Hey, so I have a savage .308 and I want to get into reloading it to make my rounds as accurate as possible. I have reloaded .223 however that is more of "plinking" ammo. I was wondering where do I need to start? I already have a hand loader for the primers, a single stage loader, and a case a trimmer, and go about cleaning my primer pockets by popping out the primer and running it through the tumbler a second time (good or no). I was looking at Redding Dies and their set of 3 (Micometer Neck Sizing, Body, Micometer Seater) and was wondering do I need all that or need the neck sizing to have the micrometer setting? I want to try and become accurate in my shooting and just want to know where I need to go or what I need to purchase that will make my bullets accurate for my specific rifle. Thank you in advance.
Want to get into reloading for accuracy
- Thread starter Ribz0Rama
- Start date
You have what you need to start. You will add the fancy stuff as you learn. The best thing you can do know is make every round the same.. Just my two cents Tommy Mc..
start with quality brass and bullets...but remember you have a production rifle, and
there are limits.
so which savage ? they make hunting rifles thru target rifles. i have one of each, but
even my hunting rifle has the max "sporter" profile.
what is the scope ?
what distance is your goal, can you shoot at that distance today ?
what do you have for a front and rear rest ?
lots items that control the out come.
there are limits.
so which savage ? they make hunting rifles thru target rifles. i have one of each, but
even my hunting rifle has the max "sporter" profile.
what is the scope ?
what distance is your goal, can you shoot at that distance today ?
what do you have for a front and rear rest ?
lots items that control the out come.
No need to clean twice. Deprime, soak in a Lemishine solution, let dry, then tumbler in walnut media for an hour or so.
Micrometer seater dies are useful when trying different OALs. You can be much more precise than with just adjusting the seating stem. i like, and use, Forster dies. Very accurate.
Get a concentricity gauge to determine if your rounds are coming out straight.
Pay strict attention to dispensing powder. Must be the same round to round.
When buying new equipment don't go cheap. Nothing but frustration and you'll just wind up buying the better stuff down the line.
Keep good records. Even of the rounds that don't work.
Reloading is, in part, about saving money AFTER you have bought the quality equipment.
Micrometer seater dies are useful when trying different OALs. You can be much more precise than with just adjusting the seating stem. i like, and use, Forster dies. Very accurate.
Get a concentricity gauge to determine if your rounds are coming out straight.
Pay strict attention to dispensing powder. Must be the same round to round.
When buying new equipment don't go cheap. Nothing but frustration and you'll just wind up buying the better stuff down the line.
Keep good records. Even of the rounds that don't work.
Reloading is, in part, about saving money AFTER you have bought the quality equipment.
hogpatrol
Gold $$ Contributor
A two die set, full length and seater, is sufficient. Except for specific applications, neck sizing dies fell out of favor a while ago and aren't generally used. Do you have a reloading handbook? The Lyman is a good one for starters. You'll get many opinions on tumbling. Some do, some don't. I clean up fired brass with a scotchbrite pad.
Attention to detail! Make every aspect of reloading as perfect as you can. I think neck turning, good dies, being able to measure, and a good electronic scale helped the most. If you are on a budget, the scale will be pretty expensive. I cried for a while but glad I got one because the groups tightened up noticeably.
For not much money you can get the Hornady tools to measure cases and loaded rounds. An inexpensive Lyman caliper will work pretty well. I measure every loaded round to within .001".
If you have a good cleaning rod (near bore diameter) you can add a couple drill stops and be able to check your distance to the lands. The end of the cleaning rod will need an insert of some sorts so it's flat. Once you find the distance/length of the cartridge with the bullet you are using (and checking each lot for differences), you'll be able to load and vary the distance to see what works for you.
Next a good resizing die. The Forster Bench Rest is good and has a resizing ball that floats so it doesn't pull the necks out of alignment with proper adjustment. The ball can be changed to alter the finished size of the necks. I like about .002" interference fit.
A powder that doesn't change pressure with the temperature is also beneficial. I like Varget. Start with a lower pressure load and work from there. In my .308, Lapua brass, Hornady 168g BTHP Match, Federal Match primers, and 42.0 grains of Varget shoot very well. I run them .025" off the lands. That gives me about 2,550 fps muzzle velocity. I weigh power to within .02 grain which is 1 kernel of powder.
A decent scale is the A&D FX series. It's a little pricy and I also had to get a line conditioner to get it to work right due to electrical problems in the house. Something that will work if you work with it is a GemPro 300. I could stay within +/- .02 probably 95% of the time and never varied over +/- .04 grain. It can also run off battery power if you have power issues in the house. The FX will read exactly the same for me over and over.
