• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Which Die set for F/TR 308?

I use the redding body die with the redding shell holder set. The shell holder set takes the guess work out of bumping. Then use Lee collet die to neck size and decap.
 
I used to use a decapping die, but found it to be a waste of time. I've simplified the brass manipulation for my F-TR match ammo over time. I use a small base F/L Redding S-type bushing die with the expander ball removed but with the decaping pin installed using the small included grommet. I lube with Imperial Wax.

Then I tumble the brass, anneal with my Gireaud annealer, prime, measure and load powder with my Chargemaster 1500 and then I seat the bullets with a Redding Competition Seating die. I leave the dies in my Redding T-7 turret press so no messing around with them.
 
I went the body die route because of the stories of donuts forming faster with bushing dies...seems to be stories both ways on the bushing dies.

+1 in the redding seating die.
 
Why do you anneal after you size your cases?

My understanding is you want to anneal before sizing so that the cases all size the same due to being the same hardness after annealing. That way you have very similar neck tension for your cases.

What are your thoughts in this regard?

(Sorry if this is a highjack, if so, just PM me your thoughts if able.)


bayou shooter said:
I used to use a decapping die, but found it to be a waste of time. I've simplified the brass manipulation for my F-TR match ammo over time. I use a small base F/L Redding S-type bushing die with the expander ball removed but with the decaping pin installed using the small included grommet. I lube with Imperial Wax.

Then I tumble the brass, anneal with my Gireaud annealer, prime, measure and load powder with my Chargemaster 1500 and then I seat the bullets with a Redding Competition Seating die. I leave the dies in my Redding T-7 turret press so no messing around with them.
 
So is the Type S bushing FL die a better idea than a normal non bushing fl die? Would I be safe getting a Type S fl die and competition seating die , then later buying a Type S neck die? Is there any disadvantages to using a bushing style die?

Thanks
 
I don't know from neck dies, I never use them.

The Type-S FL bushing dies is a great way to make sure your cases are consistent from load to load. The bushing makes sure the neck and mouth are not overworked and you can set the dies to push back the shoulder just so. In my setup, the F/L bushing die bumps the shoulder back about .001 below the fired dimension and when I chamber a round, I get the slightest hint of resistance just as I close the bolt. This tells me the case is at the exact size it needs to be and will not have head space/separation issues throughout its life.

I prefer to use a small base F/L die because my chamber is very tight and I want absolutely no issue loading and unloading cartridges during a match.
 
kyreloader said:
Why do you anneal after you size your cases?

My understanding is you want to anneal before sizing so that the cases all size the same due to being the same hardness after annealing. That way you have very similar neck tension for your cases.

What are your thoughts in this regard?

(Sorry if this is a highjack, if so, just PM me your thoughts if able.)

Good question. Up until recently, I was annealing before resizing. However, I found it to be an issue if the cases were not clean. So, by switching the order of steps, I now anneal clean cases that have been sized. I do not believe it makes a difference whether you anneal before or after sizing, but with my sequence the cases will be clean.

BTW, the instructions with the Giraud annealer say that you can anneal before or after sizing. I figure since I use a machine and do it often, there would not be much if any variations.
 
The Redding .308 Bushing S-Type F/L small base die I use is number 77355. I use this die from the first reload of virgin cases and throughout their life. The intent of a small base die is to "squeeze" the base of the case a little more than a regular die. This is the area that will expand some throughout the life of the case, especially when using stout loads. Some people believe using small base dies reduces case life, in my experience, it does not if you use it from the first reload.

I recently checked 8x fired cases always resized with the small base die in a cartridge guage and the slipped right in with no pressure. I measure the case head OD just above the extractor groove, it was right at spec.

To me, this technique ensures that my cases are the same dimension load after load. Consistency is important to me.
 
So far, all posts recommend Redding, which certainly makes very good dies.

I'd also suggest looking at Forster's Bushing-Bump sizer plus its 'Ultra' (micrometer top) BR seater. Superb quality and much cheaper (here in the UK anyway) than Redding.

Bushing-Bump is an interchangeable bushing type neck-sizer, plus partial body die that only changes ('bumps') the shoulder position. Neck-sized only brass sees the shoulder move forward quite quickly which produces a longitudinal crush-fit in the chamber. I set mine up (using callipers and the Stoney-Point / Hornady L-N-L comparator body plus headspace gauge #D400 to measure a selection of fireformed brass) to set the shoulder back 0.001-0.002" on each resizing. I generally find I junk the cases before I need to full-length 'body-size' the cases if I keep them to one rifle and chamber.

Since this is mainly a neck-sizer, you need to buy a full-length or body sizer die too just in case you start to get hard chambering despite the shoulder set-back. It's a must too whenever you change rifle and / or rebarrel an existing piece. Otherwise, the need and frequency of use depend on your loads, brass and chamber dimensions and how much fired cases expand. I use a Redding Type-S bushing full-length die for this, but a simpler, cheaper body only die is fine. Sadly, Redding and Forster bushings are not interchangeable (although Wilson / redding models are).

All this assumes we're talking target shooting with a bolt-action rifle and one with a reasonable chamber at that. Many factory rifles give better results with full-length sized cases because their chambers are marginally out of true and/or are marginally non-concentric to the bore. FL sizing (whether with a conventional die, bushing die, or neck + body die) returns the case to a round concentric condition and restores consistency to the round and bullet position vis a vis the bore for every shot.

