What do I need to buy to use Mandrels.

[Art Dirindin]

I would like to give using mandrels a try for setting consistent neck tension and making my case necks as concentric as possible and keeping run out to a bare minimum, but not at all sure how to determine what size mandrels I need to buy. I would be doing this for my Tikka T3 Lite in 300wsm, my Savage 308 FCP, and lastly my rifles in 35 Remington as I hunt with or shoot these rifles most often. Are I correct that mandrels are sized by caliber and not cartridge, or in other words a .308 mandrel will work for most 308 caliber cartridges?

I will also need to confirm if I am correct in assuming this is one of the proper methods of using a mandrel is to first after removing the de-capping pin and expander from my Redding FL resizing dies, full length resize my brass then use the mandrel to enlarge the case neck and set my desired case neck tension.

Lastly for factory rifles chambered for standardized cartridges like the ones I have listed what is considered the preferred amount of neck tension? I'm guessing somewhere between 0.00150 and 0.002" of neck tension.

 

[Ned Ludd]

I use these and have not been disappointed:

http://www.xxicsi.com/caliber-specific-expander-mandrels.html

http://www.xxicsi.com/expander-die-body.html

These mandrels will also fit in the Sinclair Gen II Die body:

https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...ls/generation-ii-expander-dies-prod38807.aspx


In my hands, a mandrel that is .0015" under bullet diameter will give neck tension (interference fit) of very close to .0020", presumably due to springback. Obviously, you need to use a bushing first that will size the necks slightly smaller (.001" to .002") than the mandrel, in order for the mandrel to work effectively.

 

[mike06]

Well I went the cheap route I use pin gages from Suncoast Tools and a Forester Bullet puller get the -minus gages less than $3.00 each.

 

[RedfootRanch]

Well I went the cheap route I use pin gages from Suncoast Tools and a Forester Bullet puller get the -minus gages less than $3.00 each.

How are you going about tapering the inserting end of these pins?

 

[Whisky Tahoe Foxtrot]

F-Class John posted a review of Porter gauge pins and collets.
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?s=porter+gauge+pin&submit=Search


Gauge pins are great for checking case neck inside diameters and neck bushings.
You can use pins to confirm measurements match what the bushing is marked.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

How are you going about tapering the inserting end of these pins?

Put em in a drill against a grinding wheel

 

[mike06]

Put em in a drill against a grinding wheel

yes then fine emomory cloth to make sure no rough edges.

 

[Art Dirindin]

Obviously, you need to use a bushing first that will size the necks slightly smaller (.001" to .002") than the mandrel, in order for the mandrel to work effectively.

Am I understanding you correctly that my FL resizing die minus the expander will not do this I will need to buy a bushing resizing die, or will my standard Redding FL sizing die minus the expander work well enough?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I have the porter precision setup and the pins are around $3. Takes less than a minute to spin em against a grinding wheel. It doesnt have to be perfect

 

[RedfootRanch]

Thanks guys, answered as I expected!

 

[Willie]

Obviously, you need to use a bushing first that will size the necks slightly smaller (.001" to .002") than the mandrel, in order for the mandrel to work effectively.

Am I understanding you correctly that my FL resizing die minus the expander will not do this I will need to buy a bushing resizing die, or will my standard Redding FL sizing die minus the expander work well enough?

You are correct, you can use your FL die to size neck, if you take out the expander ball. The only con is your die neck may reduce the brass neck excessively, resulting in more pressure needed to expand with your mandrel.

 

[South Pender]

I guess I'm missing something here, but what advantage does using a mandrel this way have over first turning your necks and then using a bushing die with the bushing chosen to give you the tension you want?

 

[Jdne5b]

Mandrels are readily available in half thou or finer increments, and is imo easier than neck turning.

 

[Willie]

I guess I'm missing something here, but what advantage does using a mandrel this way have over first turning your necks and then using a bushing die with the bushing chosen to give you the tension you want?

I have tried both ways, both will work. That said, I have drifted entirely to using the mandrels to set final "grip".

Though I turn all my brass, I do get a slight improvement on paper with the mandrel. Actually, a better description is my POI is more consistent.

My thought is that the difference is springback is outward with the bushing and inward using a mandrel. And no, I can't prove that is why I shoot tighter groups using the mandrel.

Another mandrel advantage is that it's sizing the entire neck, therefore pushing all variance to the outside. If shoulder is encroaching the neck, it's easier to control a donut by outside turning again. Just my experience.

 

[swd]

I have the Porter, it’s a great set up. Taper the pin just like Dusty said.

 

[Ranger007]

I use these and have not been disappointed:

http://www.xxicsi.com/caliber-specific-expander-mandrels.html

http://www.xxicsi.com/expander-die-body.html

These mandrels will also fit in the Sinclair Gen II Die body:

https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...ls/generation-ii-expander-dies-prod38807.aspx


In my hands, a mandrel that is .0015" under bullet diameter will give neck tension (interference fit) of very close to .0020", presumably due to springback. Obviously, you need to use a bushing first that will size the necks slightly smaller (.001" to .002") than the mandrel, in order for the mandrel to work effectively.

+1 on 21st mandrels. Zero complaints.

 

[Ned Ludd]

Obviously, you need to use a bushing first that will size the necks slightly smaller (.001" to .002") than the mandrel, in order for the mandrel to work effectively.

Am I understanding you correctly that my FL resizing die minus the expander will not do this I will need to buy a bushing resizing die, or will my standard Redding FL sizing die minus the expander work well enough?

I only use bushing dies and/or mandrels. I remove the expander ball from every bushing die I own. IMO - they're not worth the trouble.

How does your FL resizing die size the necks in terms of the final [desired] neck tension/interference fit? My point was simply that if you're going to use a mandrel as the final sizing step, it is preferable to have sized the necks slightly smaller in the previous step so that the mandrel can open up all the necks efficiently and consistently. If the previous re-sizing step leaves the necks very, very close in size to what the chosen mandrel diameter is expected to leave them, I am not sure it will work as consistently. It might, but I don't do it that way, so I can't say for sure.

I prefer to have the mandrel opening up the neck by at least .001" or .002" from the previous step, rather than just barely opening them up from the previous step. I believe the results are more consistent that way. If your FL die without the expander sizes the necks down at least .001" below what you expect from the final step with the mandrel, it should work fine.

 

[243Mendoza]

F-Class John posted a review of Porter gauge pins and collets.
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?s=porter+gauge+pin&submit=Search


Gauge pins are great for checking case neck inside diameters and neck bushings.
You can use pins to confirm measurements match what the bushing is marked.

The Porter pins and collets work great and he has a great selection on pins and he is fast on delivery.

 

[JohnKielly]

in the .308, I've never gone past a Lee Collet die. I've used them for maybe 20 years now with excellent results & no fuss.