Winchester 1885 Ruger No 1

[Ironworker]

Are these two falling block rifle good shooters ? Which one is better ?

 

[SSL]

Matter of taste. I lean toward the Rugers, but that's just my personal view. I certainly wouldn't turn down a Winchester if offered one!

 

[perry42]

My experience deals with 1885 actions in BPCR competition. I also have and shoot an 1885 in .270 and a lo-wall .22. The Ruger falling block action is said to be one of if not the strongest falling block action made. I also have owned a rolling block and 1877 trapdoor. As you can deduce I like single shot arms.

perry42

 

[lawman29]

The old Ruger No. 1 had a better trigger (3 screw), the "newer" ones don't...I think starting with Ser#133- which is about 1994???? You will read about issues with the No 1 forearm etc and fixes there is a thread on this forum about some of that. I picked up an old one that was in 220 swift that I re-barreled with a Bartlein to 22-250, it is a shooter.

1885 originals are very cool (not cheap), I have a low wall in 218 mashburn bee that shoots. Lock time is longer for an 85, with a gunsmith who knows them you can work on the triggers some (or a set trigger....). The originals are going to be rimmed cartridges only. As to the new Jap 1885 I have no info.

 

[XTR]

I've got a highwall sporter in 45-70. (and a C. Sharps in the same) I love the look, feel and simplicity of the falling block actions, but when I get another it will be a Ruger, an original Winchester, or another Sharps. The other possible option is a Pedersoli. The Italians are reasonably true copies of the original, at least compared to the new Winchesters; they have however gotten very expensive in the last few yrs, at least compared to where they were 8 yrs ago or so when I started looking at them.

The new Miroku highwalls bear no internal resemblance to the original John Moses Browning design, which is like saying you re-wrote the 10 commandments. The trigger is not as complicated as the Browning B78 but it is still a Rube Goldberg. I've been told the best way to take one apart is in a refrigerator box so you don't loose any parts when it goes off in 9 directions.

I don't know if he still does them but there was a guy named Lee Shaver who did a conversion on the Winchesters that made it into a nice trigger. He is well known in the BPCR world.

If you are looking at a 45-70 and you plan to shoot it more than you look at it, get one with a recoil pad. Mine has a real one. If you get one with a metal shoulder separator device you will not like it.

 

[Ironworker]

Local store has a 1885 High wall in 22/250 for 1100 bucks NIB . Its very tempting,but you all have educated me. Thanks

 

[Lone Hunter]

Local store has a 1885 High wall in 22/250 for 1100 bucks NIB . Its very tempting,but you all have educated me. Thanks

Been a few years but I had a Browning 1885 High Wall in 45/70. Very accurate and very good looking . So much in fact I took it hunting one time and sold it. I worried the whole time it was going to get scratched and if I can't carry a weapon and not worry about scratching it then I don't need it. It was very accurate also but too good looking to hunt with. Still wish I still had it too.

 

[tstowater]

I have owned 2 Ruger No. 1's. One in 223 and one in 22-250. I thought that they would make good p-dog guns but found out I prefer bolt guns. I have a few new version of the Lo-walls in 17 HMR and 17HM2. I have shot one to the HMR's and the HM2 is NIB. Wish they had a better trigger. The old style with set triggers are nice. If you are looking for a single shot breach fed rifle, both the No. 1 and the 1885 will do the job, you might have to do some trigger work.

 

[Ironworker]

The inferriour Trigger that you and others have mentioned discourages me.

 

[drover]

The inferriour Trigger that you and others have mentioned discourages me.

I have owned a Ruger #1 in 22/250 and 270, I have also owned Browning 1885 (same as the Winchester) in 223/ 22/250, and 7 Mag and the 1885's all shot well right out of the box without doing anything to them, the Rugers shot groups at least twice as big as the 1885's even after doing all of the so-called "tricks" to make them group better.

As far the trigger on the 1885's it is a simple removal, requiring nothing more than removing the buttstock and pushing out one pin, then send the trigger to Lee Shaver to have him work his magic on it. It has been about 5 years since I sent one to him but at that time it was $25 and about a two week turnaround, the trigger is absolutely perfect - I set mine at 2# and it has no creep and the weight of pull is consistent.

http://stores.leeshavergunsmithing.com/

drover

 

[1raggedhole]

I’ve noticed that the Ruger has very nice fit and finish, which it should for the money. Recently looked at new 1885 in 17WSM and was terribly disappointed in the roughly machine cut checkering and low grade wood. For that kind of money it should be very good, but it wasn’t.

 

[mongo chicago]

I have 3 Ruger #1s and an original Winchester Highwall. They were all good as they were, but I customized all of them. Mark Penrod of Penrod Precision in North Manchester Indiana is a great Ruger #1 gunsmith if you should happen to need one.

 

[slickyboyboo]

Some Ruger No 1s take a little tinkering to get them to shoot, some don't. My 300 WM took zero tinkering. This is a 5 shot group with the one and only load I have ever loaded for it.

 

[spencerhenry]

my italian copy of 1885 shoots great. in 348 winchester.
Crescent steel butt plate is not friendly.

 

[XTR]

my italian copy of 1885 shoots great. in 348 winchester.
Crescent steel butt plate is not friendly designed to dislocate your shoulder.

fix.t

 

[Ed]

I have two Miroku made 1885s. One is a Winchester High Wall Hunter 22-250 and one is a Browning Low Wall 223. Both of them are easily sub moa if you don’t rest them too far out on the forend, which causes vertical in these models. To me they feel more solid and satisfying to operate than Ruger No 1s and I prefer the exposed hammer. The triggers are a little heavy, even adjusted down, but reasonably crisp. I need to send the guts to Mr Shaver for a trigger job. I like them a lot and the heavy pull, is my only grievance.

 

[wboggs]

I used to shoot the Browning in 45-70. Trigger was terrible as has been mentioned. Sent it to Mr. Shaver. It was much better but after a few months shooting began to have ADs. I have no confidence you can make the trigger smooth, light, and safe.
Beware of those that say you can.

 

[Rick in Oregon]

My No.1V in 223 has the fore end mod to isolate it from the action and barrel, BUT the addition of a Canjar single set trigger did the trick! The rifle shoots in the .3's consistently now with it's pet load of the 40gr NBT or VG over H335. IMHO, the trigger was the primary reason for the dramatic change in accuracy, but the fore arm mod also made a difference for the better.

I also shoot a Browning 1885 Low Wall in 22 K-Hornet. Local smith did a nice trigger job....talk about a fun rat rifle!