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Whidden 300 Norma Improved Hydrulic-Form Die *VIDEOS ADDED*

Ledd Slinger

Silver $$ Contributor
Recently received my new custom hydraulic form die from Whidden for my 300 Norma Mag Improved and thought I'd post my results.

This is my first form die and it seems to work pretty well. My Improved version of the 300 Norma utilizes a 35 degree shoulder and only has .018" total body taper from the case .200" line to the shoulder.

The die does not produce nice sharp shoulder angles like a case fired in the rifle will, but it does a pretty good job of forming the 35 degree shoulder. However, my main reason in wanting the forming die was to get the body taper out of the virgin 300 NM cases prior to firing. A standard 300 Norma case has about .010" less diameter at the shoulder than my Improved version (.560" vs. .570"). Without removing the body taper on a case prior to firing, the round cannot sit centered in the chamber very well when testing 'jump' seating depths. In regards to body taper, the hydro die produces brass with a shoulder diameter that is nearly identical to a fired case so it is doing exactly what I want. And of course the internal case capacity after hydro-forming is also much closer to a fired case. Hopefully this will allow me to trust the accuracy and speed results on unifired cases with a little more confidence.

The instructions say to give the forming die "2-3 light to medium strength strikes" with a hammer. This does not work very well on the big Norma case. Having only tried water, I found that I have to use a good size framing hammer and 5-6 fairly stout strikes to move all the brass where it needs to be.

Pictures of results below.

LEFT: Virgin 300 Norma Mag case
MIDDLE: 300 NMI Hydro-formed case
RIGHT: 300 NMI fired case

20190530_143613.jpg


Shoulder diameters of all 3 cases. The hydroformed case almost matches the exact diameter of a fire-formed case. Order of cases is the same as above.

Virgin brass
20190530_220231.jpg

Hydro-formed brass
20190530_220257.jpg

Fire-formed brass
20190530_220310.jpg
 
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Great info, thanks for sharing. Be sure to post future results with your build please.

Tony.
 
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Recently received my new custom hydro-form die from Whidden for my 300 Norma Mag Improved and thought I'd post my results.

This is my first hydro-form die and it seems to work pretty well. My Improved version of the 300 Norma utilizes a 35 degree shoulder and only has .018" total body taper from the case .200" line to the shoulder.

The die does not produce nice sharp shoulder angles like a case fired in the rifle will, but it does a pretty good job of forming the 35 degree shoulder. However, my main reason in wanting the forming die was to get the body taper out of the virgin 300 NM cases prior to firing. A standard 300 Norma case has about .010" less diameter at the shoulder than my Improved version (.560" vs. .570"). Without removing the body taper on a case prior to firing, the round cannot sit centered in the chamber very well when testing 'jump' seating depths. In regards to body taper, the hydro die produces brass with a shoulder diameter that is nearly identical to a fired case so it is doing exactly what I want. And of course the internal case capacity after hydro-forming is also much closer to a fired case. Hopefully this will allow me to trust the accuracy and speed results on unifired cases with a little more confidence.

The instructions say to give the forming die "2-3 light to medium strength strikes" with a hammer. This does not work very well on the big Norma case. Having only tried water, I found that I have to use a good size framing hammer and 5-6 fairly stout strikes to move all the brass where it needs to be.

Pictures of results below.

LEFT: Virgin 300 Norma Mag case
MIDDLE: 300 NMI Hydro-formed case
RIGHT: 300 NMI fired case

View attachment 1108190


Shoulder diameters of all 3 cases. The hydroformed case almost matches the exact diameter of a fire-formed case. Order of cases is the same as above.

Virgin brass
View attachment 1108191

Hydro-formed brass
View attachment 1108192

Fire-formed brass
View attachment 1108193
Just curious how the rubber seals around the plunger held up and the top of the plunger that’s struck with the hammer?
 
Good, but I've only done a few cases so far to test it out. No water escapes when striking it. When I lower the press ram, I wrap a rag around the case as it comes out to catch the little bit of water that was above the case.

I'm sure Whidden would replace the seals if I ever have an issue with leaks. Their customer service is really good.
 
Good, but I've only done a few cases so far to test it out. No water escapes when striking it. When I lower the press ram, I wrap a rag around the case as it comes out to catch the little bit of water that was above the case.

I'm sure Whidden would replace the seals if I ever have an issue with leaks. Their customer service is really good.
Ok...a few cases won’t wear on them much, curious to hear your thoughts after 100-200 or so..
 
I put together a little video for you folks.

Been messing around with the Whidden hydro form die more and came up with some tips and tricks that might help folks when using the die. Hope you can get some useful info from it since the video on the Whidden website is pretty basic.

 
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I will add that the new Lapua cases end up with much nicer shoulders in the form die than the Peterson brass does.
 
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So I found some issues with the setup on the Whidden Hydraulic Form die. DO NOT set it up as per the recommendation in the video on Whidden's website unless you like having very excessive headspace. Below is another video I produced explaining why the Whidden setup recommendation is incorrect and how to properly set the die up.

 
Do you need more practice by chance? Lol
Im good. Lol. But you can borrow the die anytime you want.

Formed 50 pieces of Lapua brass for the current rifle and I have no idea when the PPs will fail. 5 firings with the last two runs all being hot loads and they are still in great shape. No plans on forming more until these fail
 
I'm good, just harassing you, although I'm sure you could get it fully formed earlier.

Tom
Yeah the benefit of using the die is that I can run full power loads on the first fireforming of the brass which results in a better chamber match for the second go round to finish off. After the second firing with full power loads the brass is settled in pretty good.

Fire forming from virgin state with a lighter load is fine to get it going, but I think the brass still needs a couple full power loads to fully form.
 
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Lead Slinger,
I'm glad I saw this old thread as it addresses the issues I have been concerned about with Hydraulic dies. I am getting ready to order Die body Blanks and make several Hydro form dies and have been thinking about running the reamer just a little deep then sizing before first loading. Doing for the same reason as you, to be able to run full loads and being very close to finished load results off fully formed brass. Your method will work just as well though.

I do have an old heavyyyy duty Herters press I will use and mount on my shop bench though to eliminate the bouncing of everything in the room and a little water spillage. haha

Thanks again, good info

Glenn
 

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