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Would this barrel be of concern?

Fern

Silver $$ Contributor
So I too my savage axis 22-250 to the range today and last weekend for load developement. I am not great of a shot but man this rifle is all over the place. Best group was about an inch or just over.
I got home to clean it and decided to stick the borescope I had picked up in the barrel for closer look. You can see almost like chatter marks along the entire barrel
0D2BCBB9-7536-473A-A149-1E93F88B6698.jpeg
Has anyone seen this before or recommendation? I bought this rifle on a spurt of the moment and 500 pieces of brass where I could find it and hope I can get it to shoot for varmint hunting
 
First off, Axis, or Axis II?
Any trigger work done?
Second, i'm assuming you did load development for THAT rifle??
Powder charge & seating depths?
Did you tune the action screw torques?
Base & ring screws tight?

Never, ever run a borescope down a factory Savage barrel!!
 
that's standard sav button rifling, make sure your using good bullets, bergers will saw off a little and make groups smaller, you may also set the action torque in stock, 40 inch lbs or more in front screw and 14 in back screw, but the axis is diff, I use standard actions all torqued at 42 front 12 back, if you torque the back screw to much you will stress the action rails on a 110 but the axis I think is solid not sure forgot, also clean the barrel with a good scrub of ISSO full length, use the speedy gonzales method, mix oil and ISSO together plus oil the barrel good before ISSO, I use mobile 1 syn or whats handy, all this might help might not, make sure your concentrating on your point of aim at ignition strike, that little move will grow the groups
 
“ I am not great of a shot but man this rifle is all over the place. Best group was about an inch or just over. “

I can’t add more than what is posted above.
What kind of groups do you usually shoot? For the price point of an Axis and other “cheapened” up models the stock can be one of the major issues. The thread on torque of Savage actions may or may not have benefit with a cheap Tupperware stock.

“About an inch or just over” is about average for most @100 with most in this price point. A little load tinkering can usually it that in half.
Loads, I chased my tail with the last 22-250 I had, went back to what I shot in the 80’s, H380 and didn’t look back
 
A friend told me a factory Savage barrel looked like the inside of a sewer pipe. But they usually shoot decent. What ammo you shooting?
 
My Sav 12, mid early 2000, BVSS in 22-250 bbl looks exactly like that. I should have nicknamed that rifle Casey Jones. RR Trax. W flags and Starke 55s, l could do honest high .3s, and allowing .200"*, not .224 w it using a couple of homemade wind flags. That load was not high velocity but it was a node it liked.
If you have no indicator of wind other than feel, grass n bushes, you're doing well. Wind flags are easily worth a half minute to the average, somewhat decent shooter.

* Holes in target paper do not reflect the bullet dia.
 
So I too my savage axis 22-250 to the range today and last weekend for load developement. I am not great of a shot but man this rifle is all over the place. Best group was about an inch or just over.
I got home to clean it and decided to stick the borescope I had picked up in the barrel for closer look. You can see almost like chatter marks along the entire barrel
View attachment 1350137
Has anyone seen this before or recommendation? I bought this rifle on a spurt of the moment and 500 pieces of brass where I could find it and hope I can get it to shoot for varmint hunting
Years ago I believe it was Numrich selling Savage .22 blanks real cheap, I bought one. It was just like that, all the lands the entire length looked like they were threaded. Didn't bother using it. That thing looks terrible but your choices are to work with it and find out, or replace it. The thing will probably foul like crazy but it may shoot ok with the right load. Not the same thing I know, but years back a .22 pistol with a garbage looking bore was extremely accurate, you never know.
 
Well since this wasn’t the reloading section didn’t want to get into the reload part of it.
I tried 55g vmax with cfe223. I was using primed federal brass that I had FL sized.
Started at 35g and took it up to 38.1 (published whereI started having heavy bolt lift)
I will double check action screws and scope was tight.
I have some 50g/55g/60g vmax as well as 40g nosler that I can try next.
I do have couple pounds of varget and opened bottle of h4198 and imr4198, and sealed 8# of imr enduron 4166
I appreciate all the advice and suggestions on this.
I’m loading for a cz Kevlar in 204 with 40g (hoping I can find a good load) as well as a tikka T3 varmint that I was thinking of putting 40g noslers in
 
If the accuracy is below your standard, there is an incredibly important question to ask quickly: How much are you going to spend in components and gas getting to the range to try and make it shoot acceptably before you spend ~$400 for a quality prefit barrel and the tools to change it?

I have changed the way I think about "a good deal" on a rifle since I started paying attention to components and travel costs associated with getting something to shoot. Doesn't take many $1 shots and $100 tanks of gas spent traveling to eat up the difference between a $800 custom barrel and chamber job that shoots great from the get go, and a $300 rifle that "shows promise" but never seems to reliably shoot small even after hundreds of rounds trying.
 
Evan I totally was thinking that to. I was looking at barrels on urbanriflemans site last night. Had a savage 17wsm that was horrendous no matter the ammo. Savage was great and replaced the rifle and one they sent was night and day difference.
Luckily range is only 20 min away and been going once a week. Need the time getting back in groove of things. Would like to run a suppressor on this but to get barrel threaded I might as well just order a barrel
 
Typical factory barrel, you received what you paid for. You can live and learn with it, or replace it. With today's component situation, a better barrel could save you money. Try Urban riflemans fix, if you are going to stick with the barrel.
 

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