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Which Savage rifle in 6.5 Creedmore for long Range

Okay, so there a couple long range matches within driving distance and I am thinking I would like to jump in. I am thinking production class is the way to go and I love Savage rifles. My dillema is whether to go with a model 10 BA, Model10 BA Ashbury or the model 12 Long rang precision. I know the BA has the advantage of a removeable mag plus it is very adjustable. I have to admit that I like the look of the LRP with HS precision stock a lot better. what are your thoughts? Be forewarned I don't give a tinkers dam what someone from HS did 10 or 15 years ago.
 
12fv in 6.5 CM, 26" heavy bbl, target bolt, adjustable trigger & on sale pretty consistantly at $369 at cabelas, no reason it wont do the same as the other Savages if you have a need for a 6.5cm.
 
12fv in 6.5 CM, 26" heavy bbl, target bolt, adjustable trigger & on sale pretty consistantly at $369 at cabelas, no reason it wont do the same as the other Savages if you have a need for a 6.5cm.

I did this in a 223 a few months ago. After it was all said and done, I would have been money ahead to buy one with a DBM and decent stock. Stock on those FV's are garbage, but heck for $370 I wouldn't expect anything more. Mine about crippled me shooting prone with it and it didn't shoot with a bipod worth a crap, too flexible I think.

Ended up buying one of the new B&C comp stocks and factory savage DBM metal and I love it. Shoots redicuously well out to about 900, wind screws with those small bullets though.
 
i would go with the Ashbury and grab a XLR butttstock to replace the factory and you got one hell of a rig.

What type of matches are you planning to attend?
 
I have the 12 LRP. Feels comfortable shooting it from bench/bags but can't say for accuracy. First trip to the range and my scope crapped out. Haven't had a chance to go again.
 
i would go with the Ashbury and grab a XLR butttstock to replace the factory and you got one hell of a rig.

What type of matches are you planning to attend?
Eric, I live in Maine and I understand that there are some PRS matches within a 3 hour drive. It looks pretty interesting. Also,there are a couple of F class matches closer to me that I would like to shoot as well. I want to stick with a production rifle so that I can shoot F class as well as stock devision in PRS. Let me know if I have got it wrong. Thanks.
 
My LRPV Rt bolt Left port in .223 is very nice. I know you're talking 6.5CM, and they make it in that caliber I believe. I also bought the 3" BR stock from them and put that on myself. Be SURE to ask for the action bolts as they are different than the originals off the McMillan.
 
The 12 LRP is a precision target action (PTA) repeater with a large shank bbl and red blade accutrugger. The 10 is a standard shank and accutrigger. I have an LRP and prefer the PTA.
 
The 12 LRP is a precision target action (PTA) repeater with a large shank bbl and red blade accutrugger. The 10 is a standard shank and accutrigger. I have an LRP and prefer the PTA.

IMHO, if you are serious about winning, go with the Model 12 which is far superior to the other models. If you just want to to shoot for the heck of it, the 10 will do just fine. It's not even fair to compare the models if you shoot for score.

Alex
 
LRP for sure as long as you don't need a magazine. Maybe pick up the action that was listed on this site, order a Criterion barrel from Northland Shooters and get a nice aftermarket stock.
 
The 12 LRP is a precision target action (PTA) repeater with a large shank bbl and red blade accutrugger. The 10 is a standard shank and accutrigger. I have an LRP and prefer the PTA.
FIRST thing I did was swap out the accutrigger for a rifle basix at 8 ozs.
 
Some things for you to consider, in no particular order of importance:
1. A 6.5 Creedmoor competes in the F-Open class and most factory rifles are not designed to fire from a front rest without extra attachments.
2. You will need a magazine to shoot PRS. You can still shoot F-Class with a magazine but will give up some accuracy due to a more flexable action.
3. F-Class mid range is less dependent on ultra high magnification target scopes which cost a lot and are not ideal for PRS matches.
4. F-TR allows you to use a bipod and a good one like Atlas works and also in PRS.
5. The only rounds you can use in F-TR are 308 Win. and 223 Rem.
6. After your factory barrel craps out there are many high quality replacement barrels in various calibers and lengths, and are easily replaced.
7. To compete successfully at F-Class long range almost requires a dedicated rifle and optic with great attention to reloading precision ammunition.
8. F-Class rifles are usually heavy and only suitable for prone slow fire.
9. PRS rifles are of necessity lighter and suitable for firing from multiple positions and moving from firing point to firing point.

What ever you decide on, remember the Savage action gives you options as you decide which way you want to go. Have fun and be safe.
 
It's always interesting to read the opinions that come up when certain types of questions are asked. Equipment decisions are always fun to read especially if there are rules by which you have to abide in order to compete.

Here are the rules for PRS Production Class:

“Production Division combined rifle and scope MSRP as listed on the company’s website shall not exceed $3,000 USD, the rifle shall not exceed $2,000 USD and the optic not exceed $2,000 USD.


Production Division rifles are not permitted to be altered or improved in any way from the original factory configuration.


In an effort to prevent exorbitant costs for beginning shooters, Production Division round count will not exceed 80 rounds.”


In that vein, here is another entry into the PRS Productions Class with everything being discussed:

http://masterpiecearms.com/shop/mpa-ba-lite-pcr-competition-rifle/

There is the Tikka and the GRS mentioned above and the Ruger RPR, all of which are made for this class participation. There are others I'm sure.
http://masterpiecearms.com/shop/mpa-ba-lite-pcr-competition-rifle/
Although the terms competing or competition gets bandied about without care occasionally, the OP simply states that he wants to 'jump in', not necessarily be fully competitive right off the bat. With that in mind, two things can be considered just for getting started and to get your feet wet:

A good bipod, handled properly, can be very competitive, ask the F-TR folks. So a forend which isn't 3" to 5" wide can certainly be considered in the beginning. The SEB Joy-Pod come to mind if you want to be slightly extravagant. Otherwise any of the better bipods can be suitable.

If a front rest IS desired, there are replacement bags available to accommodate nearly every forearm every created. No, the 'sporter-type' bags may not be perfect for controlling the rifles movement but it is a start nonetheless.

PRS will require a DBM system of some sort but remember you will need multiple magazines for convenience and speed.

There are challenges to accommodating all of the various forms of competition especially if the forms utilized in those competitions run slightly contrary to each other. The idea is to welcome new people, get new people started and help bring them along so that they feel that they are a part of the competitive shooting fraternity.

Regards.
 
Stop drinking the kool-aide, you don't "need a 6.5 Creedmore.
And what would you recommend he get? If he wants a bit more impact on the target for spotting, and rightfully realizes that the 308 isn't competitive in this game, then a 6.5 is a great option. The Creedmoor is the only widely available 6.5 in factory rifles. I'm sorry if that upsets you.
 

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