Which action wrench to buy for Remington 700

[k80skeet]

I am looking to buy a action wrench for Remington 700. Is the one that slips inside the action better than the one that goes over the outside of the action? where can I buy the one that goes inside?

 

[fdshuster]

k80skeet: Davidson rear entry wrench -2, Sinclair 2010-A catalog, page 182, for $47.95. I also bought the Davidson barrel vice at the same time, and am very happy with both.

 

[k80skeet]

Frank, On the Davidson barrel vice what do you use for barrel blocks? Wood or aluminum or wood are they bought or home made. The wood blocks I bought from Mid-Way don't work very well they have stright drilled holes through not tapered like most sporter barrels.

 

[clowdis]

If you try to remove a really stubborn factory barrel you might find that the outside wrench is a better tool. It won't torque up like the internal wrench will. If you're only dealing with custom barrels that are installed with 100 lb/ft or less of torque, haven't been locktighted or rusted, then an internal action wrench will work fine.

 

[Steve Blair]

I use the Surgeon wrench and have removed both factory and replacement barrels. One 700 long action from the early 70s was a pain to remove and required a little heat to the receiver ring. If you do apply heat, be very careful, it does not take that much.

http://www.surgeonrifles.com/products/accessories/?module=products&product_id=147

 

[fdshuster]

K80skeet: Ditto to what clowdis said, an internal rear action wrench won't cut it for removing most factory installed barrels, and I let my gunsmith do those. They work fine for my switch-barrels, set at 65 Ft. Lb. of torque, and I would agree, approx. 100 Ft. Lb. may be in the range of their limitations. Believe it or not, I cover the straight section of my barrels (where there is no step-down taper in front of the chamber), with numerous continual wrapping using heavy brown paper from grocery shopping bags, then tighten the top V-block on the Davidson barrel vice, really tight. Some will add rosen to the barrel surface. I have never put a mark on my polished blued, polished stainless, or glass beaded barrels using the heavy paper wrap. Simple but effective.

 

[Brodie]

If you are trying to remove a factory barrel, the davidson rear entry tool is a good way to warp your action, and the davidson vise isn't up to par for this task (I own both).
Check out brownells big action wrech that clamps around the front ring and their barrel vises.

 

[k80skeet]

Thanks, To all that responded this is just the information I was looking for!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Gun Smith]

Two thumbs up for the Surgeon wrench. I have a rear entry one that I've used for years, but was always afraid of twisting an action. I "Surgically" removed a really tight 70's era 7mm Mag off yesterday with no problem. Used a cheater pipe on a 1/2" ratchet wrench. Nice tool.

 

[CoverDog]

I use both a Bench-Source barrel vise and also their rear entry action wrench. A 30 year old factory Savage action was no match for this combination.

As far as barrels slipping in the vise. I wrap thin leather ( 1/8" thick x 1 1/2" wide, cut from an old pair of cowboy boots) around the barrel and it won't move in the vise and it doesn't leave a mark.

 

[WesG260]

I fiddled with wood blocks. Pointless. Made a steel clamp and turned/bored aluminum sleeves (slit after of course) to mate with a couple 'standard' dials and tapers.

But I don't worry about smearing a trace of aluminum on a barrel ... they're almost all SS.

 

[Judd]

I’m guessing after 15 years…he’s already made a decision Wes

 

[WesG260]

Yeah, I'm likely brain dead after all these years ...

But I do like my Whiskey ... a fair bit more than 15 years ...

A bit disturbing though, the 'rear entry tool' ... but I don't judge... 'it's all good' ...the

 

[DR_2297]

I have a Davidson set I use for most stuff that has been rebarreled. For anything factory assembled or of unknown origin I have an outside wrench I made about 25 years ago that locks up with the forward action screw and a Brownell’s barrel vise with steel inserts. I use some powdered rosin for additional “grip”.

For the wrap around, I have a 24” steel handle that screws into the body with a shoulder on it so it won’t bend at the threads and usually a solid whack with a big lead filled mallet breaks things loose.

Haven’t had one I couldn’t get apart yet.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Yeah, I'm likely brain dead after all these years ...

But I do like my Whiskey ... a fair bit more than 15 years ...

A bit disturbing though, the 'rear entry tool' ... but I don't judge... 'it's all good' ...the

The older threads are usually golden treasures, I always enjoy seeing the discussion’s.

 

[Steel Mover]

Worked in different shops for years, when they got behind and needed an extra hand. Learned that both wrenches were better than just one at times and the barrel vice best be floor mounted and an I beam or box beam of steel.
The Win or Remingtons usually are not too bad, but military Mausers can be a mother bear. I have the Brownells heavy vice and wrench's in my shop with the action screw hole in the wrench.

 

[LVLAaron]

Worked in different shops for years, when they got behind and needed an extra hand. Learned that both wrenches were better than just one at times and the barrel vice best be floor mounted and an I beam or box beam of steel.
The Win or Remingtons usually are not too bad, but military Mausers can be a mother bear. I have the Brownells heavy vice and wrench's in my shop with the action screw hole in the wrench.

A standalone vice on a beam like you mentioned is something I'm looking forward to having in my new shop. I saw a guy who uses a harbor freight 20ton press. Thought that was pretty darn clever.

 

[Fast14riot]

I found these guys on ebay, but bought direct from their site. Very reasonable price for 700 tools. The bolt tool body is delrin so doesn't mar finishes. I paid $80 shipped for both tools. Moonduck.net. Action wrench is hardened and its made in USA by them, according to their site.