If we're talking semi-auto rifle and/or a 100% need for easy slick chambering, full-length sizing is needed on each and every loading. Small-base dies are only normally required with some relatively tight-chambered semi-auto match rifles and aren't normally used in bolt-guns. Most XTC semi-auto shooters tell you they neither need nor use a small-base die even in this application.
 
I would recommend forster dies as they are significantly less money and offer the same comp seater with a micrometer top etc. They are easily as good as any on the market,they have bump dies and bushing dies etc. Just a thought. Redding makes a great product,prettier etc but the forster does the exact same thing.
 
Laurie, I totally agree with you that conventional widsom holds that the use of small base dies is only for semi autos and even then, it's not really needed.

I recently compared my 8x fired Lapua brass always resized with a small base die to unfired, out of the box, virgin Lapua brass and could find no measurable differences between them at the base, above the extractor groove, along the body and at the neck. The OD was the same everywhere. And the primer pockets are still tight and hold the primer.

I use a stout load of Varget, just .5gr under maximum and as I said, my chamber is tight.

I also know that in other tight chambers, resizing with regular dies allowed the cases to grow above the extractor groove and the head and along the body.

It is entirely possible that I purchased batches of magical cases over the years, or that I have had such tight chambers the brass simply cannot expand yet is able to slip in and out without any issues. I also realise these are totaly unscientific tests and observations; this is completely annecdotal but for me it works and works great.

I can also assure you that if you start resizing your brass with regular (non small-base) dies and then switch to SB dies during the life of the case, you will not get the benefit of the SB die and the handle on the press will be quite difficult to push down, and back up. Make sure you use a lot of Imperial Wax or else. (Don't ask how I know this.)

I am not recommending that people use small base dies (brass companies need to sell brass,) I am just passing along my observations. The usual caveat applies; Your Mileage May Vary.
 
This would be for a single shot bolt action being used in F/TR. So the Redding bushing neck die doesnt bump the sholder? Is there a disadvantage to the Forster F/L and neck die where they arent a bushing die? Would I be safe in just getting either the Forster F/L and Ultra seater alone then adding a neck sizer or bushing bump die down the road or would a Redding Competition Seater/Bushing f/l die be a better starting point the add the neck sizer?

Thanks
 
Laurie, that's all they are; observations. Anyone can draw their own conclusions from them, including the distinct possibility that I have no clue what I am doing, seeing and reporting.

Happy New Year, by the way.
 
TrxR said:
This would be for a single shot bolt action being used in F/TR. So the Redding bushing neck die doesnt bump the sholder? Is there a disadvantage to the Forster F/L and neck die where they arent a bushing die? Would I be safe in just getting either the Forster F/L and Ultra seater alone then adding a neck sizer or bushing bump die down the road or would a Redding Competition Seater/Bushing f/l die be a better starting point the add the neck sizer?

Thanks

You're correct about the Redding neck-sizer. The Forster B-B is the only such die from the major die-makers that I know of. That type was a limited speciality producer only tool until Forster adopted the idea.

You can happily use a standard Forster F-L die set with or without the Ultra seater upgrade and its extra cost, and as you suggest upgrade to a bushing type at a later date when finances allow, assuming you still want to try fancier kit at that stage.

Forster stuff is very, very good indeed. The only downside - and this applies to any make of standard non-bushing sizer whether neck or full-length is the amount you work the case-neck brass. The makers of non-adjustable dies have to take into account variations in the thickness built into any of no end of makes and sources of case. I have a lot of old 1980s vintage Norma brass, the infamous 160gn batches, that has necks that run from twelve to thirteen thou' thickness while Lapua 308W averages fifteen thou' in most batches but can be a thou' either side depending on lot. I'm sure there are yet thicker military cases around. So standard dies over-size the neck downwards as you pull the press handle, then use an expander button or ball to take it back up to around the correct dimensions for a bullet to be seated and gripped firmly. I say 'around' as neck tension depends mostly on the expander button diameter, but also partly on brass thickness, metallic alloy composition and degree of annealing, number of times fired, work hardening etc, etc - a lot more to encompass than most handloaders think about.

The result of having to cope with almost everything is that you end up working the brass more than is needed and the die / expander often impart more neck tension on the bullet than is ideal. Move to a bushing die and you decide, not the die-maker, how much sizing you're going to do and how much neck tension you want in your ammunition. (I run with much less tension than I'd get with standard dies for my F/TR ammo, both 223 and 308, and this is fairly common in this game.)

An alternative low-cost solution that I see many people on this forum advocate is to use a Lee Collet die, a neck-sizer that is semi-adjustable and can be used to set tension fairly low, plus a Redding or similar body die. The collet type gives very good results as long as the rifle chamber is a good one - it won't 'true-up' cases whose necks are a little off concentricity in their fireformed state. The body die keeps the shoulder back as well as full-length sizing everything bar the neck. I used Lee collet dies for many, many years going back to when Lee first introduced them and they worked very well in I don't know how many different cartridges. I still use them sometimes to save time and effort (no lubing needed, just clean the case neck and shoulder), but they do quickly produce tightish chambering if used on their own just on the necks. Although Lee claims its 'dead-length' seater supplied with the Collet in two/three die set form gives great results, it's not as good as Redding or Forster in my experience, although I'll likely stand challenged by some users on that.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,263
Messages
2,215,461
Members
79,508
Latest member
Jsm4425
Back
Top