Whidden hydro forming die for 6 dasher?
- Thread starter 406dash
- Start date
I've got one. I formed my recent Dasher brass with it. Takes a little getting used to. It's very important to over blow the shoulder 10 thousandths, but not too much more
Then you crush it down flat. I'm happy with the way it performs.
I came in 3rd at a groundhog match with my fire forming loads.
Then you crush it down flat. I'm happy with the way it performs.
I came in 3rd at a groundhog match with my fire forming loads.
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Give Whidden a call or a email. i sent them a copy of my reamer print and they made one up for me in 6BRX, took a month or 2 to make it
i did 100 rounds and they turned out great , quick and easy to use, once you done you then FL size them back to fit your chamber. i then loaded at my powder charge i new that was accurate and there was no difference in accuracy, at 500m
straight out of die
loaded up and then FF to finish off
and the result at 500m/547y
best money well spent imo, easier than fire forming
i did 100 rounds and they turned out great , quick and easy to use, once you done you then FL size them back to fit your chamber. i then loaded at my powder charge i new that was accurate and there was no difference in accuracy, at 500m
straight out of die
loaded up and then FF to finish off
and the result at 500m/547y
best money well spent imo, easier than fire forming
I've found Hydroforming 6br to Dasher easy and straight forward with the Whidden Hydroform die, they do come out a little shorter than the BRX and 6br OAL but it doesn't appear to harm accuracy at all IME..Beats fire forming, no need for extra wear on barrel or more powder, primers and projectiles. I've recommended it to a couple of other shooters who are also pleased with the results from the Whidden Hydro Die. Go the mighty Dasher.
Cheers Rushty
Thanks guys, i appreciate all the answers. i was curious because i own one of these dies and its been rough going. I've made great brass with it but "getting used to it" never really happened. The first piston set they came out with for it leaked horribly even when i torqued it down hard with wrenches which i felt i should not have to do. Whidden advised me to wrap it in plumbers tape and even electric tape which for the price felt wrong to me. Then I had problems with the piston rods swelling up so they wouldn't fit any longer even with the piston backed off, so a few threads were exposed. I felt i was hitting the piston for the most part square and with adequate force, but i was told i was mis-using the product. About a year later I found they had come out with an entirely new piston system due to complaints which I just finished trying. A definite improvement but the entire system is dependent on two little o rings that eventually crack. The Hornady one seems a little more durable and I may try that next. Whidden makes great dies and I love their full length bushing die but unfortunately this one was not for me.
CaptainMal
Silver $$ Contributor
That forming case looks all rounded. Then you have to fire-form it anyhow.
If I go hot enough my fire formed Lapua stuff looks sharp and fits perfect. To go careful and low in pressure results in the rounded stuff.
I just like to do "one and done". The right method will do that.
If I go hot enough my fire formed Lapua stuff looks sharp and fits perfect. To go careful and low in pressure results in the rounded stuff.
I just like to do "one and done". The right method will do that.
None of you have a fire forming barrel?
Sadly, many people don't have a fire forming barrel, nor do they switch barrels. They have a gun built and use it. Think about someone just getting into high precision shooting. Doubtful they've got a few barrels. And, let's not forget that the brass from your fire forming barrel will still not be perfectly matched to your competition barrel chamber.
What I do like most about hydro forming is I can do that outside the deck, since I no longer live out in the country, that eliminates a trip to the range just for fire form. One thing I like specifically about the way Whidden advises to do it is you hydro blow the rounded shoulder 10 thousandths further than a light crush in your chamber. You than run that through your sizing die to flatten the shoulder out to the Dasher's 40 degrees, yet leave just a slight crush fit. That lets me shoot my full load, since the case is nearly fully formed, without needing to jam a bullet or use a false shoulder. I can get decent accuracy with them on the first firing. Plenty enough for a groundhog type of match. Matter of fact, the last time I shot my Dasher was with hydro formed cases at a local groundhog match. I came in third. This was my first ever groundhog match and I'd never seen the targets before. Had I, that coyote would have fared worse for score ;-)
As with many aspects of our sport, each to their own. Every one has to adapt to their situation and opportunities.
What I do like most about hydro forming is I can do that outside the deck, since I no longer live out in the country, that eliminates a trip to the range just for fire form. One thing I like specifically about the way Whidden advises to do it is you hydro blow the rounded shoulder 10 thousandths further than a light crush in your chamber. You than run that through your sizing die to flatten the shoulder out to the Dasher's 40 degrees, yet leave just a slight crush fit. That lets me shoot my full load, since the case is nearly fully formed, without needing to jam a bullet or use a false shoulder. I can get decent accuracy with them on the first firing. Plenty enough for a groundhog type of match. Matter of fact, the last time I shot my Dasher was with hydro formed cases at a local groundhog match. I came in third. This was my first ever groundhog match and I'd never seen the targets before. Had I, that coyote would have fared worse for score ;-)
As with many aspects of our sport, each to their own. Every one has to adapt to their situation and opportunities.
Yes this is my 1st barrel so no 2nd barrel to FF. But hydro forming saves money imo
Yeah my hydro die they sent me had the new piston. Yes you need to keep an eye on the O rings as they will wear and get damaged in process, but I have spares as I have O ring kits in my shed
Once filled with water always make sure plunger compresses the water by pushing it down with fingers before you hit it
If it does go down take out and add water again as you get an air pocket sometimes
Yeah my hydro die they sent me had the new piston. Yes you need to keep an eye on the O rings as they will wear and get damaged in process, but I have spares as I have O ring kits in my shed
Once filled with water always make sure plunger compresses the water by pushing it down with fingers before you hit it
If it does go down take out and add water again as you get an air pocket sometimes
One quick tip from my experience. After you fill the case and raise it into the hydro die, use a syringe or plastic bottle with small spout to fill the hydro did up about half way. That really made a good case for me. Just measure as you start to get the hydro formed shoulder only .010" beyond a slight crush. The size and shoot. Most people don't consider any brass formed to their case until it's been fired. This gives me the most accurate forming brass I've been able to make.
Here's a picture of my first run with my Whidden hydro die.
Left to right
1. 6mm BR turned
2. Hydro formed (was actually blown .030 instead of .010 it should have been)
3. case after running through Whidden Dasher sizing die to set shoulder back to only a slight crush fit in my chamber
4. case after firing in groundhog match with regular Dasher load (same powder, same jump)
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