Wilson Dies in a 7/8' press?
- Thread starter Gollum
- Start date
If you dont use an Arbor Press get a 7mmBR Redding Competition seating die and have your gunsmith re chamber the sleave there might be a way if you have a large press like a Redding Big Boss, Ultra Mag or a RCBS Rock Chucker Sepreem. Make a round disk that slips into your ram and then get a piece of threaded rod or a die with the decapper removed and place the hand die in the opening between the die and plate and try it it may work im not sure just thought of it. If you dont want to use an arbor press i would not look at Wilson dies stick with Redding.
Cheers Bill
Australia
Cheers Bill
Australia
I just use my drill press at home and if i want to load at the range and no one has an arbour i just push it down with a block and my 100 odd kgs is easy.
You can use a rubber mallet if you like if it takes too much pressure to seat the projectile your necks are too tight.
You can use a rubber mallet if you like if it takes too much pressure to seat the projectile your necks are too tight.
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
Gollum,
Short answer: no.
Long answer: There are a few options. One, as mentioned, is that you can run these dies w/ a mallet or small dead blow hammer of some sort. I'm not actually sure if it does anything to the accuracy or precision, as all the parts pretty much can only go one way regardless of how you thump them, just that you'd lose any sense of 'feel' of say, seating, or de-priming, etc. There is a press,the Hood press) that can do both hand and threaded dies, but it is specifically made for it, and has a couple different bays, one for each style of die, and isn't cheap at all,$300+ or so). Most people opt for a dedicated arbor press. These can vary wildly, from a fairly cheap affair from a machine tool company,Grizzly.com used to sell one for under $50) meant for use as a bearing press, to the high dollar affairs commonly used by BR shooters such as the K&M and R.W. Hart arbor presses. Biggest difference,besides price) that you'd notice is that the high $$$ units actually have *worse* leverage or mechanical advantage, as that allows you to 'feel' the operation better
Go figure! I suppose if you really wanted to you might be able to pull the decapping pin out of a regular threaded die, screw it partways into a regular press,to where it just sits flush w/ the bottom of the frame), and hold the hand die in there as you operate the lever, assuming you have enough clearance,and dexterity).
Even if you do go w/ the hand dies, you'll need a threaded press for that caliber eventually, as hand dies aren't generally set up for F/L sizing, even if you had an arbor press w/ enough mechanical advantabe to do that sort of work. A lot of people have both setups, hand dies in their pet 'accuracy' calibers and regular 7/8x14 dies for everything else. I do, and I know M700 does also
Monte
Short answer: no.
Long answer: There are a few options. One, as mentioned, is that you can run these dies w/ a mallet or small dead blow hammer of some sort. I'm not actually sure if it does anything to the accuracy or precision, as all the parts pretty much can only go one way regardless of how you thump them, just that you'd lose any sense of 'feel' of say, seating, or de-priming, etc. There is a press,the Hood press) that can do both hand and threaded dies, but it is specifically made for it, and has a couple different bays, one for each style of die, and isn't cheap at all,$300+ or so). Most people opt for a dedicated arbor press. These can vary wildly, from a fairly cheap affair from a machine tool company,Grizzly.com used to sell one for under $50) meant for use as a bearing press, to the high dollar affairs commonly used by BR shooters such as the K&M and R.W. Hart arbor presses. Biggest difference,besides price) that you'd notice is that the high $$$ units actually have *worse* leverage or mechanical advantage, as that allows you to 'feel' the operation better
Go figure! I suppose if you really wanted to you might be able to pull the decapping pin out of a regular threaded die, screw it partways into a regular press,to where it just sits flush w/ the bottom of the frame), and hold the hand die in there as you operate the lever, assuming you have enough clearance,and dexterity).Even if you do go w/ the hand dies, you'll need a threaded press for that caliber eventually, as hand dies aren't generally set up for F/L sizing, even if you had an arbor press w/ enough mechanical advantabe to do that sort of work. A lot of people have both setups, hand dies in their pet 'accuracy' calibers and regular 7/8x14 dies for everything else. I do, and I know M700 does also
Monte
Shynloco
You can lead a horse to water, but ........
IMHO, bad idea!. The WILSON dies were designed to be used with an ARBOR Press for a variety of reasons. Among them is the ability to load your ammo at the range and more importantly a tight alignment of the dies for better concentricity plus you can BETTER feel the bullet being seated which tells you the hardness of the brass and whether a group of brass is releasing the bullet evenly according to your neck tension. A full sized press doesn't provided any of those qualities or functions simply because leverage is introduced via an elongated handle on our bench presses, no matter the make. The bench presses are fine for general reloading, but aren't used for competition reloading (except brass resizing) where every aspect of a reload is critical and repeatability leads to better consistency. Alignment (or misalignment I should say) alone in threading a die not intended/designed to be threaded alone, could negate consistency in seating a bullet that could cause those loads not to align with the chamber within tolerance and cause terrible runout of more than .02. Just my .02 worth.
Alex
How is this going to help the OP. He is re-loading 30 BR which is made fron 6BR brass? dedogs
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