Which Extractor for 6BR

[Wingzero]

I have a Remington 700 308 that I'm planning to re barrel to 6BR.
I understand that I may have to bush the firing pin hole but instead of sending the bolt for bushing and threading of the bolt handle, I might as well buy a 1 piece bolt from PTG with a small firing pin hole and pre threaded bolt handle.

The question is which extractor will work best with 6BR, the standard Remington, Sako or the M16 (mini)?

I want to do this on my own, so I'm planning to use a Remage barrel from Criterion and a single shot stock with aluminum bedding block. The purpose of this rifle is just a range toy. Thanks in advance.

 

[DanS]

Sako or the M16 (mini) if your wanting to use the ejector. I would remove the ejector on a single shot, then any of the three would work.

 

[Preacher]

If you buy the PT&G one piece bolt don't forget it will need to have the lugs set back for proper headspacing..
Any of the extractors you mentioned will work with the 6 BR..
A new PT&G bolt will cost a lot more than having it bushed and threaded !!!!!

 

[Wingzero]

Sako or the M16 (mini) if your wanting to use the ejector. I would remove the ejector on a single shot, then any of the three would work.

Good to know that that the Remington extractor will work. I have no experience with the other 2 extractors on a Remington 700 but I never had a problem with the regular extractor.
If I remove the ejector, do I have to plug the ejector hole?

 

[Wingzero]

If you buy the PT&G one piece bolt don't forget it will need to have the lugs set back for proper headspacing..
Any of the extractors you mentioned will work with the 6 BR..
A new PT&G bolt will cost a lot more than having it bushed and threaded !!!!!

Please explain setting back the lugs for proper headspace. Do I need to do that with Remage barrel?

Cost of Bushing and threading at Gre-Tan is $148.

Cost of 1 piece bolt is $167.
http://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=308_4_101_103&products_id=172
Small firing pin is $20.

I was thinking that the $40 difference is worth it for a 1 piece bolt and I can also specify the bolt diameter.

 

[OIF/OEF]

If you are going to have a new barrel installed go ahead and buy the PT&G bolt. Your smith will insure the headspace is correct with the new bolt. Sell your old bolt and recoup most of your money for your new bolt.


Very Respectfully

 

[Dave L Kiff]

Ask yourself , Self do I want a Cobbled up Three or Four piece pressed , welded, soldered and what ever they do to true a factory bolt and it still be a factory bolt or a preciously ground one piece bolt with an integral handle. A bolt like the Stiller, Marsh, Military MK-13 and many other very nice actions have ? Heck we are now even offering our one piece bolt body with the .062 pin hole for the folks that like the old Remington handle with a Armstrong Weld , Also Setting the back side of the lugs back on a virgin precision ground one piece bolt is because Remington and some other receivers if trued or not have a wide Tolerance from the factory so its almost a must . Thanks Dave

 

[Webster]

I have a Rem 700 BDL varmint model. Short action. It was originally a 6MM Rem. Kelbly put a Kreiger 14 twist 6BR Norma barrel on it 5 yrs ago. I don't see any reason not to use the stock bolt. It works fine. The firing pin hole could be a little tighter but it's not a problem or safety issue. If you put $100 plus into a new bolt all you would accomplish is to have a smaller crater around the primer. I have heard that the Sako extractor creates dangerous shrapnel if you ever blow up the action. More small pieces to get launched.

If anyone is interested Kelbly's range is closed to non-competitors for the Super Shoot 11 May - 26 May.

 

[Killshot]

I had Tannel bush/sleeve my one-piece bolt, he also removed the ejector and filled the hole and refaced the bolt. (done prior to rechambering, so headspace was dealt with).

I think the Remington extractor works best. I have pulled many overpressured cases out without a failure (I do keep a spare), I don't like removing bolt lug material to make way for a Sako/M16. Three rings of steel, baby.

 

[coford]

I have gone down both paths in the past. I had Gretan bush a bolt so I could use the smaller firing pin (Greg did an awesome job with this), I had already had someone thread the bolt handle, and my gunsmith had already trued up my bolt on a previous re-barreling. Everything works great and I am pleased with it.

About a year ago, for another rifle with a bad bolt face, I bought a one piece bolt, with the small firing pin hole, fluted, with the mini m-16 extractor, and with a threaded handle from PT&G. I think it ended up being around $260+ by the time I bought the extractor, ejector, bolt, and handle.

The first method got me what I wanted for about $100 less money. The new bolt is prettier, the m-16 extractor is awesome and the bolt is square and true. If on a budget do it the piecemeal way - if not on a budget get the PT&G bolt - you will be happy with it.

 

[tashabay716]

Listen to Dave Kiff or as Yoda (Dave Kiff) would say "Tell them I did, Listen they did not, sorry they will be!"