wood stock finish removal?

[cjames]

I am about to embark on refinishing really nice walnut stock with ebony tip, grip cap, and it has checkering. I have finished stocks before with really good results, but they were just solid laminate or solid walnut, no checkering or ebony. My question is what to use to remove the varnish and stain so I don't take a chance on sanding the checkering. I have just sanded the other stocks I have done. This is a pretty high end chunk of wood and I don't want to mess it up. Any input on removal of the finish or putting it back on would be greatly appreciated.

 

[RWO]

if it is just plain old oil based varnish, any paint remover from the hardware store will remove it. You can mask off the checkering, but the right way is to remove the old finish in the checkering (soft toothbrush) and recut it after refinishing is complete.

For refinish I like Minwax Wipe-On Poly( oil based, gloss) applied with this method: http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/1_20waltcunfin.html Follow the directions exactly and you will be happy.

RWO

 

[mikegaiz]

I would not use any chemicals unless the old finish is chipping off. Just lightly (not aggressive paper use 220 it will fill easily so change often, but no deep scratches) sand the old finish off and the grain will stay filled, unless there are blemishes you want to work on. Do not sand the checkering, use steel wool and wire brush, to ruff the finish, the new finish will adhere. If that does not look good when you are finished then hit it with chemicals.....

 

[jepp2]

My question is what to use to remove the varnish and stain so I don't take a chance on sanding the checkering.

I have always used acetone to strip finish and stain from stocks. But I would be concerned it would/could attack the non-wood portions. Recently I stripped a Cooper 21 walnut stock. I used acetone on it, but my next choice would have been citristrip. Seemed like a pretty mild finish remover. BUT, I would test it on the fore end cap inside the stock just to make sure.

Once it is off, depends on the look you want. I wanted finish in the wood, not on the wood. So I ended up using Arrow Wood Finish. Previously I had used: pure tung oil, Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil finish.

 

[cjames]

Thanks for the replies. I forgot to add that there is some repairs of dings and scratches to take care of also. I'm going to have to iron some dents out and take care of some scratches.