what is the best way to get lead out of a 22 barrel
- Thread starter rebs
- Start date
Actual leading, where it's sticking to the bore, or just lead flakes mixed into the crud?
The former is going to require really nasty chemicals as lead is nearly inert, or mechanical removal: a bronze brush or abrasive. Lead in the fouling, for me that's done with regular use of a bronze brush so it doesn't build up into a problem.
The former is going to require really nasty chemicals as lead is nearly inert, or mechanical removal: a bronze brush or abrasive. Lead in the fouling, for me that's done with regular use of a bronze brush so it doesn't build up into a problem.
I don't normally see actual leading in a 22RF bbl, but nearly all I shoot today are non-copper washed std vel match ammo. And the rifles I'm shooting most often all have custom, hand-lapped, high quality barrels with match chambers.
However, I bought a used Browning marked 52C reproduction sporter online this past winter that was advertised as As-NIB, and it didn't have a mark on it when it arrived. However, after mounting a scope and getting ready to take it out to zero that scope, I decided to push a wet patch through the bore first. Got a nasty surprise when I did, as the bore was heavily leaded from breech to muzzle - had never seen a 22RF bore so badly leaded. I had a bottle of Pro Shot lead & carbon solvent, and used that on a bronze bore brush - it took quite a lot of elbow grease to get the leading all removed, but eventually - as confirmed by use of a Hawkeye borescope - I got it clean. The borescope revealed some unusual defects in the bore, so I had doubts as to whether it would shoot or not. Took it out and put 65rds of a good lot of SK Std+ through it, without getting one single 5-shot group worth a darn. Took it back into the shop, and found that the whole barrel was full of leading again. Cleaned it all out, then pulled the barrel off the action and ran my EPS match reamer in to re-cut the lands in the leade, and the throat looked a lot better afterwards. Put it back on the action, went out and shot it again - accuracy was still lousy, but there was very little to no leading evident. Pulled it off again, and sent it to Krieger Barrels after talking with my usual sales rep about duplicating the factory barrel's contour on one of the straight cylinder blanks they had on hand. When the new Krieger blank arrived, I cut the tenon, threaded it, then chambered with the same EPS reamer, cut the extractor slots, installed it, and took it out to zero the scope and test fire. That did the trick, and that rifle now shoots really well...and it doesn't lead.
However, I bought a used Browning marked 52C reproduction sporter online this past winter that was advertised as As-NIB, and it didn't have a mark on it when it arrived. However, after mounting a scope and getting ready to take it out to zero that scope, I decided to push a wet patch through the bore first. Got a nasty surprise when I did, as the bore was heavily leaded from breech to muzzle - had never seen a 22RF bore so badly leaded. I had a bottle of Pro Shot lead & carbon solvent, and used that on a bronze bore brush - it took quite a lot of elbow grease to get the leading all removed, but eventually - as confirmed by use of a Hawkeye borescope - I got it clean. The borescope revealed some unusual defects in the bore, so I had doubts as to whether it would shoot or not. Took it out and put 65rds of a good lot of SK Std+ through it, without getting one single 5-shot group worth a darn. Took it back into the shop, and found that the whole barrel was full of leading again. Cleaned it all out, then pulled the barrel off the action and ran my EPS match reamer in to re-cut the lands in the leade, and the throat looked a lot better afterwards. Put it back on the action, went out and shot it again - accuracy was still lousy, but there was very little to no leading evident. Pulled it off again, and sent it to Krieger Barrels after talking with my usual sales rep about duplicating the factory barrel's contour on one of the straight cylinder blanks they had on hand. When the new Krieger blank arrived, I cut the tenon, threaded it, then chambered with the same EPS reamer, cut the extractor slots, installed it, and took it out to zero the scope and test fire. That did the trick, and that rifle now shoots really well...and it doesn't lead.
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Hoppes, let it soak for a couple of hours and then use a bronze brush - repeat until the lead is gone.
I recently acquired and older 22 LR that was leaded so badly that you could see the lumps with your bare eyes, no borescope needed, I did the above and withint a few applications the bore was clean and lead free, confirmed with my borescope.
It may be old school but it works.
drover
I recently acquired and older 22 LR that was leaded so badly that you could see the lumps with your bare eyes, no borescope needed, I did the above and withint a few applications the bore was clean and lead free, confirmed with my borescope.
It may be old school but it works.
drover
moondog
Gold $$ Contributor
I've had issues with BiathlonX in all of my 22s. After 150 rounds, I get extremely bad leading. I'm thinking it's the dri lube that's causing the issue. I'm in the process of trying some different spray on lubes, one that's showing very promising results!
Next step is to run 150 through it to see if the lead issue disappears. My lot of BiathlonX shoots amazingly well, I got 3 cases of it. But, to your answer your question, a bronze brush. I just got a bore snake with the bronze brush section that seems to work well. Borescope tells me so.
