Wheel guns... opinions?

[Sniper338]

Looks like ill be getting one or two new revolvers sometime soon. Im a s&w lover.

617- 22lr

686, 686+, 686 competitor/performance center are the three im looking at. 6 inch barrel..

OR colt python.. I got an itch for one, fairly similar frame as a 686.

I just need to put my hands on em all..

 

[tominboise]

I have a couple (Ok, three) K frame 22's. They are damn nice, especially after I cleaned up the cylinders with a reamer so they will eject properly. I also have a 686+, 4" prelock version. It shoots and handles great. I can recommend them without reservation.

I've not handled or shot the new Python. It seems like a good rig but I am partial to S&W and Ruger. My very first handgun was a Colt Trooper MK III 357 mag. I shot that thing until it was plumb wore out. Haven't shot a colt revolver since.

 

[Forum Boss]

Everyone should own a Smith & Wesson Model 617 .22 LR Revolver. That's a given. I have probably shot more rounds through my 617 than all my other handguns combined. It is one of the very best training pistols because it has an excellent (single-action) trigger, excellent sights, and superb accuracy. A 6" model can put all 10 shots in one ragged hole at 10 yards -- easy.

Model 617 10-shot 6" barrel

Model 617 10-shot 4" barrel

Next choice? I'll take a nice .44 magnum, loaded to .44 special velocities. Korth makes superb revolvers. Rugers have a comfortable grip. But again, the S&W is probably the best bang for the buck if reliability and excellent accuracy are top on your list. I've owned 5 Ruger wheelguns. Three had to go back to the factory for various issues.

Special mention: Colt Python -- I haven't shot the new version. But I did shoot a friend's classic Blued Python from the 70s. Great balance, great accuracy, smooooooth cycling and the best from-the-factory trigger I've ever tried. There is a reason Pythons are appreciating assets. Trivia (from Wikipedia): From the 1970s each Python revolver was boresighted at the factory with a laser; the first mass-produced revolver for which this was done.

 

[Sniper338]

Everyone should own a Smith & Wesson Model 617 .22 LR Revolver. That's a given. I have probably shot more rounds through my 617 than all my other handguns combined. It is one of the very best training pistols because it has an excellent (single-action) trigger, excellent sights, and superb accuracy. A 6" model can put all 10 shots in one ragged hole at 10 yards -- easy.

Model 617 10-shot 6" barrel

Model 617 10-shot 4" barrel

Next choice? I'll take a nice .44 magnum, loaded to .44 special velocities. Korth makes superb revolvers. Rugers have a comfortable grip. But again, the S&W is probably the best bang for the buck if reliability and excellent accuracy are top on your list. I've owned 5 Rugers wheelguns. Three had to go back to the factory for various issues.

Special mention: Colt Python -- I haven't shot the new version. But I did shoot a friend's classic Blued Python from the 70s. Great balance, great accuracy, smooooooth cycling and the best from-the-factory trigger I've ever tried. There is a reason Pythons are appreciating assets. Trivia (from Wikipedia): From the 1970s each Python revolver was boresighted at the factory with a laser; the first mass-produced revolver for which this was done.

Im getting a 617, no doubt. I havent seen a revolver I like better yet...

The 357s are a toss up to me. A 44 mag revolver is down the road, ill get a smith. 44 is a fabulous round. I shoot it in a lever gun for hogs.

 

[tomswede]

My M17 22 6in barrel is one of my favorite revolvers. I also have a 6in 586 that I really like. To me the Pythons have never been worth the money ( and the previous generations were very hard to get fixed while S&W were not).

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I have a real tricked out 17 no dash and its no problem hitting anything at 50yds every time you shoot. That and an old original 70’s korth combat magnum are 2 ill have forever

 

[spclark]

I have a couple (Ok, three) K frame 22's. They are damn nice, especially after I cleaned up the cylinders with a reamer so they will eject properly.

Is THAT the problem?

I have one in 22WMR that’s accurate as all get-out but rarely gets shot ‘cause I have to brush each cylinder out before I reload or the fresh rounds won’t seat right.

Had a 22lr model I inherited 25 years ago, then sold.

I’ll regret selling that one for the rest of my time here on Earth.

 

[velocette]

There is not a more user friendly handgun than an S&W K frame revolver. .22, .32. .38, etc.
Easy on the hand, easy to shoot and handle, accurate and totally dependable. Manual of arms is simple and easy. Load 'em down with pussycat loads, load 'em up with Buffalo Bore loads. They can do it all and do it well. Superb for teaching, adequate for defense and ALWAYS reliable, there when you need them.
Right around 100 years of shooters are not, cannot be wrong.

 

[Cecil S.]

I have an old S&W K-Frame 38spl it shoots better than I do...lol. It was dirty as hell when I bought it but cleaned up real nice. Hard to go wrong with a Ruger if your buying new.

