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Using expander mandrel

josebd

Silver $$ Contributor
I have new .223 lapua brass,never fired,do I just run it in the mandrel and skim the neck if it needs it or do I full length resize it with expander on?

What about once fired brass? What the procedure on that?

Do I also annealed first before doing anything?
 
Lubrication for the mandrel I have on hand is,rem oil,clr,rcbs 2,imperial wax,Castrol engine oil
 
Now comes the question. What are you using to "skim". If you want your thickness to be .012 or whatever throughout the batch (use a feeler gauge to set your turning depth) is the neck loose or reasonably tight on the mandrel for the turner? If not, it is going to wobble like a weeble when turning.
 
Now comes the question. What are you using to "skim". If you want your thickness to be .012 or whatever throughout the batch (use a feeler gauge to set your turning depth) is the neck loose or reasonably tight on the mandrel for the turner? If not, it is going to wobble like a weeble when turning.
How do you use a feeler gauge to set turning depth?
I'm using k&m
 
How do you use a feeler gauge to set turning depth?
I'm using k&m

Back out the cutter enough to let you insert a feeler gage of the required thickness between the cutter blade and the turning mandrel, screw the cutter back in until it touches the feeler gage, slide out the feeler gage. I use a 0.014 feeler gage to turn the necks on new 308 Lapua brass.
 
Ok just got this stuff in
.22 caliber
Pilot .2235
Expander mandrel.2245

.30 caliber
Pilot .3075
Expander mandrel.3085
As I read before after using the expander the brass will spring back some? So am I alright?

Out of the lubricants I listed what would be the best?
 
Got this off of the high road forum
As long as the expander of your choice matches up with your brass and neck turning manual, your good. The expander has to be slightly larger than the neck turning mandrel. .001 over is a good place to start.
 
Got this off of the high road forum
As long as the expander of your choice matches up with your brass and neck turning manual, your good. The expander has to be slightly larger than the neck turning mandrel. .001 over is a good place to start.

Normally the expander mandrel is 0.001 larger than the turning mandrel.
The reason for this is spring back of brass.
If your using new Lapua brass the spring back will be “minimal” because the brass is provided in a correctly annealed state.

What you could do is pass a few cases over the turning mandrel first and see if you have a good fit, meaning that it fits the mandrel without excessive play, but your able to still turn it without a lot of resistance.
If it’s still to tight on the mandrel, then use the expander mandrel and this should give you a proper fit. - The idea is to have a close tolerance fit between the case neck and the turning mandrel, so that there isn’t any noticeable wiggle room while the case is being turned.
As far as lube, of what you mentioned I’d use either the imperial sizing or the castrol engine lube. Use a q-tip to apply it to the inner neck when you pass it over the expander or turning mandrel at first, once you’ve expanded your case necks and are ready to neck turn just a very small amount on the turning mandrel is needed.
I use FP10 oil for neck turning and expanding, I like the viscosity and lubrication consistently of it and it wipes out of the necks relatively easy at the end when cleaning up.
I recommend that you keep turning speed around 200 rpm if your using a power driver type set up.
 
Back out the cutter enough to let you insert a feeler gage of the required thickness between the cutter blade and the turning mandrel, screw the cutter back in until it touches the feeler gage, slide out the feeler gage. I use a 0.014 feeler gage to turn the necks on new 308 Lapua brass.

Exactly that.

For .223 I use a .012 gauge. The gauges are available at any auto parts store. The come in various sizes and thicknesses. Maximum price I have seen is $7.99 for a gazillion thicknesses. I, too, have the K&M tool.
 

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