UltraSonic Case Cleaning

[ricka0]

First I'd like to congratulate Jason on his excellent work UltraSonic Case Cleaning
I just received the HF 1-1/2 QUART STAINLESS STEEL ULTRASONIC CLEANER
A few questions.
1. Why use a beaker? Why not dump the brass right into the SS tub?
2. Because Junk carb/parts cleaner is know to be safe on brass - and it removed 75% - why not start with it,I'll be running the cleaner in the shop so fumes are moot). If you can remove 75% without using an etchant you need less time with the acid.
3. Gunamonth adds valuable information. I believe he is in error on one statement: Keep the cleaning solution cool. In other words don't use hot water to mix up the vinegar solution. -- While it's true a warmer solution speeds the oxidation/reduction & galvanic actions, it also speeds the reaction that cleans the brass. Unless he has information the rates differ, it's a wash,pun intended ).
I do caution the directions specifically warn against using a hot solution,you'll burn up the motor). Using a warm soln for less time should be fine.

I'm testing ultra sonic with a physical cleaning approach that shows promise,just as fast) and has none of the negatives of a chemical approach.

 

[jb1000br]

Rick, Why beakers? -- cleanup, and changing solutions.

GaM - I have some citranox to test, but have not yet.

Alconox was dissapointing.

Still using the Clean and Shiney Proc. here...but will give the Citranox a try whe I get a chance.

JB

 

[Preacher]

I have two ultra sonics that have heaters built right in, so the ruin the motor idea is bogus as far as the ones I have are concerned, and the were not cheap....
Besides that that don't have motors in them..
Any good ultra sonic will have instructions that state.
---DO NOT PUT ANYTHING DIRECTLY ON THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK---

 

[ricka0]

Thanks for the clarification on beaker. Given they do attenuate energy and I'm cleaning up 50 BMG brass - I'll live with the inconvenience to get better energy transfer.

>> the surfactants and emulsifiers work their way under the "dirt". What surfactants and emulsifiers?,BTW, emulsifier is a synonym for surfactant AND they are also temperature sensitive - more reactive with temp increase. The canonical example an automatic dish washer. Water temp is the most important cleaning parameter.).

If you actually had surfactants/emulsifiers ,not found in white vinegar) - they should be applied in another step.

No comment on my Gunk approach? If Citranox has a negligible reaction to the brass, I'll go with it in lieu of Gunk.

Citranox can be used on soft metals such as copper, bronze, aluminum, zinc and magnesium if rinsed promptly.


I have two ultra sonics that have heaters built right in, so the ruin the motor idea is bogus
I have 4 hog water troughs - all with heaters,and they were not cheap ) - heater doesn't imply over-heating. I'm sure they have thermostats to prevent overheating.

ABesides that that don't have motors in them..

I was just reading the directions. Here it is again:

Use only lukewarm water. Excessively hot water will damage the transducer.
Actually the literature sometimes refers to transducers as motors.

and the were not cheap....
I'm looking for a cheap option the rest of us can afford.

1 gallon concentrate makes 50 gallons at 2% concentration.
jb1000br or anyone else -> I can PayPal you 1/2 + S&H if you want to spilt a gallon

 

[ricka0]

Any good ultra sonic will have instructions that state.
---DO NOT PUT ANYTHING DIRECTLY ON THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK---

If that's your definition of good your point is beyond dispute. My instructions state:
Place the article to be cleaned into the Tank of the Ultrasonic Cleaner. Set the Wire Grill,9) over the article to keep it stable during cleaning.

Do they suggest you use a breaker?

 

[jb1000br]

Rick - you missed the part in the article about adding dish detergent to the 50% Vinegar soln.

I mix the deterg. with 1/2 of my target volume of HOT water, then pour the vinegar in to my target volume...this gives a warm, but not hot solution...I run it just as it says in the article...gets 100% clean, every time.

GUNK -- is weird stuff...and leaves the brass dark.

Rick -- let me try to citranox I have, and i'll get back to you on splitting a gallon...

JB

 

[ricka0]

DAILY DOUBLE-TAP That was a very professionally written article.,I even payPal'ed the first time I read it.) Note to administrators - PayPal donations beggen is considered horse and buggy. Ad revenue is the proven way to make money.

Putting something in bold italics doesn't help if the information is wrong.
That we can agree on. I didn't mean to imply every time I quoted incorrect statements the font changes had special power to falsify them. Not that putting Earls,URLs) in bold font does give them some magical power

much of what you've posted is very inaccurate Please point out what I've said is wrong.

JB has convinced me that Gunk is the wrong approach. I'm going to order a gallon of citranox - the stuff is so cheap it's not worth the hassle of splitting.

I even used it with hot water which speeds up the cleaning process.
Looks like we now agree on that issue.

Rick - you missed the part in the article about adding dish detergent to the 50% Vinegar soln.
Yup, I forgot about that. If someone was to go back to Vinegar, they'd probably want to soak/shake with dish detergent for a longer time in a separate step. You could still add detergent to the Vinegar solution, but expose the brass for much less time,than the pure detergent step). It's probably moot at this point as Citranox appears to be a far superior approach.

 

[ricka0]

pollardwater has it for $32/gal. I actually know a guy who works there. He said it's a very hot product right now - no complaints and lots of folks REALLY like it.,he's never heard of anyone using it to clean brass tho :, )
Can't tell you what the S&H is, I'm getting the good old boy discount.

 

[steveyrock]

first let me say this is the best case cleaning method I ever used and I thank Jason for the article he posted.

now that I have cleaned all my cases for every rifle I think I can get by with just the vinegar and soap if I do it every firing.

why make it more complicated? along with added expense. Mine look great with the cheap and clean method after I got the collected stuff off on the first cleaning.