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Uniform bullet seating depth

I recently purchased factory new .222 cartredges that, upon inspection, I can see bullets that are not seated at a uniform depth. Some show the cannelure almost completely exposed while others show no cannelure at all and others show just a partial cannelure above the rim of the case neck.
Should I determine the optimal bullet depth, as referenced in reloading documentation, and then run these cartredges through my .222 seating dies, or partially pull the bullets as needed, and then reseat them to the same depth?
I have purposely not included the name of the ammo manufacture because I am not sure that this would serve any purpose relative to my question and also because I may be breaking some rule by mentioning a company name.
 
I recently purchased factory new .222 cartredges that, upon inspection, I can see bullets that are not seated at a uniform depth. Some show the cannelure almost completely exposed while others show no cannelure at all and others show just a partial cannelure above the rim of the case neck.
Should I determine the optimal bullet depth, as referenced in reloading documentation, and then run these cartredges through my .222 seating dies, or partially pull the bullets as needed, and then reseat them to the same depth?
I have purposely not included the name of the ammo manufacture because I am not sure that this would serve any purpose relative to my question and also because I may be breaking some rule by mentioning a company name.
Set COL your gun likes. Pay little attention to what the book says. But make them safe. Just my two cents. Tommy Mc
 
Believe it or not....even Sierra matchkings bullets are not consistent. Bullet base to Ogive can be off .004. Bullet base to tip can vary by .010. Bullets are not what they appear to be...although good enough, unless your OCD kicks in. Find better bullets. If your bullets have cannelures....they are plinkers anyway.
 
This is factory ammo right?

Is so, do not try to reseat - with most factory ammo the bullet is crimped so attempting to seat the bullet can create a damaged bullet or a crushed case. I would not try to pull the bullet either and reseat - in my opinion nothing will be gain and there is the possibility of creating more problems attempting this.

Most factory ammo is seated well below the max SAMMI COL so as to accommodate a wide range of rifle chambers.

Bullet ogives vary even with premium bullets. Give the mass production of factory ammo, some variation in overall length and other elements is quite normal. While today's ammo is much better than in the 50's, 60's and 70's, it still not benchrest quality - this is why a most serious target shooters reload. However, for hunting and reactional shooting, today's premium factory ammo is quite good capable of fine accuracy in a quality rifle and in the hands of a skilled shooter.

Bottom Line: With factory ammo - don't attempt to modify it - just shoot it and save the brass in case at some point in the future you decided to start reloading.
 
Thanks to all. Very informative information. I did not know that cannelures make a bullet a plinker. I'm gonna shoot them and have fun with them.
I reloaded .222 for about 20 years as a primo woodchuck round, but got away from this caliber about 5 years ago. Just getting back into it now and building up a supply of components.
When I reload the empty brass I will use the specs I have used in the past when I reloaded .222.
 
Look at a Berger, Matchking, ELD match, various others...no cannelures for a reason.
This thing about cannelures somehow marking a projectile as an unworthy component is a new data point to me and I have been reloading since 1965. And no, I do not consider myself a know-it-all; but I do not understand what the issue is.
Will someone please help a 72 year old understand this cannelure issue?
 
This thing about cannelures somehow marking a projectile as an unworthy component is a new data point to me and I have been reloading since 1965. And no, I do not consider myself a know-it-all; but I do not understand what the issue is.
Will someone please help a 72 year old understand this cannelure issue?
unworthy opponent? I just made a fact based statement that bench/target shooters dont use these. It is evident in the manufacturers bullet lines. I am sorry you didn't pick up on this. Clean air/turbulence..deformation of the bullet.
 
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Did you measure the overall length or just assume that since the the bullet did not appear to be seated in the same place on the cannelure that the OAL was different. Ammo Mfgs. do not trim brass before producing factory ammunition and factory brass is seldom all the same length when new, so crimped bullets may appear not to be the same OAL .
I would bet that measuring you would find the ammo to be within a few thous. of all being the same OAL.

KS
 
This thing about cannelures somehow marking a projectile as an unworthy component is a new data point to me and I have been reloading since 1965. And no, I do not consider myself a know-it-all; but I do not understand what the issue is.
Will someone please help a 72 year old understand this cannelure issue?
What is actually written on your factory ammo packaging - ie, what is the purpose of the ammunition? Most (not all) bullets with cannelures are typically hunting bullets, and the cannelure is a physical aid for crimping - which typically is a safety feature for hunting rounds fed from magazines (to prevent bullets moving under recoil). If your factory ammo was created specifically for hunting, then that would explain it (to me at least) - along with the variation you see in seating. You also did not mention the manufacturer - I would not expect to see alot of variation on prime factory ammo - like Norma or Sako for instance - but if you told me this was S&B or PPU ammo, I would not even blink.

Cannelures do not automatically make a bullet a "lesser" bullet, it probably just indicates another intended purpose - ie, hunting instead of target/long range.
 

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