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Way off topic: bent B&S exhaust valve

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brokeasajoke

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For some reason first post disappeared but anyway. Working on an 18.5 single ohv briggs for a not start consition and find that the exhaust valve is bent. Now bent pushrods are common but I cannot seem to find any reason as to why after much searching. I found a whole head for $25 but would like to prevent this from happening again. There seems to be vast knowledge around here. You can see the gap between the valve and seat in the pic. Thanks all.
20200401_175410.jpg
 
Not sure about your specific B&S engine, but I have found many B&S valves stuck open from varnish, oil deposits etc. Your valve may have made contact with the piston. I have caught all mine before they bent the valve. A little top engine cleaner or seafoam etc and work the valve free. Yours needs to be replaced.
 
Like i said, I found a whole head for $25 and a valve costs that. Stuck open, that explains it I'd say. See, bouncing ideas off others is helpful.
 
I rebuilt a B&S once for my dad. Installed new valves.. Had to clearance them to some spec that I don't remember. Not too bad of a job. And it ran after..
 
Not mine. Im helping a friend out. I have started running mobil 1 15-50 (high zinc oil) in my Kawasakis now that they have a little age on them. Before that was Pennzoil 30 for first couple hundred hours. I have one husqvarna rider with a Briggs I paid 500 for. It has like 8 hours on it. I try and refrain from ethanol gas in any of my small engine stuff. I'm satisfied thats what ruined my Stihl ms460 saw and thats a grand (ouch). Nwp big bore kit got it up and running though. My Gravely actually calls for mobil 1 by name in the manuel for the hydro fluid.
 
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Run synthetic oil and good gas and your engine problems will lessen.
What about running some cleaner through or even some tranny fluid to help keep the carbon and gunk down plus the smokes great..lol... I run a little injector cleaner through mine occasionally , my rider is at least 16 years old... Plus I do mix fuel stablizer in every gas can and it has cleaner in it also...
 
What about running some cleaner through or even some tranny fluid to help keep the carbon and gunk down plus the smokes great..lol... I run a little injector cleaner through mine occasionally , my rider is at least 16 years old... Plus I do mix fuel stablizer in every gas can and it has cleaner in it also...

Sunoco 94 and a good synthetic and you won't need any Wally World snake oil additives. :D

If you really want trouble free, burn avgas.:D
 
:) I actually run a little atf in my fuel. I've done the old school thing of dumping atf and water down the carb. I have a can of turbo cleaner I'm going to try on gun carbon one day. I'm no expert but I wouldn't think gas type/quality would affect the exhaust valve as much as the intake. I would think oil quality would be the factor on the higher heat exhaust valve. Thoughts?
 
I run all Amsoil products in everything I own.
Signature oil for cars and truck, small engine oil for mowers and snow blowers, mix for 2 cycle, and there gas additives in everything that comes out of my gas cans. Also put in the Harley, eng, primary & tranny.
I have been using their products since 1996 and have not had a engine or tranny problem since.
 
For some reason first post disappeared but anyway. Working on an 18.5 single ohv briggs for a not start consition and find that the exhaust valve is bent. Now bent pushrods are common but I cannot seem to find any reason as to why after much searching. I found a whole head for $25 but would like to prevent this from happening again. There seems to be vast knowledge around here. You can see the gap between the valve and seat in the pic. Thanks all.
View attachment 1169119
Bad gas, after sitting with old fuel which smells like varnish it will coat the valve stem and bind the valve open allowing the piston to smack it , this is a bi-product of ethanol ,use stalbil if the fuel can not be drained if it is to sit without being run at least twice a month ;)
 
Check YouTube those B&S engines have a tendency to loosen the valve lash adjustment nut.
Mine backed off and I had to readjust it.
Takes a crows foot wrench to get to it
Easy fix
 
Not sure about your specific B&S engine, but I have found many B&S valves stuck open from varnish, oil deposits etc. Your valve may have made contact with the piston. I have caught all mine before they bent the valve. A little top engine cleaner or seafoam etc and work the valve free. Yours needs to be replaced.
+1 for seafoam Or if you can find it a lead gasoline additive lead in the old days gasoline is what lubricates valve guides and valve stem’s now that we’ve removed it there is little to no lubrication in the fuel and results in higher temperatures increase valve wear and the dreaded sticking valve
 
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This common on a lot of b and s engines. The heating and cooling is most of the issue. I’ve seen pics of new heads with gaps u can see daylight though
 
Lead will not completely burn off during combustion and it coats the valve stem and acts as a lubricant With newer fuels that do not contain lead you have less lubricant
 
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