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what would you recommend for proper bullet tension on the 224s

At a member's stern suggestion, I bought the Zediker book on Handloading for Competition. As many noted, his writing style can wear on you! I am over a third of the way through it and still not sure what amount of bullet constriction would be "best" for the different 224s?! For example, right now I have a 22-250 40xb, a Ruger 77 Heavy varmint in 220 swift, a BDL 222, and even a 22-250 A.I. smithed by Penrod. All i.d. dimensions after neck sized or full length sized are between .2185 to .220. I pulled some bullets using the inertia bullet puller from some 22-250 cases and it was not much fun. Years ago I pulled some from the swift and it was even worse! What would you guys recommend from consistent bullet release and then hopefully ensuing accuracy? When I went to Brownells site and looked at neck reamers for Forster, it was confusing to say the least! Zediker recommends reaming after sizing. it looks like Brownells offers reamers for before and after sizing! By the way, most of this brass is fired less than four times and varies between neck sized only or fl sizing. The dies on the 22-250 and 222 are both RCBS. The swift is Redding and the A.I. are Redding deluxe. If you can help from this amount of info it would be greatly appreciated! Tom
 
I use strictly Redding Type S bushing dies thus you can adjust the amount of neck tension using bushings. I generally shoot for .001 neck tension on my paper punchers and .002 for varmint rifles. My sons .223AI BR gun has a loaded round diameter of .250. The chamber is .252. When sizing I use a .249 bushing giving the .001 neck tension. I also anneal after each firing and before sizing. Then I size in 2 different ops. I'll bump the shoulder using my FL Type S die with the guts removed and then use my Type S bushing die to size the necks about 75% of the neck length.

Frank
 
The older the loaded round the stickier the bullets can be. I suspect corrosion gets em. Ive pulled the neck off some 20yr old ppc rounds loaded with .001 neck tension
 
The older the loaded round the stickier the bullets can be. I suspect corrosion gets em. Ive pulled the neck off some 20yr old ppc rounds loaded with .001 neck tension
Use the bushings to get 0.002 interference fit then use the expander mandrel to get a final interference fit (aka tension) of 0.001. Simple.
 
You mentioned looking at neck reamers; I'm not sure where you're headed in that regard but I suggest studying up on neck turning as opposed to inside reaming.
 
You mentioned looking at neck reamers; I'm not sure where you're headed in that regard but I suggest studying up on neck turning as opposed to inside reaming.
I agree with this. Neck reaming is real hard to stay consistent. First off all loaded rounds should be loaded and fired the same number of times. Every time they are fired and sized they get harder. Different amounts of hardness will hurt accuracy.

I also believe full length sizing with minimal shoulder bump Is more accurate.

As loaded rounds sit they bond. To stop the bonding I use liquid graphite in the necks. My rounds can sit for years and they don't bond. If you load a round and let it sit, and try and seat the bullet deeper, it will make a popping sound when it breaks loose. With the graphite in the neck it stops this. When you want to pull a bullet with an inertia hammer, you should first seat the bullet deeper with a seating die to break the bond. Matt
 
At a member's stern suggestion, I bought the Zediker book on Handloading for Competition. As many noted, his writing style can wear on you! I am over a third of the way through it and still not sure what amount of bullet constriction would be "best" for the different 224s?! For example, right now I have a 22-250 40xb, a Ruger 77 Heavy varmint in 220 swift, a BDL 222, and even a 22-250 A.I. smithed by Penrod. All i.d. dimensions after neck sized or full length sized are between .2185 to .220. I pulled some bullets using the inertia bullet puller from some 22-250 cases and it was not much fun. Years ago I pulled some from the swift and it was even worse! What would you guys recommend from consistent bullet release and then hopefully ensuing accuracy? When I went to Brownells site and looked at neck reamers for Forster, it was confusing to say the least! Zediker recommends reaming after sizing. it looks like Brownells offers reamers for before and after sizing! By the way, most of this brass is fired less than four times and varies between neck sized only or fl sizing. The dies on the 22-250 and 222 are both RCBS. The swift is Redding and the A.I. are Redding deluxe. If you can help from this amount of info it would be greatly appreciated! Tom

I’ve found this Zediker book is best read through the first time NOT trying to absorb all that’s said but instead noting where at the different places within the book he touches on each of the various subjects of interest. Once with your own index of the book at hand, you can go back over the material from now on knowing exactly where you’ll need to go to get the whole story on each of the subjects.

'Freak
 
The older the loaded round the stickier the bullets can be. I suspect corrosion gets em. Ive pulled the neck off some 20yr old ppc rounds loaded with .001 neck tension

I have noted this as well...I believe it is from the brass "air hardening". Brass can harden up from working it, which we all know happens right away, but it also just hardens over time. I have some old Remington ammo someone gave me that was new in the box from the 40's...every neck was split and the bullets could be pulled from the case by hand.
I always thought inside neck reaming was just done to get rid of the donut {if it's there}.
To answer the original question: I full length resize, outside neck turn to minimum and anneal...I aint trying to set any benchrest records, but a lot of woodchucks don't like me anymore.
 
At one time it was refered to as cold welding. Some have said to "break" the tensiond of the seated bullet by bumping it with the seating die on old ammo.
 

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