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Update: A guide to renovating a Bridgeport Series 1 J-Head Milling Machine

carlsbad

Lions don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep.
Gotta do spindle bearings on my old bridgeport this winter. Anybody got an old copy of this manual they aren't using anymore? If so, let me know what you want for it.

thanks, Jerry
 
Re: A guide to renovating a Bridgeport Series 1 J-Head Milling Machine

Try this link http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/machinery-manuals-brochures/bridgeport-student-other-manuals-131255/
 
Re: A guide to renovating a Bridgeport Series 1 J-Head Milling Machine

Thanks Butch but the link has been hijacked. It is a travel site now. --Jerry
 
Re: A guide to renovating a Bridgeport Series 1 J-Head Milling Machine

Contact C&M precision spindle and talk to them about their 5 and 6 pack spindle bearing setups. Worth every penny.
 
Re: A guide to renovating a Bridgeport Series 1 J-Head Milling Machine

230grRN said:
Contact C&M precision spindle and talk to them about their 5 and 6 pack spindle bearing setups. Worth every penny.

Went to their website. Sent them an email. Are you reommending buying bearings from them or sending a spindle to them for rebuilding?

thanks,
Jerry
 
Re: A guide to renovating a Bridgeport Series 1 J-Head Milling Machine

I think Wells Index will rebuild theirs and Bridgeports as well if I am not mistaken. It would be worth giving them a call.

Joe
 
Re: A guide to renovating a Bridgeport Series 1 J-Head Milling Machine

Go to H & W Machine tool rebuilders website. They have a parts kit, and an excellent you tube video on how to rebuild the head
 
Re: A guide to renovating a Bridgeport Series 1 J-Head Milling Machine

I ended up ordering from H&W. They seem to be providing the most support for Bridgeports. Also I called to ask what type of bearings they supply and the lady read me off the box. I bought the sealed bearings by Timken. This will eliminate the once through oil drip.

Pulling the spindle is pretty easy but I wanted to manual to see exactly how the oilers are placed and for a few other things I want to address while I have it down. I ordered it also.

Should have everything in about a week.

Thanks Guys,
Jerry
 
Well. I did the replacement this weekend and it went great, right up to putting the nosecone on the quill. lower bearing completely trashed. New bearings from H&W are US Made Timken/Fafnir. Sealed. Sweet looking bearings.

However, the stackup for the bearings and spacers appears to be about .020" too tall. The nose cone appears to be hitting the outer race of the lower bearing. It won't go to it's designated location. about 90 deg short. I checked the spacers and they are both 1.350" +0/ -.0005. (con someone confirm this is the standard dimension for these spacers?)

The bearing races are all 17.00 mm thick. The old ones were just a bit shorter but that only accounts for about .004".

Everything is pressed together smoothly and well seated with a 20T press (not used to capacity, obviously).

I took it apart, inspected, and reassembled. It went back together exactly the same, so much so that I used the same tab to lock the nut that holds the stack up together on top.

I'm tempted to take .0020 off the nosepiece on the lathe and call it good.

Any ideas?

thanks,
Jerry
 
Call H & W, they can answer the question best.
ON my Lagun, which was rebuilt by the previous owner, the nose cone set screw does not line up with the old set screw hole, It threw me for a loop when I was replacing the key, till I called Lagun and they said that was not a big deal.
 
akajun,
Called H&W and they indeed said it isn't a big deal and that they don't worry about the nose cone not going back to the same place, the just tighten the set screw down on the threads (gently).

I did have them measure a new set of spacers and the stock bridgeport spindle bearing spacer dimension is 1.337" vs the as found on mine of 1.350". (Google searchers in the future who need and find this dimension here, you're welcome.)

So that explains why mine is too long.

I'm going to machine something--either the spacers or the nose. Nose is much easier but spacers is more "stock". Haven't decided yet.

--Jerry
 

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