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Winchester 760 Dirty or Clean burn?

Was thinking of using Winchester 760 in 300WSM. Read some where that ball podwers tend to foul.... is this true of 760 or has that been cured? I like the idea of easy metering but not at the expence of frequent barrel cleaning.

I clean every time after shooting but, would like to send 25-50 rounds down range without cleaning between sets.

Most of my reloading has been for compatition pistol and that was all ball powder....this stick stuff is a pain to meter.
 
Michael: "The Benchrest Shooting Primer" has a very good article beginning on page 211 about accuracy loading for the 223, but the article also includes information about clean vs. dirty powders. 748, BLC-2, 380 & 414 listed as very dirty and difficult to clean. 760 is shown as "fired cases generally clean-necks sooted but clean up quite readily". As I have verified with my "Hawkeye" borescope when the case necks are heavily carbon fouled, so is your bore. So, it seems 760 may be one of the cleaner ones, as I've also found the faster H335 to be.
 
WW 760 Dirty

Aud -

Howdy !

Can only speak to use of WW760 in my large capacity .224" cal
wildcat....

MY best loads for varmint use, made use of CCI and FED LR
MAG primers; w/ FED LR Magnum Match working best.

I had no cold WX light-off problems w/ any primer at all.

Powder seemed to hold up well to aging, and use of rounds that had been loaded as much as 4.5yr before shooting.

I also DID NOT encounter the temp sensitivity many ascribe to
ball powders. Again, my loads, my wildcat, my gun.

I do believe it put a residue coating on the inside of my cases..
I usually only neck sized brass. When I finally DID try to FL size some well-used cases ( 15 firings ), black sheets of powder residue flaked-off from the inside of the FL sized cases. Same stuff seemed to clean out of cases OK, when I used the Birchwood-Casey liquid case cleaner.

Did not have problem w/ hard powder fouling in the the bore
( grooves ). My sense of it was that the stuff burned clean/
My 24" SS 1-14 5-groove Hart barrel ( .224" cal wildcat ) went over 3,400 rnds before it ever keyholed its first bullet.
I attribute some of that barrel' life ( only 3,400rnds ) to the fact that I cleaned the barrel w/o a good rod guide.... and with an uncoated steel rod for many years. Live & learn.


Best of luck in your endeavors !

Regards,
357mag
 
alf: Good point. The article I referenced to from "The Benchrest Shooting Primer", is dated November 1987, when Winchester was making their own powders. Hodgdon recently began making all the Winchester powders, so who knows? Guess the answer to the original question might be, "Try it". I tried H414 in my 22-250's and it was extremely dirty, the main reason I stopped using it.
 
fdshuster said:
alf: Good point. The article I referenced to from "The Benchrest Shooting Primer", is dated November 1987, when Winchester was making their own powders. Hodgdon recently began making all the Winchester powders, so who knows? Guess the answer to the original question might be, "Try it". I tried H414 in my 22-250's and it was extremely dirty, the main reason I stopped using it.

That's a great article that I refer to frequently. It covers a lot of powders, but the newer powders like 10x and Varget were not around then.
 
audreger

Much will depend on the cartridge ball powder is used in and the amount used. Generally near max loads will foul less.
I use Win 748 a lot in the 204 Ruger. Its considered dirty and that may be true in some cartridges. In my 204's I'll run 400+ rounds of naked bullets without cleaning. Stuff wipes right out afterwards. Gives me the perfect "bore condition" with my pet load that works in multiple barrels.

Carbon fouling in a barrel acts a lot like bullet lubes, moly,WS2, and HBN. It creates a layer between the steel and copper bullet. Find a powder for your specific tube that carbons enough to diminish copper fouling without accumulating carbon excessively and you'll be a happy man. JMHO
 

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