 

[Tommie]

Is there a reason to not own a 686?

 

[Twicepop]

Is there a reason to not own a 686?

No there is not. If you had asked the same question about a Ruger GP100, the same answer would apply. I would opt for the 7 shot version of either if available at the time of purchase.

 

[hoz53]

Looks like ill be getting one or two new revolvers sometime soon. Im a s&w lover.

617- 22lr

686, 686+, 686 competitor/performance center are the three im looking at. 6 inch barrel..

OR colt python.. I got an itch for one, fairly similar frame as a 686.

I just need to put my hands on em all..

Ive got a original python and new 686. you can look them over if you want. The worth of the python makes it a non or not much shooter for me. I wonder if eventually enough new model pythons will hit the market to drive the price of the originals down to new model level.. 686 is the better value IMO if you want a gun to shoot alot. I see a 617 in my future to.

 

[Outrider27]

....To me the Pythons have never been worth the money ( and the previous generations were very hard to get fixed while S&W were not).

I bought my Python in 1970 and shot, and shot, and shot it some more. Mixture of 357 case and 38 Special case handloads and factory 357 ammo. Lost count of how many thousand rounds (but over 25,000), and it still does fine. Can't comment on how difficult it would have been to get repaired, as it has never needed repair. And I have never encountered a factory revolver with a factory trigger that was even close to what you got in one of those Pythons. Worth every penny I spent for it - can't remember exactly what it cost, but well under $200 in those days.

 

[drano38]

I've ran several thousand rounds thru a S&W 686+ with a 6" barrel, back when I did a lot of IPSC shooting.
Had 2 trigger jobs done on it, most of the hammer spur lobbed off, reduced weight Wolf springs, front fiber optic. Double action trigger pull was about 6 lbs. It felt great, and I could shoot it quite well. Never had a problem with it.
Cylinder was cut for full moon clips.
A 686 or 686+ in a collection is always a good thing.

 

[tominboise]

Is THAT the problem?

I have one in 22WMR that’s accurate as all get-out but rarely gets shot ‘cause I have to brush each cylinder out before I reload or the fresh rounds won’t seat right.

Had a 22lr model I inherited 25 years ago, then sold.

I’ll regret selling that one for the rest of my time here on Earth.

Yes - Brownells sells the cylinder reamer. S&W chambers them quite tightly, which can cause ejection issues after a cylinder or two. Cleaning up the cylinder eliminated all that. There is a how to thread on the Smith-wessonforum.com forum

 

[snert]

Smith. Simple

 

[357Mag]

Sniper -

Howdy!

IMHO -
If you are a big S&W fan.....don’t get a Python. For someone used to the ‘Smith formula, a a Python rotates backwards. The cylinder release latch is goofy an uncanny to operate.

For your .357Mag, go with the S&W frame size that best fits your hand.
So, yeh..... there might be a reason to not go w/ an “L” frame. They have the same grip frame and back strap-to-trigger distance that “K” frames have. For my hand size, the “N” frame is a better ergonomic fit. YRMV.

A 5” M-27 is a top tier .357Mag, if one can be found. My custom 4” heavy barrelled .357 is based on a M-520 frame. The all-up wt matches that of the 5” -27...... w/ greater ease in concealed carry. I shoot no-kiddin .357Mag loads, and my custom 4” -520 gives me great recoil control

Let us know which way you chose.


With regards,
357Mag

 

[Dusty Stevens]

If we have moved to 38spl now ill say that after a few pythons of various wear a performance center smith 686 has a way better trigger and the ruger match champion will get close after 1000rds or so. I think a lot of people think pythons are so fine because of their price. If you get the right smith & wesson pc model youll know what i mean. And thats from multiple thousands of rounds thru both brands. The smith will run $1200-1500 plus any extra work you want on it on most days. The korth that nighthawk is selling is also a very top shelf rig if you can swing the price. Korth is the best kept secret in the revolver world

 

[jonbearman]

When my Dad got really sick , he gave me his K-Frame .22 and it has less then 200 rounds through it. It is immaculate. What a darned nice revolver. I own a couple K-Frame model 10's and one has a rib on it, aftermarket of course with great sights on it and very accurate. I also have a ,odel60 in .38 special. My carry gun is an older model 39 which is awesome and accurate.I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 617, you wont be disappointed.

 

[Sniper338]

Those korths are NICE looking, but too pricy for using like I would. If I wanyes a target revolver Id buy the korth.

My uses will be at the ranch. Hog trap, snake shot, carry in my leather "cowboy gunbelt". I honestly am considering the 686+ over the performance center. Ive had a PC 460s&w, that PC trigger job is exceptional!!!! But Id be curious as to what some springs and polishing could do to a 686+..