mine was: faced off an extra shell holder .025, made a spacer to keep the bushing at the bottom of the cavity and then sized the case and neck with a flipped bushing. The 'lump' will now be below the lower part of the chamber neck. You can sneak up on this with the die adjustment....you may not need to push the shoulder back the entire .025, depending on the chamber. When firing the first time, seat the bullet firmly in contact with the lands and the shoulder moves forward. The necks are perfect, this way. I do use a bit of 3 In 1 Oil on the case when firing the first time.

Works great! -Al

 

[redrockranger]

I'd shoot it and see what the target tells you. I use a Redding type s and have no problems. Fine accuracy and my favorite PD rifle.