With a little work consistent 1/2 M.O.A. should be easily obtainable if the barrel is in good shape if shooting off a bench or a good bipod.
For not much money you can get the Hornady tools to measure cases and loaded rounds. An inexpensive Lyman caliper will work pretty well. I measure every loaded round to within .001".
If you have a good cleaning rod (near bore diameter) you can add a couple drill stops and be able to check your distance to the lands. The end of the cleaning rod will need an insert of some sorts so it's flat. Once you find the distance/length of the cartridge with the bullet you are using (and checking each lot for differences), you'll be able to load and vary the distance to see what works for you.
Next a good resizing die. The Forster Bench Rest is good and has a resizing ball that floats so it doesn't pull the necks out of alignment with proper adjustment. The ball can be changed to alter the finished size of the necks. I like about .002" interference fit.A powder that doesn't change pressure with the temperature is also beneficial. I like Varget. Start with a lower pressure load and work from there. In my .308, Lapua brass, Hornady 168g BTHP Match, Federal Match primers, and 42.0 grains of Varget shoot very well. I run them .025" off the lands. That gives me about 2,550 fps muzzle velocity. I weigh power to within .02 grain which is 1 kernel of powder.
A decent scale is the A&D FX series. It's a little pricy and I also had to get a line conditioner to get it to work right due to electrical problems in the house. Something that will work if you work with it is a GemPro 300. I could stay within +/- .02 probably 95% of the time and never varied over +/- .04 grain. It can also run off battery power if you have power issues in the house. The FX will read exactly the same for me over and over.
With a little work consistent 1/2 M.O.A. should be easily obtainable if the barrel is in good shape if shooting off a bench or a good bipod.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Dont get neck dies get a good set of FL bushing dies.
JSH
Gold $$ Contributor
All of the above mentioned has merit for sure.
You can put together the most perfect ammo there is with all the gidgets and gadgets your heart desires, yet still not reach your end goal.
What is your rifle deserving of?
The ammo has to fit your chamber correctly. So in a bone stock rifle, match/target type procedures may actually make things worse.
Not trying to discourage you.
I have seen first hand folks go into reloading with the thoughts of taking a bone stock gun to exceptionally higher levels. It can be done on occasion.
You can put together the most perfect ammo there is with all the gidgets and gadgets your heart desires, yet still not reach your end goal.
What is your rifle deserving of?
The ammo has to fit your chamber correctly. So in a bone stock rifle, match/target type procedures may actually make things worse.
Not trying to discourage you.
I have seen first hand folks go into reloading with the thoughts of taking a bone stock gun to exceptionally higher levels. It can be done on occasion.
a savage can be an extremely accurate rifle. i built a benchrest savage that shot consistently in the 1's and 2's.
what are your goals with this rifle?
what kind of groups are you shooting now?
what will be the intended use for this rifle?
how far down the rabbit hole do you want to go?
dgeesaman
Gold $$ Contributor
For the dies, I’d start with a Lee collet neck sizing die. Then fire a few cases until they get right in the chamber and send those cases out for a fitted full body die with neck bushing.
The micrometer adjust is most useful on the seating die.
Keep with the other things you’ve got.
Buy quality bullets and stock with one powder in the beginning.
$.02
David
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hogpatrol
Gold $$ Contributor
Just curious, what were all the parts you used for the build?
If you're considering Redding, which are good dies then check out Whidden's dies before you purchase. I do have a Deluxe set of Lee which comes with the collet die, they produce accurate ammo.
savage target action timed and trued by SSS. SSS benchrest trigger. SSS dogtracker stock bedded by Fred at SSS. Shilen select match 28" bull barrel in 6BR.
hogpatrol
Gold $$ Contributor
Ok, I took it you implied it was a factory Savage. Basically it's a custom. Had me wondering there.
Ok, I took it you implied it was a factory Savage. Basically it's a custom. Had me wondering there.
i certainly would not call it custom. not any more expensive than savage's factory benchrest rifle.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
whats this savage benchrest rifle you speak of?
lets see there are basically 4 parts to a rifle.
you had the action reworked..no longer stock
an aftemarket bbl...that had to be chambered...no longer stock
an aftermarket trigger no longer stock
and bedded in an aftermarket stock...no longer stock.
so what part of custom foes not apply.
this is how a entry level custom benchrest rifle is built.
you had the action reworked..no longer stock
an aftemarket bbl...that had to be chambered...no longer stock
an aftermarket trigger no longer stock
and bedded in an aftermarket stock...no longer stock.
so what part of custom foes not apply.
this is how a entry level custom benchrest rifle is built.
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