Next step is to run 150 through it to see if the lead issue disappears. My lot of BiathlonX shoots amazingly well, I got 3 cases of it. But, to your answer your question, a bronze brush. I just got a bore snake with the bronze brush section that seems to work well. Borescope tells me so.
TRSR8
Silver $$ Contributor
No friend, it does not.
The same folks that make WipeOut/ Patch out make No Lead which when you plug and fill barrel, converts it to white, powdery, lead oxide. Works great, very simply.
First time I used this was in my Model 29 shooting 44 special cowboy loads. After a box, the throat was so bad you could not see rifling. After, 2 plug/ soak sessions,that throat looked like it just left the factory. Best $13 you’re ever going to spend.
And what's in Lead Out, unicorn tears? As far as I remember from my GCSE chemistry (high school for US readers), mercury and peroxide come the closest to dissolving Lead. These are nasty. My point was that a regular solvent like Hoppe's won't dissolve Lead; it will dissolve crud around the lead helping a brush, but won't shift lead by itself.
TRSR8
Silver $$ Contributor
Well as I remember from my 7 th grade reading for comprehension course, you’re post stated you needed Nasty stuff, abrasives, and/or brushing.
My post, bast on long term personal experience is “ none of the above”.
Now, you can run a brush through there until your arm falls off or, plug it & let it soak. Your barrel, your choice.
You have some guys at your range showing their age. Absolutely, I've mixed Ed's Red for years. As a chemist, I also use Bore Tech carbon cleaner. Either one of these you must allow to soak for a few hours. Many others will also do the job, just might take more time and brushing. Nitric acid is about the only thing that will dissolve lead and certainly not recommended for a rifle barrel. Peracetic acid, sulfuric acid....but again....do not use. Most of these acids are not attacking the lead, they attack the ferrous metal. As already mentioned, the solvents in all products mentioned loosen everything up so it can be swept out with a brush. Most solvents in bore cleaners will not harm the metal. Hope this helps.
CharlieNC
Gold $$ Contributor
Yes. Retired guys shooting weekdays like me!
JSH
Gold $$ Contributor
I had a lot of experience removing lead from center fire bores when I first started casting. Cause was mostly a LOT of bad advice. Removing it can be a chore. I have used the WO lead remover on a mild case and it worked as advertised, dunno if it’s unicorn tears or Sasquatch urine, but it worked.
Years past I plugged the bore, filled it with Kroil, put it plug end down in a can or bucket. Let it set for a few days. Bronze brush and then a few patches. If not clean soak again.
A 22RF I would almost have to think there was a burr or inclusion of some kind. Guarantee you can not shoot it out. The lead will just keep piling up a move towards the chamber.
Years past I plugged the bore, filled it with Kroil, put it plug end down in a can or bucket. Let it set for a few days. Bronze brush and then a few patches. If not clean soak again.
A 22RF I would almost have to think there was a burr or inclusion of some kind. Guarantee you can not shoot it out. The lead will just keep piling up a move towards the chamber.
And again what is Lead Out made of? Lead is nearly chemically inert, so to remove lead chemically, with no additional mechanical action, it's pretty nasty stuff. That would seem to fall under nasty chemical or mechanical means.
Perhaps your 7th grade teacher can remind you of the difference between you're, the contraction for you are, and your, the possessive pronoun, or indeed how to spell based. Bast was an Egyptian deity. If you're going comment on my reading comprehension in a sarcastic manner please ensure your prose is without sin.
Hi-NV Shooter
Gold $$ Contributor
When I first started shooting RF, I tried Kroil and a bronze brush. what came out of the barrel was silvers of lead when I first saw it, I thought for sure I damaged the barrel with the brush and was seeing metal particles I scrapped off from inside the barrel.
to my happy surprise that wasn't the case, and the results were what I wanted a better shooting rifle. 
I now use a 50/50 blend of Kroil and Hoppes 9 to clean with and have been doing this for 10-years now.
I won't use anything else.
Lee
TRSR8
Silver $$ Contributor
I’m not entirely sure, somebody told me it was ground up Wankers.
About the only time I get any lead fouling in a custom barrel is during the first 100-200rds after reaming the chamber, and it's only a slight bit of leading at that. If I do a little polishing of the leade in a new chamber with 800 grit aluminum oxide lapping compound, I very seldom see any leading at all. I probably should order in some finer AO - like 1200 or even 1500 grit, but I don't get carried away with the 800.
Jeff Porter
Gold $$ Contributor
NO-LEAD Lead Remover — This Stuff Really Works « Daily Bulletin
Made by the same folks that created Wipe-Out™, and Carb-Out™, the NO-LEAD Brushless Lead Remover™ really works. Honest. If you are an active rimfire shooter, or if you shoot cast lead bullets in centerfire rifles and pistols, you should try this product. This stuff was introduced a year ago.
No matter what you end up using, remember your lead removal experiences when you read forum posts about "I never clean my 22 barrel" or "More 22 barrels are ruined by poor cleaning than anything else".
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